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Power Wire Routing?

ChevyUNC14

By ChevyUNC14
in Audio, Electronics & Software

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ChevyUNC14 Enthusiast

ChevyUNC14

Posted
Posted

Well ive got my Pioneer 4200dvd along with Polk Audio DB6501's up front and 651's in the rear door of my 2010 Crew cab but now is the time to amp up the front comp along with adding at least one sub if not 2, but I could use a hand. I was looking under the hood and noticed this truck is much cleaner under the hood than my 05 silverado was and I actually had holes to run the power wire cleanly but the battery was on the left side front not the right side rear. I wont mind drilling a hole as long as I know im not potentially damaging something. But im also not totally against running it down the frame and back into the cab if thats a better option. Just looking opnions on how to have a clean install.

Ahsmo Enthusiast

Ahsmo

Posted
Posted
Well ive got my Pioneer 4200dvd along with Polk Audio DB6501's up front and 651's in the rear door of my 2010 Crew cab but now is the time to amp up the front comp along with adding at least one sub if not 2, but I could use a hand. I was looking under the hood and noticed this truck is much cleaner under the hood than my 05 silverado was and I actually had holes to run the power wire cleanly but the battery was on the left side front not the right side rear. I wont mind drilling a hole as long as I know im not potentially damaging something. But im also not totally against running it down the frame and back into the cab if thats a better option. Just looking opnions on how to have a clean install.

 

There is a big factory rubber grommet on the driver's side behind a big fuse box. You have to run the power wire along the back of the fire wall which adds length and thus $$ to your wire expense but you avoid drilling a hole. I cut the factory grommet and used some silicone to seal up the hole. Their is a factory wire bundle that runs along the driver's side door sill that will hold a significant amount of wire without showing. I think you could fit 2 gauge and maybe 0 gauge depending on how much power you want to run. If you do this method and route the wire as I described you will need approximately 20 feet of wire depending on how close your amp is to the driver's side.

 

If you are not comfortable with cutting the factory grommet I think the next best option is to run the wire down the frame and up through the floor back where you mount your amps which I assume will be on the back wall of the cab. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...4=263602_263622 If I had run anything larger than 8 gauge in my install I would have done the above and used the posted Stinger grommet. This method will save wire and maybe you can get away with running smaller wire thus save $$.

ChevyUNC14 Enthusiast

ChevyUNC14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had planned on running 4 gauge wire and then into a distribution block down to 8 gauge as my comp amp runs at 60x2 rms and my sub amp will probaly be my JL Audio 250/1 I had from my other truck and my just run a single ported 8 JL audio 8w3v3 or a sealed 10" Jl Audio 10w3v2 I have from a previous project I had.

 

I noticed that grommet but being on the other side of the engine wasnt sure how cleanly I could install that. Also think with the single sub I may just build an amp rack under my passenger seat for both amp that way I have access for any fine tuning

silveradope Enthusiast

silveradope

Posted
Posted
Well ive got my Pioneer 4200dvd along with Polk Audio DB6501's up front and 651's in the rear door of my 2010 Crew cab but now is the time to amp up the front comp along with adding at least one sub if not 2, but I could use a hand. I was looking under the hood and noticed this truck is much cleaner under the hood than my 05 silverado was and I actually had holes to run the power wire cleanly but the battery was on the left side front not the right side rear. I wont mind drilling a hole as long as I know im not potentially damaging something. But im also not totally against running it down the frame and back into the cab if thats a better option. Just looking opnions on how to have a clean install.

 

There is a big factory rubber grommet on the driver's side behind a big fuse box. You have to run the power wire along the back of the fire wall which adds length and thus $$ to your wire expense but you avoid drilling a hole. I cut the factory grommet and used some silicone to seal up the hole. Their is a factory wire bundle that runs along the driver's side door sill that will hold a significant amount of wire without showing. I think you could fit 2 gauge and maybe 0 gauge depending on how much power you want to run. If you do this method and route the wire as I described you will need approximately 20 feet of wire depending on how close your amp is to the driver's side.

