Remote Wire

Rattlesnake · February 18, 2010

Which one are you all using for an amp turn on and off by ignition? After doing some searching, I found that the "pink" wire is the magic one. So today, I tapped into this wire and finally got my amp to power up, trouble is, it doesnt turn off when the ignition is off. Not sure why cause this is the pink wire running to the back of my stock HU, and of coarse the HU turns off, but not the amp.

I have also read, to run a wire to the fuse box and tap in there. Should tap in to the radio fuse at the fuse box or what is recommended? How do I reach this wire? Do I need to remove the whole box and turn it upside down?

Also, I installed a line in converter for the low inputs for the amp and I just put both positives and both negitives together and ran those to the left rear speaker wires. Seems to work just fine but I see EVERY instruction on-line says to run the wires seperate to each speaker. What are your thoughts on this??

Thanks in advance for you input!!

big_country33 · February 18, 2010

Which one are you all using for an amp turn on and off by ignition? After doing some searching, I found that the "pink" wire is the magic one. So today, I tapped into this wire and finally got my amp to power up, trouble is, it doesnt turn off when the ignition is off. Not sure why cause this is the pink wire running to the back of my stock HU, and of coarse the HU turns off, but not the amp.

I have also read, to run a wire to the fuse box and tap in there. Should tap in to the radio fuse at the fuse box or what is recommended? How do I reach this wire? Do I need to remove the whole box and turn it upside down?

Also, I installed a line in converter for the low inputs for the amp and I just put both positives and both negitives together and ran those to the left rear speaker wires. Seems to work just fine but I see EVERY instruction on-line says to run the wires seperate to each speaker. What are your thoughts on this??

Thanks in advance for you input!!

I just recently put a system in my silverado using the factory deck, easiest thing i did for the remote for the amp was jump it right off the 12V power wire to a switch then attach the other side of the switch to the remote. i have the power then to turn it off and on whenever i need, (maybe when i have a headache, or the kids in the car or whatever) i have control.

For your ither issue, i have ALWAYS ran both leads for the line out converter separate to each side. i don't know if it will change anything or if it is ok but just letting you know all i have read and personally done is run the wires to each side. GM made it so easy on our trucks anyway.

let me know if you have any ques

Rattlesnake · February 18, 2010

Today, I ran the remote wire directly to the 15a fuse for the radio. Probably not the best idea but just to test, I pulled the fuse out and put the wire in there, and put the fuse in. Damn amp still stays on with out the key in?????

Beginning to think there is not any wires on the whole damn truck that will shut the amp off.....

For the mean time, I just added a toggle switch like Big Country mentioned.. Will it hurt it I leave the remote wire wedged in with the radio fuse? Or should I take the darn radio back out and tap back into the "pink" wire and just leave the toggle switch back on?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

jrod332 · February 19, 2010

You must be finding constant power thats always on. Try searching through other wires with a tester and find one that has power when you turn the key.

big_country33 · February 19, 2010

Today, I ran the remote wire directly to the 15a fuse for the radio. Probably not the best idea but just to test, I pulled the fuse out and put the wire in there, and put the fuse in. Damn amp still stays on with out the key in?????

Beginning to think there is not any wires on the whole damn truck that will shut the amp off.....

For the mean time, I just added a toggle switch like Big Country mentioned.. Will it hurt it I leave the remote wire wedged in with the radio fuse? Or should I take the darn radio back out and tap back into the "pink" wire and just leave the toggle switch back on?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

really you all ready have the toggle switch added, rather than take the whole radio out just use the 12v power wire like i said. thats the easiest thing for you i think. it worked for me.

AGAIN like the last guy said, if you really need it to switch with the key, their is a harness that runs from your key down the steering column that has the pink in it, you should be able to trace it to under the dash somwhere. just use your tester and try it while turning the key, but to me it sounds like way to much work i am a lazy guy. you allrady spent the time running 12V constant to the amp, you allready spent time putting in a switch, just make it look clean and put the switch under the dash out of sight and thats it.

tractionisovr8ed · February 19, 2010

I tried all the wires I could find in the normal spots such as the fuse box and behind the radio of course, but this is the only one I could find. It's hard to explain because I just kept trying all kinds of wires under the steering column, but there is a pink wire that comes out of a multi-wire harness above and in front of the brake pedal. I think it goes to the ignition switch but my lack of flexibility was preventing me from really seeing where it went. Anyways, it works like a normal remote wire should. I wish I could be more descriptive but I hope this helps.

big_country33 · February 19, 2010

I tried all the wires I could find in the normal spots such as the fuse box and behind the radio of course, but this is the only one I could find. It's hard to explain because I just kept trying all kinds of wires under the steering column, but there is a pink wire that comes out of a multi-wire harness above and in front of the brake pedal. I think it goes to the ignition switch but my lack of flexibility was preventing me from really seeing where it went. Anyways, it works like a normal remote wire should. I wish I could be more descriptive but I hope this helps.

thats what i am talking about. the "harness" comes down from the key and goes above somewhere above the break pedal. that would be the ignition wire for the truck. Tie into that and you will be fine.

