asilverblazer

Again, by whom?

Alright I'll bite, what is YOUR trailer speed limit? And you've based it on what? We've all acknowledged that tires can fail - even "2 1/2 years old, with maybe 5k miles on them. Ambient temperature low 50's speed 60-65 PSI was correct and they weren't overloaded" Would your magic speed limit have prevented the above? Nope. So us drunk cowboys will carry on in our own safe and prudent manner while you look down your nose at us when we pass.

Since no one here knows the actual speed rating of the tires on the trailer or their brand and quality. Your condescension and holy than thou attitude is uncalled for. HOWEVER, the tires just replaced off my trailer "Ridgway" are about 2 1/2 years old, with maybe 5k miles on them. I've had two blow up now. Ambient temperature on the last one was low 70's and low 50's on the first. Speed 60-65 on the first and 70-75 on the second. PSI was correct and they weren't overloaded or over sped. Point being, these off-brand, no-brand, whatever brand trailer tires are junk. Hopefully the Goodyear Endurance are better - they sure cost more.

This is accurate, and depending on the length of the trailer will alter how much gets picked back up by the trailer with weight distribution bars engaged. Tandem axle trailers usually have an equalizer so that both axles carry the same amount of weigh at all times. Some - do not, usually ones with torsion axles. Without an equalizer the trailer must be dead level (regardless of weight distribution) for the axles to be evenly loaded. In addition, traversing steep roadway transitions, can temporarily unload one of those axles (where either the lead or tail axle's tires are off the ground) to the point where the remaining axle, including tires, springs, etc. is overloaded. Engaging weight distribution systems 'distributes' the tongue weight (I think of it as the amount the trailer jack lifts when hitching up) across "three" axles: 1. Tow vehicle front axle 2. Tow vehicle rear axle 3. Trailer axle(s) Since some of the tongue weight gets put back on the trailer when engaging weight distribution, the final weight put on both axles of the tow vehicle is less (fractionally) than without weight distribution.

Check fuses?

Well which is it? Slamming on the brakes to correct a fish tail, a new expert technique from the autobahn cruiser. Hmmm... I may be from Oklahoma but we've never had fishtail proof snow here. We all better start watching out, without the proper experience and training from your truck may also be susceptible to wild uncontrollable fishtailing Puhleeze... the ditches everywhere must be littered with these trucks. You are literally the one person this happened to... I'll give you some extra just in case the others this happened to don't use the internet - a hundred fair? Out of what millions... including every sort of lousy driver known to drive. Obviously, these trucks are the problem. No. You lost control of your truck on a washboard road.

It was a "we owe" from the dealer I bought the truck at... I think they billed $350 give or take.

This guy... its a simple function of harmonic resonance, the list of variables to induce it is long; from the trucks wheelbase, spring rate, tire pressure, to speed, bump height and spacing, etc. All similar trucks will experience it if the right variables are met. Look up an old video on youtube about bed bounce. Its a comparison of trucks all traveling down a straight road at probably 35mph and they are all over the road, (including your F150 contrary to them trying to tell you otherwise) left unchecked it could lead to a fishtail. You losing control of your truck on a washboard road does not mean that the literally hundreds of thousands of these trucks are violently careening off the road for no reason what so ever and through no fault of the driver is ridiculous.

Dealer only for my FOB replacement. ...and it took them 3 hours. The truck's blah blah blah module needed to be updated in order to program a new FOB.

Its so easy to put more than 1/2 a ton in the bed of a 1/2 ton truck though... if it fits it ships.

Check the bulbs.

Look out there Pot. I'm not gonna ignore you though, I like a good laugh.

Great ride, poor payload.

The only thing left that might be 'simple' is check all electrical connections to the transmission. If it is not a mechanical failure that requires rebuild it is an electrical issue that a more sophisticated diagnostic tool should uncover. In any case, I would expect a significant number of dash warnings... in other words, if you don't see anything external, its going to need to go to a shop.

I think he is implying that the rear wheels are slipping... 11's

Operating the vehicle contrary to what is described in the owners manual is not covered by warranty. Lead foot much in the 6.2?

Does the check engine light function at initial start up? What does this mean? The gear selector cannot be put in the reverse position? If put in the reverse position what does the gear indicator do? Does the lever go into reverse and the indicator indicate reverse but nothing happens? So far I'd expect a torque converter and transmission rebuild is in order. Does the truck otherwise start and run fine? Mileage on the odometer? Any grinding or other odd noises?

While you are gathering pertinent information, check engine light ought to be on, so get a code reader and see what codes come up.

Did he though?

I sued a Draw-tite on mine, the front clips are different obviously and I had to cut an opening in the bumper valance... but it is way higher and less likely to get stabbed into the dirt. Wondering if one that was higher was available for the newer trucks?

FYI: I installed the Draw-tite on my truck. I don't think it will cause any approach angle issues. At least the hitch won't, of course, anything in the hitch might. Hardest part of the install was cutting the bumper valance neatly. A second person on hand helps to wrestle it into place. Draw-tite 65078

What issue?

Well you are on a GM forum - The Ranger better be CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP before I'm interested. 4x4 Rangers aren't as common around here, to get one with any kind of power you need the 4.0 V6, and MPG on those aren't good, compared to a GM V8. So for me, a 4.0 V6, 4x4 extended cab Ranger has to be around $5K or I'm stepping up to the 5.3 V8, 4x4 extended cab Silverado/Sierra. The Ranger just isn't worth more than that TO ME.

I don't mean to discredit you, but my experience with this line was... 'disappointing'. I actually find it difficult to 'see' a quality difference, particularly among OEM type/style replacement parts. They should all be the same size and should be of the same design. The only differences could be metallurgy, maybe different grease, synthetic or rubber blend, maybe a different type of plastic. I think it applies more to these types of parts too like a tie rod end; in my mind how 'different' can they be?

The best way is a taller kit, most of those top out at 6" though... once you go outside kit territory it's custom fabrication. Definitely something best left to professional shops. However, depending on the kit... it could be possible to combine some lift components to gain an extra inch or two. If the original lift kit raised the truck by lowering the entire suspension and DID NOT include any type of lift by torsion bar adjustment or spindle swap then you could add a little more by using the torsion bar keys. After looking at the what is on Rough Country's web site, with out a careful comparison to factory parts its hard to say exactly where all the lift is coming from. I suspect it comes from a little torsion bar adjustment from the "non-torsion bar drop brackets", spindles, and dropped cross member. The kit's geometry is altering CV-shaft angles and already includes a spacer to avoid over extending the shafts. They include this interesting verbiage: "to reduce cv angles and SIMULATE factory angles". I think this means they have increased the angle from factory, but they have reduced the angle from what it could be by other lift means. All the above to say: You could add some additional with torsion bar keys or cranking the adjustment bolts up. This will increase ball joint stress and wear and CV-shaft stress and wear. How much further you can go is determined by what compromises you want to make for longevity, ride quality and reliability.