asilverblazer

I think it is overpriced myself, but it's about the only consumer option available.

I wouldn't be surprised at that outcome either. Fortunately for me my circumstances/uses rarely involve high center of gravity loads in the truck bed. Most uses are only loading the truck at much lower points (goose neck, or bumper pull). The threat of sway (roll) is much less compared to the slide in camper use. It's hard for me to quantify how much sway (yaw) being induced from trailers might be prevented from the use of a dedicated sway bar. A fifth wheel hitch would also be an interesting comparison where the trailer could induce more sway (roll) on the truck due to its higher connection compared to a gooseneck since it would have more leverage. Other thoughts, on my truck the airbags mount in the same location as the factory bump stops. Those points have to be engineered to accept some type of loading/impacts, but I have absolutely no way of determining what that number might be compared to what the air bags might be putting in those same locations. This is one of the reasons I left the auxiliary overload spring pack in place so that if I am loading the truck beyond the capacity (PSI my system is capable of putting in the bags) of the airbags they are still in place as a backstop. More simply, I really don't anticipate a high enough payload on my truck to be concerned about the frame.

BSI Manufacturers them. If you look them up through gms parts site and scroll down you will see that they have a "limited lifetime warranty, parts plus labor". Good luck finding a dealer to honor it though. That lifetime warranty only covers labor for 2 years though. I was able to get only one dealer in my area to warranty my parts but still charged for labor which was stupid expensive and I otherwise would never have paid it. But now I have another 2 years of complete warranty for what I would have paid for the parts alone. Last time I looked rockauto had the best price at around 450.00 per shock/strut (factory ones, with the warranty). GM Genuine Parts Front Shock Absorber | 84977478 | GM Parts

I recently posted about my airbag setup. Generally, I wouldn't add air bags - and certainly not Timbrens (or other fancy bumpstops). Also, notes about a rear stabilizer bar. I wouldn't mind a disconnecting rear stabilizer but not a fixed one. The rear is really the only axle articulation available and I wouldn't want less for off-road purposes.

Getting back to your problem vs. how the system is engineered. It sounds like at the temperature set point you started feeling cold, why not raise the temperature set point? As I stated earlier, if I use this set point my truck seems to more readily try to cool me. GM has for a long time now assumed you want heat from the floor and cool from the dash. All my AUTO climate controls have behaved this way as far back as 93.

Try replacing the sensor.

Long story short - I bet it's the switch.

C1117 00 The K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary detects a short to ground, open or a short to voltage on the redundant manual apply signal circuit. The K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary detects an open on the low reference circuit. C1117 00 The manual apply lever located on the trailer brake control panel is disabled as long as the fault is present. The trailer brakes will still apply when using the vehicle’s service brake pedal. The driver information center will display a Service Trailer Brake System message as long as the fault is present. Circuit/System Verification Ignition ON. Verify the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed in the driver information center If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed and the customer’s trailer is connected to the vehicle Disconnect the customer’s trailer. Verify the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed in the driver information center. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed after disconnecting the customer’s trailer, the circuit fault causing the DTC to set is located in the customer’s trailer wiring harness. This is not diagnosed in service information, nor is it covered by GM warranty. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed after disconnecting the customer’s trailer Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is displayed and the customer’s trailer is not connected to the vehicle Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If the Service Trailer Brake System message is not displayed All OK. Circuit/System Testing Ignition OFF and all vehicle systems OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch. It may take up to 2 min for all vehicle systems to power down. Test for less than 10 Ω between the low reference circuit terminal 8 and ground. If 10 Ω or greater Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. Test for less than 2 Ω in the low reference circuit end to end. If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω, replace the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. If less than 10 Ω Ignition ON. Test for 4.8–5.2 V between the 5 V reference circuit terminal 3 and ground. If less than 4.8 V Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. Test for infinite resistance between the 5 V reference circuit and ground. If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to ground on the circuit. If infinite resistance Test for less than 2 Ω in the 5 V reference circuit end to end. If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω, replace the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. If greater than 5.2 V Ignition Off, disconnect the harness connector at the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary, ignition ON. Test for less than 1 V between the 5 V reference circuit and ground. If 1 V or greater, repair the short to voltage on the circuit. If less than 1 V, replace the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. If between 4.8–5.2V Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary, Ignition ON. Test for less than 1 V between the signal circuit terminals listed below and ground: S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 4 S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 5 S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 6 If 1 V or greater Repair the short to voltage on the circuit. If less than 1 V Ignition OFF. Test for infinite resistance between the signal circuit terminals listed below and ground: S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 4 S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 5 S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 6 If less than infinite resistance Repair the short to ground on the circuit. If infinite resistance Test for less than 2 Ω between the signal circuit terminals listed below: S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 4 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 20 S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 5 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 18 S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch signal circuit terminal 6 and the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary signal circuit terminal 21 If 2 Ω or greater Repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω Test or replace the S76 Trailer Brake Control Switch. Verify the DTC does not set while operating the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. If the DTC sets Replace the K38A Chassis Control Module-Auxiliary. If the DTC does not set All OK.