Rattlesnake · February 19, 2010

For now the toggle switch is working ok, but like I said I just wedged the wire into the radio's 15a fuse under the hood. Will this be ok for now? At least until I spend some more time and find a good wire?

Also I am not happy with how the sub sound. 2 10" Alpine type r's dual VC. The standard box, they wouldnt even fit. I had to get the spacer rings. Then had to wedge some crap under the box to keep the subs from hitting the bottom. I mean they sound decent but dont pound like I was expecting.

Amp is a Power Acoustic (I now cheap) BAMF 2000 mono, I wired them at 4ohms for now which the amp is rated at 600rms (im sure its only about 450 or so). But the sub's dont hit the lows very well and once I get the volume at above 1/2 way, distorsion!! I think I'm going to wire them at 1ohm (which the amp says it is 1ohm stable) and it is then rated at 1200rms (I'm guessing about 1000rms).

Is it the box or just not enough power that is causing them not to pound like they should???

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

big_country33 · February 20, 2010

For now the toggle switch is working ok, but like I said I just wedged the wire into the radio's 15a fuse under the hood. Will this be ok for now? At least until I spend some more time and find a good wire?

Also I am not happy with how the sub sound. 2 10" Alpine type r's dual VC. The standard box, they wouldnt even fit. I had to get the spacer rings. Then had to wedge some crap under the box to keep the subs from hitting the bottom. I mean they sound decent but dont pound like I was expecting.

Amp is a Power Acoustic (I now cheap) BAMF 2000 mono, I wired them at 4ohms for now which the amp is rated at 600rms (im sure its only about 450 or so). But the sub's dont hit the lows very well and once I get the volume at above 1/2 way, distorsion!! I think I'm going to wire them at 1ohm (which the amp says it is 1ohm stable) and it is then rated at 1200rms (I'm guessing about 1000rms).

Is it the box or just not enough power that is causing them not to pound like they should???

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if it were me i would take that wire out from in the radio fuse, your not going to use it later and it might casue problems if it touches somthing you don't want it to touch or whatever, it is live so i would take itout. you will be safe on the other hand IF it doesn't touch anything, the wire you have coming out of there isnt going to anywhere so as long as it doesn't touch your good.

i think that your box is to small for the subs for sure. Type R 10"s need a lot of breathing space, telling me that they put spacer rings casue they wouldn't fit suggests the box is small. thats one problem i think. after that it could possibly be the cheap amp you have or the way its hooked up through your line converter, do you have a high quality converter? and did you switch the one side of it to your other rear speaker or just keep it the same.

Rattlesnake · February 20, 2010

For now the toggle switch is working ok, but like I said I just wedged the wire into the radio's 15a fuse under the hood. Will this be ok for now? At least until I spend some more time and find a good wire?

Also I am not happy with how the sub sound. 2 10" Alpine type r's dual VC. The standard box, they wouldnt even fit. I had to get the spacer rings. Then had to wedge some crap under the box to keep the subs from hitting the bottom. I mean they sound decent but dont pound like I was expecting.

Amp is a Power Acoustic (I now cheap) BAMF 2000 mono, I wired them at 4ohms for now which the amp is rated at 600rms (im sure its only about 450 or so). But the sub's dont hit the lows very well and once I get the volume at above 1/2 way, distorsion!! I think I'm going to wire them at 1ohm (which the amp says it is 1ohm stable) and it is then rated at 1200rms (I'm guessing about 1000rms).

Is it the box or just not enough power that is causing them not to pound like they should???

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if it were me i would take that wire out from in the radio fuse, your not going to use it later and it might casue problems if it touches somthing you don't want it to touch or whatever, it is live so i would take itout. you will be safe on the other hand IF it doesn't touch anything, the wire you have coming out of there isnt going to anywhere so as long as it doesn't touch your good.

i think that your box is to small for the subs for sure. Type R 10"s need a lot of breathing space, telling me that they put spacer rings casue they wouldn't fit suggests the box is small. thats one problem i think. after that it could possibly be the cheap amp you have or the way its hooked up through your line converter, do you have a high quality converter? and did you switch the one side of it to your other rear speaker or just keep it the same.

