Jump to content

Losing Transmission Fluid..don't Know Where Though

Dexter

By Dexter
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

Dexter New Member

Dexter

Posted
Posted

Hi there,

 

I'm kind of new here but I hope someone can answer my question. I own a 2006 2500HD 4X4 with the duramax and allison tranny. I'm losing fluid out of the transfer case somewhere around the driveshaft. The rear seal has been replaced twice by the dealer and they say they do not see any leaks. It slings on the underbody and the exhaust so I know its leaking. It looks as if it is coming from the splined yoke section that goes in the transfer case. Is it possible for it to leak from the inside through the yoke out to where the universal attaches? I have taken the driveshaft out before to check but can't really tell. The basic sign is that it is concentrated in this area and no where else.

 

Thanks for any help.

jro909 Senior Enthusiast

jro909

Posted
Posted

it may be running onto the shaft and then being thrown onto the underbelly of the truck, my 1500 had that issue on the main driveshaft..

lhr360 Enthusiast

lhr360

Posted
Posted

replace the yoke have seen this before it is just a soft plug pressed into the yoke to keep it from leaking. the only way to fix is to replace the yoke

thearborbarber Enthusiast

thearborbarber

Posted
Posted

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub'>http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...r+case+pump+rub

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

take rear shaft off ,clean inside and out of slip yoke with brake cleaner and compressed air ,cover the cap with silicone on the yoke ,reinstall,fixed .

 

 

thats it ,no need to replace the yoke and ignore pump rub crap

Dexter New Member

Dexter

Posted
  • Author
Posted
take rear shaft off ,clean inside and out of slip yoke with brake cleaner and compressed air ,cover the cap with silicone on the yoke ,reinstall,fixed .

 

 

thats it ,no need to replace the yoke and ignore pump rub crap

 

 

I did remove it last year and thought I cleaned it well. I then put jb weld over the cap thinking it would or should seal it but it apparently hasn't if this is where the leak is. Do you think silicone will do the trick?

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Yeah, JB weld can crack -- silicon will stretch. Silicone wins ... as long as yoke is clean & oil free as previously stated.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • newdude
      Radio Update

      By newdude · Posted

      PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...