Jump to content

Nitto Trail Grappler M/t


MarkD

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am shopping for new tires (apparently, I am not the only one).

 

From reading all of the posts, from most tame to wildest, I am looking at the following tires

 

Cooper Zeon LTZ

 

Nitto Trail Grappler A/T

 

Nitto Trail Grappler M/T

 

Toyo Open Country M/T

 

 

These are to be put on the factory 17 inch GMC HD rims. I am thinking of a 285/70-17 or 295/70-17.

Posted

I have a buddy that got a 2010 dodge ram(awful, I know) and he put 35" nitto trail grapplers mt's on there. they look decent but i'm used to looking at 35" mud grapplers :thumbs: haha i'd go with the toyo mt's out of that list. im going to be choosing between them or bfg all terrains for my next set. possibly pro comp all terrains

Posted

I spent about an hour at the tire shop today. They are really pro-BFG. They are great tires, I just want something different. They added the BFG Mud Terrain KM2's to the list.

 

They said to expect no more than 40k miles out of any Mud Tire. They also said the Toyo's have a harder compound and will last longer than the other M/T's.

Posted

Im in the same situation as well. I have Pro Comp Xtreme A/T on my stock rims and looking to get a new set of rims and tires for summer only. The pro comps i have had for about a year now and as for wear they are great so far. I use them to trailer and highway has been good. They like to walk a little bit at about 140km/h though. Also for winter I cannot complain at all. I kind of want something a little meaner looking for the summer though.

Posted
Im in the same situation as well. I have Pro Comp Xtreme A/T on my stock rims and looking to get a new set of rims and tires for summer only. The pro comps i have had for about a year now and as for wear they are great so far. I use them to trailer and highway has been good. They like to walk a little bit at about 140km/h though. Also for winter I cannot complain at all. I kind of want something a little meaner looking for the summer though.

 

I have the a/t extremes and have put over 30k on them and there is still PLENTY of tread left. In fact I am trying to wear them out so I can replace the 33 with a 35 but they just wont wear out!! They do great in the snow, and decent off-road except for deep mud where a full on M/T is required. These tires will last 50k.

 

I plan to switch to the 35x12.5x20 Nitto Trail Grappler m/t when these are shot. I believe the compound of these tires is similar to the terra grappler, and with 19/32nds tread depth they are the same depth as the xtreme A/Ts which leads me to believe that you shoudl be able to get decent life out of the trail graps. Maybe a little less mileage than the xteme a/ts but more aggressive looking and probably a little better performance in mud.

Posted

As you probably know already Nitto is Toyo's sister company so as far as your Trail Grapplers and Open Country M/T tires goes, they are pretty much the same as in tread pattern, just a few differences in side walls. On my last truck I ran Nitto Mud Grapplers, those things were loud and reminded me of an Air Force C-5A/B Galaxy ideling on the flightline, so I after reveiwing and listening to sounds on youtube, I went with the Toyo's and so far I have no complaints, they hum, but are actually pretty quiet for a M/T tire.

Posted

I just put Nitto Trail Grapplers on my truck on Friday. I love em! Quiet for a m/t on the road and they look awesome. Pictures do not do them justice. I was going to go with the Toyo's but I haven't seen these yet and wanted to give them a shot. No regrets so far.

Posted

Well, the BFG Mud T/A KM2 and the Nitto Trail Grappler M/T are the same price. The Toyo's are $30 more per tire.

Posted
Well, the BFG Mud T/A KM2 and the Nitto Trail Grappler M/T are the same price. The Toyo's are $30 more per tire.

toyo's last a hair longer and have a better side wall design than the nitto mt's. i'd go with the toyo's.....bfg's are great tires. but i don't like the looks of the mud t/a km2. if you do go with it and then toyo with nitto mt's last enless your get the ever so beautiful mud grapplers

Posted
Steve, the Nittos have 21/32" of tread in that size.

 

:thumbs:

 

 

sweeeet even better. I was trying to recall from memory without looking it up!! deeper the better!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,078 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...