Rob Mugs

This is why I didn't buy a Ford. Apples to apples, the Ford costs way more

I understand it sounds more like a helicopter. I have an S&B intake (noisy) and my flapper removed. I don't hear this

Well, I'm a piss-poor tester. Didn't try to see if it was working (sat several hours) before doing this but snugged those down to make sure no pixies were escaping and voila. Radio now chooches again. Hoping that was all it was. Thank you!

Anyone had this happen? Fire up the truck, Chevy logo appears for a solid 15 seconds-->black screen. No audio, no nothing. I'm not one to complain, I understand "shi* happens" but broken tailgate, blown motor, and now a busted stereo and I haven't hit 3200 miles. They want to hook it to a Tech2 but anyone know of a way to FDR this thing without that? Don't want to spend 30 minutes driving there.. 30 back.. and an hour waiting

I tried asking around here a bit and didn't really hear much back. That said, I have done EVERYTHING to get the Viofo A129 Pro to play well with the TPMS and Key fob. It will work for a bit and then TPMS sensors fall off. (ie, it usually can handle trips under 15 minutes). This ONLY applies to using the rear camera. If you want front-facing only, it's fine I relocated the USB cable I tried a heavier cable I added ferrite chokes I went as far as lining the cable in foil Some helped, but nothing made it foolproof. It would die out on longer trips. If you Google it, it's a common issue among several vehicles. Just a headsup. Overall, it works great otherwise

Yep... It'll be good until there's 1,000s of 10 mile wide craters in the Earth and then tree huggers will cry about that. I don't mind progress but this is a ways off. We still need to use carbon based fuels to charge, windmills are a HUGE waste of resources that end up in landfills....and solar simply isn't even close yet (despite what the 10s of thousands of start-ups tell you).

Side note... I was questioning why it would be such a large driver with ~24 pins when I originally posted. After a few cervezas and making a post about pulse width modulating some of our lights, I realized why. The DRLs and lowbeams/headlights are likely run off of this (way too cold and dark to check). In addition, the DRLs are PWM so the circuitry involved is likely large and they need to contend with heat, in an engine bay, for the life of the vehicle. I'd bet the farm this is a SET of drivers for the headlights, turn signals, and DRLs

And I was partially wrong. After a few cold ones, I realized I could use my camera's slow-mo to confirm. DRL is PWM all of the time as shown. Tails are not, or if they are.. they're faster than 240 FPS. I clicked the unlock button just to show the brake lights as well. Note: the brightening/dimming is the camera trying to adjust. It's not indicative of PWM I would overall, bet a couple hundo that the rears are NOT PWM

I can NOT give you a definitive answer but I can say that the DRLs in our trucks flicker during the day on camera. Similar to old halogen based GMs with DRLs which definitively used PWM to dim them in the day. ie, my 99 Tahoe did this and could be seen on an oscilloscope A quick run outside showed me that this doesn't seem to happen at night with my DRLs on either my POE cams or mobile device which is 30 fps and 60 fps respectively I can also say that the brake lights vs running lights activate two separate sets of LEDs as opposed to using PWM for brightness. Also, no flicker noticed on camera So, my edumacated guess would be that no, the brake lights/running lights do not use PWM. If you can find someone with a scope, it'll show you with 100% certainty though

Appears that is what I have here though. HAS to be the driver for the 3 LEDs and however many go into the DRL

Those part numbers come back to a Ford Edge for every listing except for that one.

Was just arguing the semantics really. No such thing as HID LED Wonder if the unit shown above is the LED driver? I have the midnight package so need to head out to my truck later and look

LOL... I edited it to note my realization of that. It's been an 18 hour day. LOL

Absofreakinglootly lied, or, quite possibly, doesn't know the difference HID uses Xenon gas for the path of the arc between two tungsten electrodes. There is no filament like a typical incandescent light (eg halogen bulbs). There's a ballast that provides a high voltage "wake up" LED uses a diode. A little bit more complicated but a quick Wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode The easiest way to tell without popping the hood? Turn it on. Does it have a flash of brightness and then slowly warms up? That's an HID. If it's all-on from the get go, it's LED EDIT: I didn't notice the "laser" part and maybe my brain has been reading code too long and took this as serious LOL

That advertisement must have been written by a 16 year old that didn't know the difference. HID/high-intensity discharge and LED are two very, very different types of light. The new models have 2 options. LED or Halogen. That's it. There's no HID LED

That's like saying an Apple or an Apple Orange. HID is High Intensity Discharge. They create an arc inside of a gas (usually xenon) LED uses well, an LED. There's no such thing as an HID LED The older technology (still in use) is incandescent halogen where a filament is burning The new vehicles have either Halogen (incandescent) or LED (light emitting diode)

You'd have to do a bit of digging but you won't be the first to install this without the flash.

I have an S&B and many have 3rd party CAIs that flow way better and they don't require the flash. I'm not 100% on what all the flash includes but feel it's more related to the air filter change interval than A/F mixtures which the truck can easily adapt to.

No worries about the reprogram/not required

Mine was in gest... I usually just give em a quick "hey.. these are my normal beams.. here are my brights" notice. Not worth the road rage from either side

I have an Imalent MS18 in case the didn't get the message

I've been contemplating pulling mine apart and physically moving the LED over so it's on top of the hole instead of offset. The LED itself is almost an inch off to the side and then has a big plastic lens that directs the light at ~45* angle I'll probably debate doing this for a year or two and then next thing you know, end up in a new truck that hopefully has this fixed already

Only time I mind if someone flashes me is when it's a man

Here is a perfect example. Lawsuit filed in 2015. Facebook lost It is now 2021 and they'd all get 350 or so bucks mid-summer IF they don't appeal. If they do, it could be years https://www.thetelegraph.com/news/article/Illinois-Facebook-users-in-class-action-suit-15882912.php

How is it formatted? I have a 256 gig formatted in FAT32 and works perfectly.