Rear Brake Job.

[wes335]

There are some fairly deep grooves on my rear brake rotors, but there are none on the fronts. I'm thinking I should just go get the rotors turned at o'riellys and replace the pads with some wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads from advance auto parts. What do you guys think I should do????

 

 

 

 

[Bish]

There are some fairly deep grooves on my rear brake rotors, but there are none on the fronts. I'm thinking I should just go get the rotors turned at o'riellys and replace the pads with some wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads from advance auto parts. What do you guys think I should do????

 

 

 

 

 

 

How much pad you have left? If you are not feeling any vibration when braking and the pads have life in them I wouldn't do anything.

 

If the ads are close to worn out, I would replace the rotors. I have not had good luck turning rotors the last 10 years as they ake them so thin they are almost disposable.

[C. Charles Hahn]

How many miles are on them?

[Bob D]

There are some fairly deep grooves on my rear brake rotors...I'm thinking I should just go get the rotors turned...and replace the pads...

Rear rotor / brake issues were an ongoing problem especially for vehicles in northern climes. (Hence their rationale for returning to rear drums in '05 (I believe). This was due to bad design / materials according to local Chev. Service tech.

MHO: Replace rear rotors. I installed Raybestos (reasonably priced at Rockauto) when mine self destructed on my '03.

[wes335]

I'm not sure how much pad is left, but i have noticed that when I am at a stoplight, i really have to hold my foot down firmly on the brake pedal or the truck will slowly start moving forward. The truck just started doing this in the last few months. There are about 40K miles on the pads and rotors. Also, I do not feel any vibrations when braking.

[jro909]

I'm not sure how much pad is left, but i have noticed that when I am at a stoplight, i really have to hold my foot down firmly on the brake pedal or the truck will slowly start moving forward. The truck just started doing this in the last few months. There are about 40K miles on the pads and rotors. Also, I do not feel any vibrations when braking.

 

 

my 04 does the same thing...it kind of lurches forward unless you really get on the brake pedal...oh and don't turn rotors, turning rotors isen't going to make them thicker

[Pauldeere]

First thing I would check and make sure the calipers are not sticking. New pads and rotors will be a waste of time and money if the calipers are not working correctly....

[wes335]

my 04 does the same thing...it kind of lurches forward unless you really get on the brake pedal...oh and don't turn rotors, turning rotors isen't going to make them thicker

 

Yea, thats exactly what I'm talking about. Did you do anything to fix it on your truck?

 

 

 

First thing I would check and make sure the calipers are not sticking. New pads and rotors will be a waste of time and money if the calipers are not working correctly....

 

So your saying that the lurching forward "thing" could be cause by a the calipers sticking? And how might I go about checking to see if they are sticking?

[Bob D]

...how might I go about checking to see if they are sticking?

Are the rear wheels excessively hot after an extended drive?

If you drive close / parallel to a wall can you hear any scraping noise?

Jack up rear axle. Depress and release brakes, spin wheels.

[wes335]

What about bleeding the brakes or flushing them? The fluid looks to be a dark greenish color and has a funny odor to it.

[Bob D]

What about bleeding the brakes or flushing them?...

After 6 years, I would. Fluid should not look that much dirtier than new stuff in the bottle.

 

PS: Assuming calipers are OK, I'd advise you pick up a couple bleeder screws before bleeding. Existing ones may be corroded.

[pm26]

What about bleeding the brakes or flushing them? The fluid looks to be a dark greenish color and has a funny odor to it.

 

Wes,

 

you should change the brake fluid every two years. The reason is, it attracts moisture and in time it will cause the caliper pistons to corrode. Try replacing the brake fluid and bleeding the brakes before you do anything else.

 

If you had a dragging caliper, you would see abnormal pad wear and the rotor would get really hot. I had a badly seized caliper on a small car a long time ago and the rotor got so hot that it was glowing red at night!

[wes335]

How do you guys recommend i change the break fluid? It seems there are so many different ways, what would be the easiest without any special tools?

 

And I don't think I have a dragging caliper.

[Bob D]

How do you guys recommend i change the break fluid?...what would be the easiest without any special tools?

Drain dirty fluid from master cyl. (borrow Mom's turkey baster). Note: brake fluid and paint do not play well together.

Fill master cyl. with clean fluid. Bleed sequence: Pass rear, Divers rear, Pass front, Drivers front. Install tight fitting hose on end of bleed valve, other end submerged in a jar with a bit of brake fluid at bottom. Break bleed valve on Pass rear. If corroded at all, replace with new bleed valve. Open bleed valve while someone pushes slowly / steadily on brake pedal. Close valve immediately at end of brake travel. Repeat ad nauseam until fluid comes out clean. Do not let master cyl run dry.

Google "how to bleed brakes" you'll get hundreds of hits with pictures, videos, etc.

[TOTALRECALL]

 

Thought you might like this picture off my 2002 Silverado Front - still braked fine, it was the wear indicator that gave things away. Only had about 30K on the truck.

 

Mike