Jump to content

Trasnsfer Case Question


Recommended Posts

Posted

hello, i have a question regarding the shifting of my transfer case. When i shift into 4 wheel drive some times it sounds like the gears are grinding. I know grinding gears sound is never good but what could be causing this? I shift into 4 wheel drive with the transmission in neutral like you should. Also the 4 wheel drive light that is at the shifting collom for the 4x4 does not come on when i am in 4 wheel drive. ( there is a diagram that looks like an over view of the truck with the two separate drive lines one for the front and one for the rear drive systems. )

 

if anyone know please help me out. i am hoping that there is nothing wrong with the 4x4.

Posted

I shift in 4wd when in motion, as long as I am not going over 55 mph. With grinding sound, you shouldn't hear that unless you are having a hard time finding the gear. If you hear a slight thump noise, that is normal as you are now engaging the 4wd. I see you got an older truck. Do you have manual locking hubs or automatic locking hubs?

Posted
I shift in 4wd when in motion, as long as I am not going over 55 mph. With grinding sound, you shouldn't hear that unless you are having a hard time finding the gear. If you hear a slight thump noise, that is normal as you are now engaging the 4wd. I see you got an older truck. Do you have manual locking hubs or automatic locking hubs?

 

well there are no manual locking hubs on the outside of the wheel so i am going to assume that it is automatic locking hubs. I know the cluck you are talking about and it makes me happy when i hear it :thumbs: . now with finding the gear yes when it does do the grinding noise shifting into 4x4 is hard like it doesn't want to engage. should i be rolling a little bit when i engage or could there be a problem with the transfer case itself or is it just as simple as they do it sometime? o i forgot to add that it is a np241c (at least thats what i am 99% sure it is ) with the manual floor shifter. shifting pattern is 2H-2H-N-4L

 

thank you.

Posted

You have to use your palm and apply pressure and push down on lever, then shift it. Remember, push down, then shift. With using N, that is usually for getting into 4LO and/or getting it back out. I do know that the older trucks were a little more difficult in shifting into 4wd, but once you get the hang of it, all goes easy. Like I said, I just take my palm of my hand and apply pressure on top lever and push it down while shifting. Shift on the fly is the most preferred method of 4wd. Alot of people like it for it's strength and durability. When I ran F250's, I would never have one with a push button, always shift on the fly.

Posted
You have to use your palm and apply pressure and push down on lever, then shift it. Remember, push down, then shift. With using N, that is usually for getting into 4LO and/or getting it back out. I do know that the older trucks were a little more difficult in shifting into 4wd, but once you get the hang of it, all goes easy. Like I said, I just take my palm of my hand and apply pressure on top lever and push it down while shifting. Shift on the fly is the most preferred method of 4wd. Alot of people like it for it's strength and durability. When I ran F250's, I would never have one with a push button, always shift on the fly.

 

ok will do. I am thinking that i wasn't applying pressure down on the shifting lever before i shifted. so next time i go into 4 wheel i will make sure to do it while it is rolling a bit and remember to push down first. thank you very much for the help and calming my mind abit. i was going to be really mad if there was something wrong with the case. thanks again

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
    • Too much voodoo and snake oil.   Time to go EV    😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...