Car Dude

Car dude, did you vinyl wrap the chome on your truck? I noticed it was black instead of chrome. Yea I had the door trim wrapped. It cost like $120 if I remember correctly.

My bad at a quick glance I read BOB instead of 808.

Bob it sounds like you need to be the Guinea pig and tell us how it goes lol. I have been wanting to lower the front of mine about 1.5" since before I bought it late 2018. I also heard the bell techs did not ride all that great so I never tried them. I dont want to go to low in the front because of the limited options for the rear without doing a flip kit and a c notch.

So if the rings are not installed the result would be a 2" drop or so?

My 19 does the same thing. Its been like that since the day I drove it off the lot.

I don't drive a lot of highway miles. I can't say I saw any difference in mileage. I have heard claims of people picking up mpg from a air intake but I have never experienced it from any I have installed.

The problem is even if you can find a 2" lift shackle there still will be very limited travel in the rear. If someone made a good set of 2" dropped leaf springs along with a 2" drop shackle that would keep the rear under the leaf spring and the rear would still have decent travel.

I can relate. In a perfect world I would like to lower mine about 1.5" in the front and 3" in the rear. The drop struts would work on the front but I have heard they don't ride great. The back pretty much goes from a 2" shackle to a flip kit with nothing in between. IHC has a kit that includes a flip kit and a lift shackle but the travel on the rear is compromised so they use airbags to help. Really the whole problem with the rear is the hanger can't be relocated.

DJM and IHC sell 3" control arms which means you definitely will need to do a flip kit to get the back down. It would be cool if someone sold 2" control arms.

How are you going to drop the back? With dropping the front 2" and the back already 2" higher than the front there will be a 4" rake front to back. Even with a 2" shackle in the rear it will have 2 inches of rake which will be more noticeable with less wheel well gap. I have not seen a 2" control arm for the T1 trucks yet. So the spindle or struts would be the current options.

I would be very impressed if they gained 40 hp and 48 lbs from headers only and no tune. Seems a little ambitious.

Awesome truck. What kit did you use to lower it?

I had this same issue on the rear passenger side. I had the dealer look at it and they order another shock. They put it on and I drove home from the dealership and looked up under the truck to see the new shock or see if they replaced both. I noticed the new passenger side shock looked a little dirty. Then I noticed the front seal on the rear end is leaking which is slinging oil on the shock. This was most likely the issue the whole time. I thought the shock was leaking but it was the rear end seal that is leaking.

Definitely didn't make it 50 miles maybe half that.

I had one of my rear Ranchos blow out at 14K miles. They are not great shocks.

It did fire back up when I put gas in. It took a few seconds to prime before it started.

Just a friendly public service announcement do not run your truck all the way to the empty line on the gas gauge. I tried it today and it ran out of gas. I have been driving for over 30 yrs and have only ran out of gas twice in my lifetime so I am not one to push a vehicle to its last drop I usually refill at a 1/4 of a tank or so. Today I was trailering some motorcycles back from a trip and didn't want to stop and ran out of gas about a mile from my house. Luckily most of it is a downward slope so I coasted to my driveway. I figured I would pass this info along so it doesn't happen to you. If I knew ahead of time that the empty line means 0 gas I would have never pushed it. Most vehicles give you a gallon or two buffer at E on the gas gauge, not my truck.

I'm glad to see somebody finally install one. I had a supercharger on my last two trucks. It would be cool if a lt4 charger could be made to fit the T1.

I don't think anyone that did the shim flip put new u bolts or leaf pack bolts on. Not saying that technically you should but I really can't see it being a issue. The factory shim on most trucks were a 2° shim so when its spun the other direction it would be a 4° difference. So if you don't have a shim to start with a 4° should work. .

Man its crazy how far this thread got off topic. I actually opened it to see what people thought of the Stillen product. Then I found myself relating to all sides of the topic. I previously felt the same way about corvettes and that they were over priced for performance. But the weight difference between a corvette and a camaro gives the corvette a good half second advantage in the 1/4 right off the bat not to mention it gets better traction because of the near 50/50 weight ratio. And heck you can buy a loaded out camaro that costs well over the price of a corvette. So the price vs performance is not as big a gap as you would think. Which is originally what this whole debate was about. I fall in the camp spend your money anyway you want. I own a corvette and yes its fast (950 hp) but I drive my truck 90% of the time so why not buy the biggest engine and silly little upgrades to make it as quick as I can. I just hopped up the motor in my golf cart to make it faster just because its makes me smile to push on the gas pedal of most anything I drive and "feel the need for speed".

Shouldn't be anything wrong with purchasing a used one. The price is good also. The only thing I could see that could cause a problem would be the clamps if they were over tightned. Even new exhaust clamps are not very expensive if you needed to replace one.

Does anyone know what PIP stands for? I'm taking my truck in Monday for this issue.

From that picture the back does look lower than the front. Maybe drive it around a few days for the suspension to settle in to see how it looks. You could always raise it back up a little it you need to. I set mine on the 1.5" hole because I wS afraid the back might be lower than I wanted. I like having a little rake.

Its not hard to do. You loosen the u bolts that attach the rear end to the leaf springs. Then there is a bolt that goes right thru the middle of the leaf spring pack. Loosen that bolt and spin the shim from the fat part facing forward to it facing the back of the truck. Tighten everything back up and you are done.