Jump to content

Door Squeaks


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've owned my 2010 GMC Sierra SLT crew cab 4x4 for 6 months and 5k miles. Any time I drive over bumps, wash boards or rough roads, the drivers door squeaks. I'm almost certain it is the door seals because if I wash the truck and they get wet, it does not squeak. Took it to the dealership and they "could not replicate problem". Unfortunately it wasn't me that took it to the dealership otherwise I would have test drove it with a mechanic. Also, we live in a small town, so only one dealership, long lead times to get an appointment and do not want to ruin the relationship.

 

Is this a common problem with the 2010's? Thought I read somewhere there is a TSB regarding new door seals. Anyone have the TSB? Any help or advice is appreciated.

 

Different subject. How difficult is it to install a remote starter... just buy a FOB with the remote starter button or does the truck require software programming/hardware installation?

 

Thanks in advance,

Posted

Welcome to the site. The squeaks can usually be fixed with a little lithium grease or even vaseline applied to the seaks and hinges. As far as the remote start, someone else will have to chime in.

Posted
Welcome to the site. The squeaks can usually be fixed with a little lithium grease or even vaseline applied to the seaks and hinges. As far as the remote start, someone else will have to chime in.

 

 

Thanks for the feedback Stevens07. Btw, nice looking truck! Thanks again,

Posted

NAPA has a product called Sili Glyde which is a silicon based grease. Apply this to your weather seals

(these are the large ones at the top of the doors) and the problem will be gone.

Posted

Yeah, mine does the same thing. Really worried me at first--never thought a truck would flex that much around the doors--something I had not experienced at all with 3 prior Ford trucks. But from reading on this forum, it sounds like most of the GMT900 pickups do this, especially the extended and crew cabs. Outside temp and humidity also seem to affect how much it squeaks. Mine was quiet at first, until the 'vaseline' on the door seals wore off. Probably washed some of it off at the car wash.

 

Here is what my owner's manual says to use to fix it:

 

 

Weatherstrip Squeaks:

 

 

 

Synthetic Grease with Teflon, Superlube (GM Part No. U.S. 12371287, in Canada 10953437).

 

 

Posted

For your remote start add-on, you will need to have a certain RPO code on the sticker of your glove box. AP8. You will need to have the dealer do some programming though. You can also go aftermarket if need be

Posted

it may not be your door seals...i had a 07 silvy EXTENDED cab... the cause was that the two doors on the passenger side werent aligned properley.....take a close look at the doors they may not match up properley.....i had mine in to the dealer 3 times and those idiots couldnt align them properely....

 

just bought a 2010 this week and dont have this issue anymore......

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Pryme ! I was thinking of adding one to my 2024 6.6 gas  . Could you elaborate a bit more on your statement  Thank You 
    • What a wonderful result! Great story telling to. You are quite multifaceted sir.  I'd keep it. Four is my limit too and yet we have five as well. One assigned the 'salt car' to do all those tasks you hate to ask of your 'Save for Good" crowd. 😉    Don't forget the antifreeze.    The Iron 4.3 is a favorite of mine. 
    • Thanks Buck Wallace ! The more owners that tell me they are getting the same noise the more comfortable I will be with it !
    • Ancillary parts to the lower intake and connections went together without issue.   There was a brief pause when I leak-tested the fuel lines and injection system. Fuel was spraying all over. Lovely. O-rings weren't sealing the fuel lines to the spider, and inbound line was leaking at schrader valve, leaks at both flange nuts. It's moments like those when you just want to set fire to the whole shop, and be done with it. I was mostly enjoying the project up until that point, and was tracking to an agenda of having a running Blazer and a cold beverage in hand by dinnertime.    I found some larger Viton o-rings for my spider and some grease to get them to seat. One leak solved. Swapped fuel line Schrader core for old core. Still leaked. Swapped entire valve for old valve. Leak solved. Nudged the flange nuts a little tighter on the connections. Another leak solved. I could cycle the key / prime the pump and the intake was staying dry.    Reassembled the upper intake, with 10,000 vacuum lines, and filled the cooling system with water* (this is temporary, I'm not done with the cooling system yet).   Showtime!!   Cranked it over and smoke billowed, it was running rough. CEL illuminated and began flashing. P0300 and I somehow tripped a code for the TPS sensor, voltage low.    There's nothing as unrewarding as a vehicle that won't run (and produces the same code/problem) after hours of research and work.   Clearly I was in over my head. Was the timing off, did I stab the distributor incorrectly? Is the new distributor bad? With my limited OBD 1.5 data stream I really don't have a lot of parameters to see. The engine was pulling mad timing again (flooding?).   Think, Atlas, think.   1-6-5-4-3-2. One, six, five.....four, three, ....two. Wait a second. That makes no sense. 1 is the forward cylinder on the driver's side, so 2 should be the forward cylinder on the passenger side, not 6.    I can't believe it, but I'm looking right at it. Swapped 2 and 6 on the distributor and turned the key over, and...   It fired, coughed and stumbled, smoked, and then settled into a smooth idle. The scanner showed no codes, no lights on the dash, and the throttle was nice and responsive to gentle revs while it warmed up.   It's working!!! IT'S WORKING!!!   I paused for a late dinner, no cold beverage yet. I was determined to do my shakedown run. Did a basic safety and fluids check one more time and then went out and put almost 70 miles on it last night. She's a runner, runs good.   Came home and did a post-trip, post-mortem. The underside is dry *except* for where the last owner RTV'd the snow out of the intersection of the timing cover and oil pan. He said he had replaced the timing cover seal, but, my dude had clearly done it incorrectly and then tried to hold back fate with black RTV. Never works.   Yesterday morning I replaced the broken driver's door mirror. As much as I hate cheap Chinese parts, thank goodness for cheap Chinese parts. I think an entire new power mirror assembly cost me like $30, and it works perfectly. Replacement tail lights (faded, and one was busted) ran me about $12/side. I have a door pin kit ready to go in because the driver's door sags just a little and I want to fix that because there's nothing sadder than a saggy door.   I don't know what's next for this rig. Half of me wants to take some nice photos (there's a park nearby with a HUGE American Flag that always seems to be catching wind) and throw it up on CL/Marketplace for a couple grand and see if it flies. The other half of me... I've got a sweet running S10 Blazer that's been keeping my mind off of whatever I'm going through right now, and it's bringing some joy, and is cheaper than therapy. Maybe I'll keep it around for a little while. However, this is my 5th vehicle, just for me. 4 is really my limit, but they are not junk, so need very little attention. I don't know...there's a point where it's just too much and I don't see owning this truck long term. But I solved its major problem, got it running, so I'm going to stick a feather in my cap for now.   Sometimes we just need to get our hands dirty and fix something in the physical world to gain some satisfaction.
    • Happy 4th of July! Be safe out there tonight     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...