Removing The Rear Axles

[pwsigmund]

I'm trying to follow the GM manual directions for removing the rear axles (02 Yukon, 4WD with LSD) and I don't know what I'm looking at. There are two access ports in the carrier. The first problem is that I don't know which access port in the

carrier to get to the C clips:

 

The manual tells you to partially remove the pin, and wedge it against the housing. If I wedge it against the bottom of the housing (where it tends to fall out), I see this

 

Option #1

 

 

 

If I turn the carrier 180 degrees and wedge the extended pin against the top of the housing (which is what the diagram seems to show, I see

 

Option #2:

 

 

 

 

In either event I don't see any evidence of clips or retainers, or anywhere for the axles to go if I push them inward like it says to do.

 

Can someone get me started on this?

 

By the way, do you think I could get some more mileage out of these backing plates?? Nice huh?

 

 

 

Thanks

[thearborbarber]

Try unbolting the abs sensor from the back of the backing plate. It should give you about an additional 1/8 of play to push the axle in to get the c clip out.

 

I would get new backing plates.

[gmtech4]

wow ,that looks nasty ,good luck,BTW it comes apart if you would only look closely and get ride of that god dam cross bar

[pwsigmund]

wow ,that looks nasty ,good luck,BTW it comes apart if you would only look closely and get ride of that god dam cross bar

 

 

Does it matter which side of the carrier I go in?

[pwsigmund]

I noticed some bad pretty rusted brake lines around the rear axle with really complicated tight bends. Would be foolish not to replace them while I'm under there. Can I buy preformed brake line sections? If I replace them, can I still bleed the rear brakes in the old fashioned way via the caliper's bleed fittings, with someone holding down the brake pedal, or is that no longer possible? I read somewhere you need do something with the ABS electronically and without the proper electronic device you can't bleed them otherwise. Is that true?

[gmtech4]

it sounds like you should not be working on brakes because of the general public near you on the road and you have no clue on the axle shafts which hold on the rear tires ,stop it now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[WilliamBos]

it sounds like you should not be working on brakes because of the general public near you on the road and you have no clue on the axle shafts which hold on the rear tires ,stop it now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Instead of the sarcasm, which we are not here for, why don't you offer up the advice on how to get them out?? (That is why we are here, right?)

[mtm700]

Do you have the pinion pin out? If not, take it out-you need an 8mm or 5/16" wrench or shallow socket. The pin will then come out. No need to remove any ABS sensors. Once the pin is out, spin the carrier so it looks like picture #1. Then, push one axle shaft inward with a little force, this will allow you to fish out the C-clip with a magnet. Pull shaft out and repeat on the other side. Now, while its apart, you can replace the axle seals, backing plates, and parking brake shoes-all relatively inexpensive parts.

 

 

Also, you can gravity bleed the brakes. Pinch off the rubber brake hose for the rear brakes. Replace whatever lines you need to in the rear. Pump the brakes a few times and release. Open one rear bleader at a time and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Gravity will do it's job and force the air out the bleeder. Repeat with other side until a steady drip with no bubbles exsists.

[mtm700]

If that don't explain it easily enough, then you probably shouldn't be doing the job.

[txab]

Paul,

The manual you are looking at, is it like this one in this post?

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=912114

 

It should be pretty evident on how you need to attack this and what you're looking for.

[pwsigmund]

Matt, Darrall

 

Thanks for the help. I had removed the pinion pin, but was apprehensive the I might lose alignment (I have the LSD) if I moved the carrier when the pin was out. Once I pushed the axle in the C clips suddenly appeared and I could see what I had to do. After messing around with a screwdriver and various picks for longer than I care to admit, I finally reached in with some duckbill pliers and pulled the C clips right out.

 

Experience helps. When you're working by yourself, what else can you do but ask questions. Even if they appear dumb. When I replace the backing plates on my Chevy pickup next, also rusted out, it will be much easier.

 

My Chevy manual gave some mumbo-jumbo about needing to put the ABS module into "bleed mode" using a controller in order to bleed the rear brakes. I'm glad to hear I can do it the old fashioned way.

 

I appreciate you're taking the time to help.

 

Paul