I've always assumed it was completely manual operation if the "Auto" light isn't on. I think this is like a general setting - in my case I don't like to hear the fan blowing real hard, and only on the hottest days do I want to increase the fan speed manually. In automatic mode it uses a 'slower' fan speed vs. where some might like more air flow and a 'faster' fan speed. I don't think this setting otherwise changes how the climate control operates beyond a baseline fan speed that the climate control works from.

I've found that there is a fine line between the truck thinking you need to be cooled versus warmed. In the summertime I am usually able to set the temperature below 72 and it functions as expected. In the winter time I set it at 74 and results are as expected. I notice that I cannot leave it at the 72 degree setting, because it continues to perform like I need to be cooled. Summer temperature setting 70 winter setting 74 - and this keeps me comfortable. The only time I fine tune the temperature is after several hours of driving like on a long trip, where up or down 1 degree seems to perform well.

I don't disagree with the definition(s). The very fine distinction I am making is between being cheated such that you are owed something in recompence. More specifically, as it relates to the discussion with johnnyquick. My opinion remains: buying a new truck from GM with all its warranties, maintenance requirements, etc. does not guarantee me an engine that will last beyond the warranty period. If it fails at 60,001 miles - I WAS NOT CHEATED. It goes back to what 'legal' obligation did GM fail to perform? There might be other extemporaneous circumstances, willful negligence, denying know issues (the oil consumption note johnnyquick made would be an example). We might also have a 'reasonable' expectation the product last longer than the warranty - determined via law suit - until then, so sorry, the engine failed. But you weren't cheated. And yes, I would be angry upset and mad if my engine failed at 60,001 miles because I have the same expectation that it should last longer. I readily acknowledge that GM has disappointed many with these flaws, but I am drawing a line that GM doesn't owe anyone anything for that 'disappointment'... Until a court of law finds otherwise.

Technically it takes X amount of energy to Y amount of work, the only thing that changes is the efficiency in the system. At a certain point that efficiencies effect is lost. To my knowledge an 80000 18-wheeler is getting 6ish. Compared to me at 16000 getting 9 and at 8800 (unloaded) getting 18-20. If you charted that 'curve' it would less like a curve and more like a wall or cliff. There are only so many units of energy in each drop of fuel whether its gas or diesel.

This rabbit hole might go pretty deep. I WANT businesses to behave morally (this means different things to different people) but a business is NOT a person that can have a moral compass. Instead, it is led by or has individual members within that may. Courts can and do decide if you were cheated including if you are owed something resulting from it. In your example, it is not an interaction between an individual and a faceless corporation, it is between two humans, each with their own moral compass. Which, I personally view a little different than the situation at hand and I personally put more onus on the seller in this case to conduct themselves honorably. Additionally, your example illustrates better a gentlemen's agreement compared to the extensive legal documents, including disclosures, warranties, obligations, recourse, etc. involved with a vehicle purchase. The bold portion above I think has other merits that would be probed more carefully in court than this hypothetical situation warrants - but it would be established whether the seller knew and tried to deceive you. If those turned out to be true, I doubt you would lose. However, it could be surmised that if you did lose - then you were in fact NOT cheated. Law is not governed by feelings or morality. BEING cheated and having legal recourse as a result of that is not the same as FEELING cheated. In this case, until a trial establishes all the facts, actions, deceptions, deficiencies, failure to perform, neglect, etc. Feeling cheated does not mean the other party is liable.

I posted this recently: My 1999 1/2 ton 4.8 2wd, 1999 1/2 ton 5.3 4x4, 2007 1/2 ton 5.3 4x4, 2015 1/2 ton 5.3 4x4, 2016 1/2 ton 6.2 4x4 and my 2018 1 ton diesel 4x4 all get 9 mpg towing: Large pontoon boat 2 horse trailer 3 horse trailer 27' travel trailer 35' travel trailer 16' utility trailer with tractor, loader and implements 22' gooseneck car hauler with cars 16' utility trailer with hay My Dad's GM's and father in laws Fords all do the same too.

Good luck.

Seems weird a coax can't carry a video signal 20ft even HD.

