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Installing A Trailer Brake Controller On 93 Yukon


hoorders

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Posted

Hey everyone,

 

My 93 Yukon has the trailering package and I was just wondering on how to install the trailer brake controller.

My 2000 silverado had a plug under the dash that the trailer brake controller just plugged into and viola, it all wolred great.

Will my 93 have this plug under the dash or will I have to wire the controller in the old fashioned way, wire by wire?

 

Thanks.

Posted

I don't think there's a plug under the dash,but if you have a hitch and trailer plug the wires are there just not connected.Look down below the master cylinder for a big clump(for lack of a better word :confused: ) of electrical tape,unwrap it.You should see the wires,and if IIRC there are eyes on the ends of the wires too.It's been a couple of years since I did this on wifey's '99 Burb so I don't remember exactly how I connected them.I seem to think I connected to the A & B posts on the fuse block(remove the cover,you'll see).

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Please let me know how you did on this subject. I'm going to have to do the same thing on a 76 Camper Special and could learn by your experience.

 

kind regards,

 

John

 

Hey everyone,

 

My 93 Yukon has the trailering package and I was just wondering on how to install the trailer brake controller.

My 2000 silverado had a plug under the dash that the trailer brake controller just plugged into and viola, it all wolred great.

Will my 93 have this plug under the dash or will I have to wire the controller in the old fashioned way, wire by wire?

 

Thanks.

Posted

Please let me know how you did on this subject. I'm going to have to do the same thing on a 76 Camper Special and could learn by your experience.

 

kind regards,

 

John

 

 

 

I added one to a '77 GMC a while back,fairly easy.I bought a cheap unit @ Pep Boys and installed it per instructions and worked fine.IIRC I had to do a little fab work to mount the plug on the bumper,no biggy.Be sure you have a MM on hand,you'll need it. :thumbs:

Posted

Thanks. I go into the auto parts store and look at controllers hanging in the blister packs and have no idea what I need. The trailer I have has electric brakes and I need to rewire the trailer too because it has two 4 wire plugs to lights and brakes. I think I need some other type of plug there?

I know this is basic stuff and I need to learn it but where to start?

kind regards, John

Posted
Thanks. I go into the auto parts store and look at controllers hanging in the blister packs and have no idea what I need. The trailer I have has electric brakes and I need to rewire the trailer too because it has two 4 wire plugs to lights and brakes. I think I need some other type of plug there?

I know this is basic stuff and I need to learn it but where to start?

kind regards, John

 

 

It appears you have one too many plugs,but,it's hard to tell what the previous owner might have added to your trailer.I know this...trailer wiring kits are available at most auto parts stores.The wires are color coded so all trailers should be wired the same.Is it possible for you to snap a pic so we can see what you have?One of the trailer and one of the tongue area where the plugs are visible?Also pick up a set of assorted wire connectors & wire crimpers,you're gonna need 'em(a Multi-Meter also).You're gonna want a 7-pin plug since the trailer has electric brakes....can't imagine why the prev. owner didn't use one :)

Posted

Your best bet it to get a Proportional Controller, not a timed one. While the timed ones will work, they are sort of clunky. These are pretty simple to install. Typically you will tap off the break light switch, +12V, GND, and the wire that goes back to the 7-way plug. For a simple one stop shopping I would go to etrailer.com. They have whole kits that include break controller, 7-way plugs, and anything else you will need to do this yourself. There might be other vendors for this stuff, but I have used etrailer beofre, and not had any problems.

Posted
Your best bet it to get a Proportional Controller, not a timed one. While the timed ones will work, they are sort of clunky. These are pretty simple to install. Typically you will tap off the break light switch, +12V, GND, and the wire that goes back to the 7-way plug. For a simple one stop shopping I would go to etrailer.com. They have whole kits that include break controller, 7-way plugs, and anything else you will need to do this yourself. There might be other vendors for this stuff, but I have used etrailer beofre, and not had any problems.

Thanks for your reply and Gramps too. I now know that I need a 7-way plug and a proportional controller which I didn't know before so you're helping me make some progress.

The PO of the trailer had two sets of 4-way plugs and must have had some weird way of hooking up the brakes that I can't figure out. At any rate when I bought the trailer I didn't even know it had brakes until I got it home and the lights didn't work.

The PO of the truck has a controller mounted on the steering column that has a hydraulic line going through the firewall. I know that isn't for electric brakes so will need to remove that stuff and use the mounting bracket for the new controller.

A protocol question. I've kind of highjacked Hoorder's thread. Should I start a new thread or just continue here?

kind regards, John

Posted
The PO of the truck has a controller mounted on the steering column that has a hydraulic line going through the firewall. I know that isn't for electric brakes so will need to remove that stuff and use the mounting bracket for the new controller.

Actually that probably is for electric breaks. There were and possibly still are some the work off of the actual break fluid, thus the hydraulic line. I believe there are not used with anti-lock breaks, as it would cause problems.

Posted
The PO of the truck has a controller mounted on the steering column that has a hydraulic line going through the firewall. I know that isn't for electric brakes so will need to remove that stuff and use the mounting bracket for the new controller.

Actually that probably is for electric breaks. There were and possibly still are some the work off of the actual break fluid, thus the hydraulic line. I believe there are not used with anti-lock breaks, as it would cause problems.

 

That's interesting. I'll have to do some research on the one that's on the truck. The hydraulic line is disconnected on the engine side of the firewall.

Is there a brand of controller that is a bit better than others or are they all about the same? There seems to be quite a difference in price.

Thanks for your input.

regards, John

Posted
The PO of the truck has a controller mounted on the steering column that has a hydraulic line going through the firewall. I know that isn't for electric brakes so will need to remove that stuff and use the mounting bracket for the new controller.

Actually that probably is for electric breaks. There were and possibly still are some the work off of the actual break fluid, thus the hydraulic line. I believe there are not used with anti-lock breaks, as it would cause problems.

 

That's interesting. I'll have to do some research on the one that's on the truck. The hydraulic line is disconnected on the engine side of the firewall.

Is there a brand of controller that is a bit better than others or are they all about the same? There seems to be quite a difference in price.

Thanks for your input.

regards, John

 

I personally have always used Tekonsha brands. Last one I bought was a Tekonsha Prodigy. Worked perfect. Basically once you set it up the first time, you forget it is even there. (Unless you tow a different trailer and have to adjust it. I will probabky be putting on in my "new" 1990 Burb I just got yesterday.

Posted
The PO of the truck has a controller mounted on the steering column that has a hydraulic line going through the firewall. I know that isn't for electric brakes so will need to remove that stuff and use the mounting bracket for the new controller.

Actually that probably is for electric breaks. There were and possibly still are some the work off of the actual break fluid, thus the hydraulic line. I believe there are not used with anti-lock breaks, as it would cause problems.

 

That's interesting. I'll have to do some research on the one that's on the truck. The hydraulic line is disconnected on the engine side of the firewall.

Is there a brand of controller that is a bit better than others or are they all about the same? There seems to be quite a difference in price.

Thanks for your input.

regards, John

 

I personally have always used Tekonsha brands. Last one I bought was a Tekonsha Prodigy. Worked perfect. Basically once you set it up the first time, you forget it is even there. (Unless you tow a different trailer and have to adjust it. I will probabky be putting on in my "new" 1990 Burb I just got yesterday.

 

Thanks for the recommendation and congratulations on the "new" burb.

kind regards,

Posted

That's very helpful information and will help me a great deal when I get my controller.

kind regards,

John

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