Grover67

What was your transmission doing that was causing you problems? -Grover67

https://youtu.be/J7KM5-oMLm8

Good info

Different pistons and turbo and some changes to the emissions for it

Not sure why your buddy is feeding you this information about the Bilstein's, unless there is more to his story like doing more to his ride than just shocks that caused his issues. I changed just the rear ones out just after I got my AT4 due to crappy stock ones not up to the task of keeping the rear end planted, only thing it changed in ride quality is that it was much better and felt more secure to the road. Decided to do the fronts just before 10,000 miles, was going to just do the 5100's but figured I only wanted to do it once and didn't want regrets with second guessing, so I went with the 6112 setup. Did notice that the ride did improve as I was starting to notice the stockers we starting to feel "different" from new. Rides better and dosen't have that fade away feel in front and is not hash in any way. Most that have driven it compliment on how well it feels and drives. Did it need the 6112 setup, probably not, but no regrets. Buddy of mine bought a 2022 Denali 2500 and switched out his to the 5100's after his wife complained on how bad it felt on bumpy road(its Michigan) and she noticed how much better it felt and rode. -Grover67

Looks like you are all set with that complete assembly. I installed the 6112's on my '20 AT4 but didn't get them fully assembled and did the swap myself and wasn't too bad. They are a very nice setup vs. what was on from the factory, I changed mine out @10,000 miles, and have the 5100's out back. -Grover67

Unless you are getting them from a shop that provided a fully assembled strut you are going to have to pull the dust boot and top hat assembly off your old struts, so you're going to have to compressor the old stuff off and then compress to the new to install them yourself or at a shop to complete the assembly. -grover67

I had the Michelin Aeglis on a couple of my work vehicles and they worked very well also and wouldn't hesitate going with those either. Good luck on your search -Grover67

Might take a look at Toyo Open Country A/T. I changed my stockers out before my first winter up here in Michigan for a set after picking up my '20 AT4. 3-peak rated and did well up here and really impressed how they did in the wet. Very little noise too. -Grover67

Mothers "Back to Black" works well as some of the other similar products. -Grover67

Just a suggestion but next time use a oversize tarp to line the bed

What trans do you have??

The definition of insanity has been applied........

Agree with redwngr and have the same drivetrain other than mine is a '20 AT4. Seeing the same temp other than when towing as it runs a little higher around 200-210f range during the summer from what I remember hauling my pontoon on expressway. -Grover67

Must have changed out your shocks too as the Rancho's are much of the issue with how they ride -Grover67

Curious with these add on's they some of you installed, are they more of a "feel or sound" but not been verified by dyno or drag strip times if they actually add to anything performance wise?? Thank you -Grover67

Rear cover gasket is re-usable, easy job too as I just did mine plus the tranny and transfer case the other weekend. I was going to do the front differental but it dosen't have the re-usable gasket so I'm picking up a new one and then a drain and fill. -Grover67

Really didn't other than what was stated in their ad for it, didn't get much more than that from the gent I spoke with.

I saw it when I did my trans fluid the other weekend, not bad to get to. Mine hasn't had any temp issues but was interested in something like this if it did lower the regulating temp some. My fluid looked real good and didn't find anything on the magnets let alone that black goo thats usually on them, very clean.

Talked with PPE today and they say it throttles at the same factory temp, other than that just a better quality piece than the factory with better flow.

Anyone try this? Good bad ugly on it?? https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/125069000/

Ya did mine along with transfer case and front and rear differential this past weekend. No not hard. Had trans up to operating temp. No drain plug so have to drop pan but had it up on a hoist and had a catch can to collect fluid. Cleaned up pan and reusable gasket and re-installed. Fill plug is on drivers side next to shaft going to front diff. Its a little tight and the plug has sealant on it and takes some effort to loosen. I had put the trans fluid quarts into a jug so I could use a transfer pump to pump the fluid into the trans fill hole until it started coming out. Started it and ran it got up to 160f+ so that the line stat was open and rechecked fluid level. About 7qts. Done

How many miles on it when you did the change? Just did mine today and it has the 10sp also, fluid looked good and pan very clean and nothing on magnets. Wouldn't worry about the filter unless there was something that it would be a cause to change it. Did it with a buddy of mine that works at GM's testing facility. Fill plug is a bit of a pain due to its location close to the front drive shaft, need pump to transfer oil back in as its tight. After adding fluid back in need to get fluid back up to temp to allow line t'stat to open and check fill hole if need to add or drain. Mine took right around 7qts.

Check out the Toyo AT/3's. They have done real well all around and are 3 peak rated for weather up here too.

Check between the front of door where it meets the front fender, might be some sound deading material separating it. Check the bottom area, in the fender, to make sure there is nothing blocking the drain hole. You'll find the sound deading material probably wet too.... -Grover67