New information, and I can adjust my opinion accordingly... An engine with a documented history relative to the failure is worthy of further consideration in the event of a failure after the warranty expired - to an extent. Should - not shall. This is the same point we keep coming back to, just because we think it SHOULD doesn't make the manufacturer liable to make sure it does. That's funny. Then take GM to court and find out how reasonable your expectation is. If I were to bet on the outcome, it wouldn't be in your favor. I would be sure to include that in your suit against GM. I agree, there is an entire courts system ready and able to determine, whether your expectation regarding the longevity of your engine is reasonable and that GM should pay for it. A recall already exists for certain ones. You weren't cheated and GM doesn't owe you anything. Until a court of law finds otherwise.

Generally agree but if the truck is under 30K miles, I can't imagine normal wear and tear or worn out parts being the culprit. Defective, abused or missing sure. Without obvious signs of those though, it might be getting used to an HD truck.

I would start with shocks. Bilstein (5100) are highly recommended by others, including myself. This is relatively cheap and directly addresses your concerns. Maybe stabilizer bar improvements. It should perform similarly to other rear leaf sprung trucks. The torsion bars won't make a substantial difference compared to other trucks. The term "float" might be too ambiguous for internet (my) discussions, try being more descriptive using other terms and describing the type, severity, frequency, etc. of motions. Leaf springs don't wear out in 25k miles. Maybe 250K. The factory shocks aren't the best regardless of brand but also don't expect a huge difference either - refer to my comments above - if the suspension isn't moving the shocks aren't doing anything (good or bad). The springs on an (any) HD truck are very stiff and won't compress easily compared to a half ton. Agreed.

I'll remain skeptical of the 'greatly improved ride claim for a few reasons: 1. Ride is subjective - what is 'better' to one may be 'worse' to another. 2. People that spend considerable amounts of money to 'improve' the ride are going to be inclined to say they succeeded - regardless of actual results. 3. A layman will never be able to invest the time resources or knowledge into re-designing the factory suspension with any chance of improving it. I agree there is an opportunity for increased travel to allow the shock absorbers more time to influence the action of the springs. Will it be enough? You might gain an additional 1" of full jounce travel for a total of maybe 4". On an average drive - how often is the suspension jouncing more than 2"? So will you be able to take advantage of the additional travel - not without decreasing the spring rate - which you aren't planning on doing. That also all applies to rebound travel too. Adjusting the torsion bars and/or adding keys only changes the knuckle's position in relation to the factory bump stops. It does NOT change the spring rate - unless you crank it so far that you are pushing the suspension against the stops. Even changing the shocks will have little impact if there is no movement in the suspension. Because there is no motion for the shock absorber to absorb. Do you know how much the suspension is compressing and rebounding? As noted earlier, your plans will not be changing this. Regarding the rake, its actually quite a bit simpler. The higher rear exists only so that when the truck is loaded it would appear to level out. The body can be set around the chassis however the designers choose - which you see in the difference between the GMC and Chevrolet. This aesthetic function can disguise an actual engineering intent. Ideally the truck would sit halfway in its suspension range of motion at all times; but that isn't possible given a loaded truck would be too low and an empty one is too high. The result is the empty truck sits high, because someone might load the truck and it has to be able to carry that weight. Raising the rear of the truck via blocks to solve an aesthetic concern would have little impact to the suspension's performance. (Ignoring possibly overextending original shocks or crushing an extended one) What improvements do you see that you trying to replicate?

Not my car, just one I'm servicing for family. Good to know.

Why are you raising the front? Its sounds like you are spending a bunch of money to correct the resulting problems from lifting the front and 'wishfully' improving the ride at the same time. Especially since your concerns seem to stem from the rear - at least that's what you talking most about. The trucks are very heavily sprung - and the jounce bumpers in the front (on the lower control arm) are not strictly bump stops but have a role in suspension too.

I am ignorant and oblivious to the Gm Ecotec I-4, however, I'm working with an Ecotec LE5, in a relatives car. (2008 Saturn Sky, base model, automatic with about 90k on the clock. reasonably regular oil changes at any quick lube joint.) Where is your Dizzy experience documented for review? What else is it based off... I'm trying to find where all the gremlins of this I-4 hiding? I've done a VVT solenoid on it and a vapor canister replacement (along with fuel delivery clean out and inspection). It has a very coarse idle (not missing) gravely, growly, but otherwise runs well enough, gets decent mileage. Not very powerful at top end.

Ditto, makes you realize how poor the factory camera is.

Noticed that too - but since I kept my factory HVAC controls and rarely adjust them, it hasn't been something that concerned me.