Jump to content

Cranked the torsion bars up....


Recommended Posts

Posted
on my 02' 1500HD and here is what happened. To begin with, the truck was 3/4" lower on the driver side than the passenger. I took both sides up 6 turns and raised the nose 1 1/2". Still not level side to side though. I then lowered the passenger side a total of 3 turns and now I am a little under the 1 1/2 lift but at a 1/4" side to side difference. By looking at each bolt in the beginning, it appeared that each bolt was adjusted differently anyway(more threads showing on one of the bolts) Truck looks better, any problems with this set up? Will watch for tire wear, but it seems to drive fine. Ideas/Comments :uhoh:
Posted
You should do the safe thing for you and the good thing for your tires and get yourself an alignment.  It will prevent odd tire wear so that your tires have a longer lifespan.  :thumb:
Posted
Keep us updated.  I am going to raise mine this weekend.  I only want to gain about and inch, just enough to level it out a little better.  I was curious how many turns I can go, you said you did 6 and got an inch.  I don't know if the HD's are different than the regular 1500's.  I'll find out soon and post the results...
Posted
I think it’s pretty common that the bolts are threaded in differently on each side.  I cranked mine up 4.5 turns and got a little over an inch.  The right side bolt is almost bottomed out yet the left side has another couple threads left.  The important thing is to get the front of the truck level based on the measurements to the fenders.  4.5 turns still isn't level with the back but it levels out nice when there's a trailer hooked up to the back.  So if you tow a trailer with a tongue weight of around 500 pounds you won't have your nose in the air.  :thumb:
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Just an update, I uploaded a pic of the lift I got. Other than that, the truck is stock as a rock. Check sig for link to pics.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...