The remote wire that is wedged in the radio fuse is what I am using for the amp. I have it ran from the fuse to a toggle switch, then to the amp. I just turn it on and off when I need to. As for the line converter, it's a Stinger (not the best, but not the worst). I just put the 2 +'s and -'s together then ran it to the drivers rear speaker. I figured since it is a mono amp anyway it shouldn't matter if it is ran to one or both speakers.

The type r's are rated for a minimum of .6 cu ft air space and that is what the box is. It just doesnt hit the lows very well at loud volume, probably from lack of air space I'm guessing.

Should I go ahead and wire them at 1ohm instead of the 4? Just to see what happens?

Let me know what you think,

Thanks again,

big_country33 · February 21, 2010

For now the toggle switch is working ok, but like I said I just wedged the wire into the radio's 15a fuse under the hood. Will this be ok for now? At least until I spend some more time and find a good wire?

Also I am not happy with how the sub sound. 2 10" Alpine type r's dual VC. The standard box, they wouldnt even fit. I had to get the spacer rings. Then had to wedge some crap under the box to keep the subs from hitting the bottom. I mean they sound decent but dont pound like I was expecting.

Amp is a Power Acoustic (I now cheap) BAMF 2000 mono, I wired them at 4ohms for now which the amp is rated at 600rms (im sure its only about 450 or so). But the sub's dont hit the lows very well and once I get the volume at above 1/2 way, distorsion!! I think I'm going to wire them at 1ohm (which the amp says it is 1ohm stable) and it is then rated at 1200rms (I'm guessing about 1000rms).

Is it the box or just not enough power that is causing them not to pound like they should???

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if it were me i would take that wire out from in the radio fuse, your not going to use it later and it might casue problems if it touches somthing you don't want it to touch or whatever, it is live so i would take itout. you will be safe on the other hand IF it doesn't touch anything, the wire you have coming out of there isnt going to anywhere so as long as it doesn't touch your good.

i think that your box is to small for the subs for sure. Type R 10"s need a lot of breathing space, telling me that they put spacer rings casue they wouldn't fit suggests the box is small. thats one problem i think. after that it could possibly be the cheap amp you have or the way its hooked up through your line converter, do you have a high quality converter? and did you switch the one side of it to your other rear speaker or just keep it the same.

The remote wire that is wedged in the radio fuse is what I am using for the amp. I have it ran from the fuse to a toggle switch, then to the amp. I just turn it on and off when I need to. As for the line converter, it's a Stinger (not the best, but not the worst). I just put the 2 +'s and -'s together then ran it to the drivers rear speaker. I figured since it is a mono amp anyway it shouldn't matter if it is ran to one or both speakers.

The type r's are rated for a minimum of .6 cu ft air space and that is what the box is. It just doesnt hit the lows very well at loud volume, probably from lack of air space I'm guessing.

Should I go ahead and wire them at 1ohm instead of the 4? Just to see what happens?

Let me know what you think,

Thanks again,

so i am not sure what kind of draw or amperage the "remote" wire needs but for me i would not be using some wire jammed into the fuse, could cause problems. use the big 12V you used to get power and run a switch in line with that to turn it on and off. that would be safer for sure rather than it jammed in a fuse. that would be one thing i would fix.

at this point you have nothing to lose, your not happy with the lows in your bass so i would try different things one at a time. try wiring them at 1 ohm. see what it sounds like. try taking the positives and the negatives apart and putting them to their respective side. see how that sounds. you never know. wiring is a trial and error thing. thats the stage your at i think.

Rattlesnake · February 21, 2010

My amp will not power on unless I have the remote lead getting power, so I need to have it hooked up. If I run the switch to the main power wire (going to the battery) then have my remote going to power (currently on the radio fuse) the amp will stay on all the time. This is the reason I have the switch on the remote wire.

I'm just going to get a tester and find a wire that will turn it on and off with the ignition. Some research has shown me that there is a yellow wire near the brake petal that "might" be the one.

big_country33 · February 21, 2010

My amp will not power on unless I have the remote lead getting power, so I need to have it hooked up. If I run the switch to the main power wire (going to the battery) then have my remote going to power (currently on the radio fuse) the amp will stay on all the time. This is the reason I have the switch on the remote wire.

I'm just going to get a tester and find a wire that will turn it on and off with the ignition. Some research has shown me that there is a yellow wire near the brake petal that "might" be the one.

you didn't understand what i said. use a jumper wire from the 12V on your amp run it to one side of your switch then run the other side of your switch back to the remote wire place on your amp. your just using the big 12V as your source for your remote rather than the fuse. its the same thing, your switch will turn your amp on and off. it wont be on all the time. its just better getting power right from the battery then a little fuse which is rated fir a certain draw. understand me now?

try to understand my diagram lol