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How Do You Take Apart Firewall Wiring Connector On Passenger Side?


gscalifornia

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Posted

I am trying to fix the HVAC system in my '92 Suburban and have found that I have wires shorted where they pass through the firewall on the passenger side below the radiator overflow. I have removed the connector from the firewall but cannot figure out how to take it apart without breaking it. What is the trick??

Posted

get a service manual from GM ,

 

how do you know its in the connector?

 

you could go to a body shop ,they may know

Posted
get a service manual from GM ,

 

how do you know its in the connector?

 

you could go to a body shop ,they may know

 

If I had access to a service manual I wouldn't be asking here :(

 

I have power to the red wire that feeds the HVAC unit in the engine compartment, but have no power on the same wire after it passes through the firewall grommet/insulator/whatever it's called. I used a jumper wire to get around the connector and the HVAC module/heater works so I know the problem is inside that connector.

 

I didn't want to leave it jumpered, I'd rather fix the problem so other things don't short out as well. I also don't want to drive it anywhere as I have most of the dash tore apart from tracking down the problem.

Posted

I need to see it to tell you how to take it apart...It could be any number of connectors used by chevy...or by someone else.

 

Post a couple pics

or e-mail them to me

Posted
get a service manual from GM ,

 

how do you know its in the connector?

 

you could go to a body shop ,they may know

 

If I had access to a service manual I wouldn't be asking here :(

 

I have power to the red wire that feeds the HVAC unit in the engine compartment, but have no power on the same wire after it passes through the firewall grommet/insulator/whatever it's called. I used a jumper wire to get around the connector and the HVAC module/heater works so I know the problem is inside that connector.

 

I didn't want to leave it jumpered, I'd rather fix the problem so other things don't short out as well. I also don't want to drive it anywhere as I have most of the dash tore apart from tracking down the problem.

 

 

 

sorry to have offended you ,have fun then

Posted
sorry to have offended you ,have fun then

 

Not offended at all, just trying to get this resolved.

 

Here's a pic of the connector that I am working with. I have tried to pull back on the two side tabs and open it, but it is stuck tight. I didn't want to break it so I thought I'd ask here first. The black wire running through the hole in the firewall is what I used to jump around this connector and verify the problem.

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Posted

Ok. On the back of the plug,toward the firewall. That's the part that unplugs. There should be a blue grey or purple push lock in it somewhere, most likley at the bottom of the connector, that's holding the release clip in place. You pull out that push lock than pust the release clip and wiggle the plug back and forth untill it comes free

Posted

I finally got this grommet apart on Saturday. It was just the two sde tabs that held it together, well that along with whatever gel had been used to seal it. The gel was still clear, but had hardened and was holding to every bend and curve inside the connector.

 

Sure enough the red power wire to the HVAC unit was corroded and broke in two when trying to remove it from the hardened gel. I sliced in a new wire and carefully put the grommet back together and stuck it all back in the firewall.

 

I now have power to the HVAC module again, which means the heater works!! Yea!!!

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