Jump to content

Cover Plate For 3rd Brake/cargo Light


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all. I'm having a heck of a time finding something for my 98 GMC Sierra, and am hoping to find some resources by posting my question here.

 

I recently purchased a snug-top camper shell for my truck. I purchased the camper shell to alleviate having to use a tent while hunting/camping. Unfortunately, the 3rd brake/cargo light lens on my truck is hampering the correct fit of my camper shell. The extruded 3rd brake light lens hits the forward end of the camper shell, and consequently, the rear door seal is not flush with my tailgate. Currently, the camper shell is sitting too far rearward, by almost an inch. If you've ever owned a camper shell, then you already know the horrors of how much dust/dirt can enter the bed of your truck while driving dirt roads. In order for my camper shell to fit correctly, I'll have to remove my 3rd brake/cargo light. Doing so will permit the camper shell to move forward enough so that the door seal will be flush with my tailgate.

 

After wasting untold hours searching the web, I'm having a heck of a time finding if anyone makes a "cover-up kit" for my 3rd brake/cargo light? I've found several brushed aluminum and chrome billet lens "covers", but this is not what I'm needing. I need to remove my 3rd brake light lens altogether, and cleanly cover the hole. Sure, I could just use duct tape, but I'm just not redneck enough to live with that type of set-up. :thumbs:

 

Does anyone know if GM (or any aftermarket companies) make a cover up kit for a 3rd brake light? Sure seems like one should be available? I'm about to stroke out over this little ordeal, but only because archery deer season in Arizona starts in 4 more days! If anyone knows of such product, please - share where I can get one. Thanks...

 

ThunderDan

Posted

I dont know of any.

 

Just get a scrap peice of metal, trace the outline of the light, cut the template out. Then apply some rtv to seal out the rain/dust and mount.

Posted

Been here, done that. My 99 with a Snugtop had the same issue. I took a piece of 3/8" thick white plastic (my 99 truck is white) and used the light as a template to trace the outline. Saw it out. Find a disk or belt sander and sand a rounded shape. I used white RTV to bond it in. It's been in there for 10 yrs now.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
    • It’s at the point of amusement. I’m retired I have time. It’s fun seeing people try to convince me I’m using oil. I’m buying oil at the prescribed time. It gets drained and new goes in. Do I add in between, no. My oil doesn’t even get dirty in 5k miles. I don’t even see any drop on the stick. I check in the same place. All is well.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...