Jump to content

Dies At Startup Idle


Recommended Posts

Posted

so i have the 5.7 350 it just turned over 200k. lately its been struggling to start. when it fires up it gets through about 2 seconds and then it chugs out. the only thing i have figured out is that if i give it a little gas when it initially fires up it will not die. then after it actually starts running it will vary the idle by a few hundred rpm at idle until it has 10 or so minutes to warm up. it also has a bit of a lag when you press the gas, you can tell that something is happening in the engine but it sounds like the rpms are not rising as rapidly as they should. so when you hit the gas to move you hear a delay and also feel it as well. my initial thought was the idle air control, but that didnt fix anything. i dont want to keep throwing parts at it. any help would be great.

Posted

Just noticed that its a 90 how does the injector spray look?when was the last time you did a full tune up?could be your iac valve too alot of things it could be.

Posted

I have to agree with Keith's first reaction here... check the fuel pressure and check the spray pattern of the fuel at the throttle body ...

 

I think the TBI engines have a spec fuel pressure of 13 to 15 psi ... and there is not a lot of leeway on that because if you have only 9 or 10 psi, your truck may start to act up just like you are describing ...

 

.. it could be other things too, but check out the fuel pressure and injector spray first

Posted

i have changed the IAC and TPS. still no change. as for the fuel pressure, is it supposed to read 13-15 at idle? i changed the fuel filter about 2 months ago so i doubt its that. but if the pressure is reading below 13 will it be the fuel pump more than likely?

thanks for the help.

Posted

so when its at idle and finally runs ok, after about 5-10 minutes, i can give it some throttle and it will rev up in an ok fashion. when i put it in gear and give it gas, just enough to get it rolling, it chugs out and wants to die. i barely made it back home after it died on the road a couple of times but fortunately i was able to get it restarted and baby it home. i dont have a way to check the fuel pressure but with the intake off i can see a spray coming from both injectors and the quantity increases with an increase in throttle. i did notice that there was a drop or two of fuel running down the middle of the injector bracket. not sure if its getting too much fuel and dying or if its not getting enough.

Posted

... well .... sometimes you just have to find someone, and pay if you have to, to get the diagnostic work done.

 

you need to know your fuel pressure before making the decision if you need a new fuel pump ... they aren't cheap (don't buy a cheap one, get a Delphi or ACDelco) and the labour is kind of a pain in the ass .. so you don't want to do that if it is not necessary

Posted

Could very well be a vacuum leak to replace the TB gasket their know to go these trucks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,004 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...