Jump to content

Brake Fluid Level Sensor Replacement


Recommended Posts

Posted

A few days ago the brake warning light on my dash illuminated and did not go out. The E brake is not engaged and I found that if I unplugged the plug attached to the brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir the light would go out as normal. The fluid level is within specs and not low.

 

Is it possible to replace the reservoir and/or sensor by removing the reservoir from the master cylinder and replacing it with a new one, and not have to bleed the entire brake system?

 

Thanks.

Frank

Posted
A few days ago the brake warning light on my dash illuminated and did not go out. The E brake is not engaged and I found that if I unplugged the plug attached to the brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir the light would go out as normal. The fluid level is within specs and not low.

 

Is it possible to replace the reservoir and/or sensor by removing the reservoir from the master cylinder and replacing it with a new one, and not have to bleed the entire brake system?

 

Thanks.

Frank

 

I wouldn't go through all that trouble just for a brake fluid level sensor, I'd just leave it unplugged. The chances that you will run out of brake fluid are null, the chances that you'll run out of brake fluid and can't stop are none. You have a bigger chance of a brake line rusting and busting than running out of brake fluid.

Posted
A few days ago the brake warning light on my dash illuminated and did not go out. The E brake is not engaged and I found that if I unplugged the plug attached to the brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir the light would go out as normal. The fluid level is within specs and not low.

 

Is it possible to replace the reservoir and/or sensor by removing the reservoir from the master cylinder and replacing it with a new one, and not have to bleed the entire brake system?

 

Thanks.

Frank

 

It's a simple process.....just compress the locking tabs on the opposite side of the mastercylinder and slide the sensor out. Install the new sensor until the tabs lock into place. No need to remove the reservoir. No bleeding required.

Posted
A few days ago the brake warning light on my dash illuminated and did not go out. The E brake is not engaged and I found that if I unplugged the plug attached to the brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir the light would go out as normal. The fluid level is within specs and not low.

 

Is it possible to replace the reservoir and/or sensor by removing the reservoir from the master cylinder and replacing it with a new one, and not have to bleed the entire brake system?

 

Thanks.

Frank

 

It's a simple process.....just compress the locking tabs on the opposite side of the mastercylinder and slide the sensor out. Install the new sensor until the tabs lock into place. No need to remove the reservoir. No bleeding required.

 

Posted

Thanks. That's great. Is it possible to buy just the sensor? So far, everywhere I have looked the reservoir is included with the sensor (or vice-versa) and in many cases I would have to buy the entire master cylinder.

Posted
Thanks. That's great. Is it possible to buy just the sensor? So far, everywhere I have looked the reservoir is included with the sensor (or vice-versa) and in many cases I would have to buy the entire master cylinder.

 

Yes you can buy just the sensor....I know www.rockauto.com shows a listing for an Airtex 5S1194 and a standard motor products FLS-12 replacements for my truck and I bet we have the same mastercylinder. They do show the Airtex as a replacement part for an 01 Suburban but not the SMP and show no listing whatsoever for the 00 Suburban. But they do show the mastercylinder the same part number for your Suburban and my truck. Who knows what's up w/ those listings. You might give the local GM dealer a call on that one.

Napa also shows a ECH FLS504 available for $11.99 for my truck. It damn sure couldn't hurt to buy one and give it a try. This look right?

99299.jpg

  • 2 months later...
Posted

So, did replacing the fluid sensor solve your problem? If I am not wrong, I think there should also be a float on the inside of the reservoir. And also looking at the pic above, what are you pressing to get the sensor out. Is it on the inside of the reservoir or on the outside of the reservoir where the electric connector attaches

Posted
So, did replacing the fluid sensor solve your problem? If I am not wrong, I think there should also be a float on the inside of the reservoir. And also looking at the pic above, what are you pressing to get the sensor out. Is it on the inside of the reservoir or on the outside of the reservoir where the electric connector attaches

 

 

John and Chris: I never did have the need to replace the sensor as the 2000 Suburban was totaled shortly thereafter by a driver not paying any attention and hitting my Suburban at 40 mph. It went to a salvage auction.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

I tried replacing the sensor, but that did not work. I bought a new reservoir for $38.00 and installed it. It took about 30 mins to remove and install the reservoir. I did not have to bleed the brakes because the master cylinder still had fluid in it. After all that work, and the dang brake light is still on, so I took it to firestone and they did a reset for me. The light has not been back since-100miles anyway. Now I am trying to figure out why my ABS light does not come on when I turn the key on? Found the problem, some shady dealer had snapped the LED light off the instrument cluster, and now I need to find a replacement LED and someone that can solder the bulb in without frying the entire cluster board. Tsk, Tsk.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 986 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...