Jump to content

Tranny problems

winstonca

Recommended Posts

winstonca Enthusiast

winstonca

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys.  I have posted this at another spot but thought this area would be a better area.  Please let me know if I am in the right place. Here is my problem: I have a 1989 Suburban Silverado 4x4 with a 700R4 tranny that does not shift out of 2nd gear and slips like crazy in reverse. I have three 700R4's at home out of several 88 caprice classics that have 250,000 + but run perfect. Obviously the tail shaft is different but my question is can I take the tail shaft from the blown tranny and put it on the good 700R4 or maybe take the innards from the good tranny and transfer them to the bad one? I love this truck and am desperate to keep her.   If you have any other suggestions please let me know. BTW I have had this tranny rebuilt twice now and am ready for a more permanent fix. :cheers:
winstonca Enthusiast

winstonca

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks for replying. The transfer case bolts to the tail shaft. I have only done a visual on the setup and am wondering if anybody has tried to swap trannys or parts from one to another. I am not sure what kind of alterations I will have to get into to make it work. My garage will only hold one vehical of this size and did not want to tie it up yet until I get an idea of possibe fixes.
Guest Friz

Guest Friz

Posted
Posted

If you talking about the tail shaft HOUSING, I think it would be fine. I remember having to switch between a TH-375 and 400 due to the bell housing bolt pattern and the tranny man told me that the tranny was all built around one single shaft. At any rate, unless you are good with trannies, have someone like Aamco do it.

I confine my work to motors, I've just never been inside an automatic transmission and am not really in a hurry to try it.

Cop_Dodger Enthusiast

Cop_Dodger

Posted
Posted

Most of the parts should be interchangeable.  It depends on the year of the other trannies.  The main differences are in spring pressures and such along with some part updates.  

 

The problem really isn't with the parts unless you brake a "hard part".  If you need just an overhaul you can get all those parts for $100-$150 if you can find where to buy them.  The big ticket is the tools needed.  There are 4 seal tools that you need (about $100 each) and a clutch spring compressor (about $250 depending on quality).  This is why it costs so much to get a tranny worked on.  It's the $3000 in tools they need to work on just one kind of transmission.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,858
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    mark2
    Newest Member
    mark2
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 593 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hoginedgewood
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • Coastie05
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • newdude
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By newdude · Posted

      It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...