 

If you are not comfortable with cutting the factory grommet I think the next best option is to run the wire down the frame and up through the floor back where you mount your amps which I assume will be on the back wall of the cab. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...4=263602_263622 If I had run anything larger than 8 gauge in my install I would have done the above and used the posted Stinger grommet. This method will save wire and maybe you can get away with running smaller wire thus save $$.

 

 

I have the same issue and was wondering if you could tell me how hard it was to run the power wire through this grommet. did you need to use a snake? where does the wire come out? Will i be able to see it come out under the dash or do i need to take some of the das panels off. cost is not a concern and I dont care about how much wire i use. I am really looking for the simplest way to get power to an amp without drilling holes through the body

silveradope Enthusiast

silveradope

Posted
Posted

just went out and ran the amp wire.

Pulled the tape off of the rubber grommet /wiring harness in the engine compartment. This allows some streching of the grommet and flexibility to slide the wire through with the harness without damaging the harness or grommet.

bent a piece of coat hanger and attached the amp wire to it with electrical tape. Pushed the coathanger through the grommet alongside the wire harness from the inside of the truck.

Pulled the coathanger/wire combo through from the engine compartment side and tie wrapped along the top of the fire wall.

taped up the rubber grommet. done.

nice simple and no extra holes.

Thanks for the advise!!

this was exactly what i was looking for!

Ahsmo Enthusiast

Ahsmo

Posted
Posted
But how much wire is needed then doing it this way? My kit has 18 ft is that enough or should I buy another peice of wire about 2-3 ft long?

 

You should be okay with that. It just depends on where you mount your amp... Mine is in the middle of the back wall.

silveradope Enthusiast

silveradope

Posted
Posted
But how much wire is needed then doing it this way? My kit has 18 ft is that enough or should I buy another peice of wire about 2-3 ft long?

 

You should be okay with that. It just depends on where you mount your amp... Mine is in the middle of the back wall.

 

 

you are cutting it close at 18 feet. I would buy a small 1-2 foot piece and if needed, use the small piece to connect your battery to your fuse block/holder.

isaidme Enthusiast

isaidme

Posted
Posted

There is a spot right behind the fuse box that you can drill and run a power wire thru. If you unlatch the fuse box and push it aside you will see a dimple that is already drilled thru on the other side of the firewall. Im not sure why gm did this but to me it is an indicator that its a safe place to drill, you just have to make the hole big enough to fit a grommet that fits your power wire. I just did mine and it looks completely professional. I do not like the idea of pushing that boot aside and stuffing a power wire thru there right on top of my wiring harness that goes to the trucks ecu.

isaidme Enthusiast

isaidme

Posted
Posted

Be sure to scoop up some wire loom at the auto parts store its cheap and looks factory!post-76618-1283711831_thumb.jpgpost-76618-1283711838_thumb.jpg[at

tach

ment=19887:power_wire.jpeg]

post-76618-1283711851_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711831_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711838_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711851_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711831_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711838_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711851_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711831_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711838_thumb.jpg

post-76618-1283711851_thumb.jpg

silveradope Enthusiast

silveradope

Posted
Posted
There is a spot right behind the fuse box that you can drill and run a power wire thru. If you unlatch the fuse box and push it aside you will see a dimple that is already drilled thru on the other side of the firewall. Im not sure why gm did this but to me it is an indicator that its a safe place to drill, you just have to make the hole big enough to fit a grommet that fits your power wire. I just did mine and it looks completely professional. I do not like the idea of pushing that boot aside and stuffing a power wire thru there right on top of my wiring harness that goes to the trucks ecu.

 

To each his own. There is always more than 1 way to do something.

I did it and it worked out fine for me.

my power wire is made by stinger and has a heavy jacket over it. and it is fused properly.

I have no worries at all.

my system is up and running with no issues.

i had no interest in drilling a 5/8 diameter hole thru my firewall. (5/8 is the hole size that is required for the power wire bushing i was using).

lbkthree Enthusiast

lbkthree

Posted
Posted

I saw that spot and almost did the same thing. I managed to un tape where the other wires go through the firewall, feed the power cable through, and then re-tape it. It it was kind of a PITA but it looks factory. Good tip though.

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