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Leaky Head Gasket


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Posted
Hello, I'm new to forum and need some advice on a leaking head gasket on '94 Silverado with 350 engine and 115,000 miles. Engine has never gotten overheated nor had any whitish exhaust. You can see where it has leaked due to the whitish color on outside of engine. Mechanic I took it to said it would be best to replace BOTH gaskets and also the valve guide seals since it was already apart. He also will replace with fresh antifreeze. Is replacing BOTH gaskets and valve guide seals wise or is he just wanting to make more $ on labor? He gave me a price of $560- $600 parts and labor. Any of this sound out of line?
Posted

With over 100K on the truck and the fact that you know one gasket is already leaking, replacing both at this time would be considered preventive maintainance IMO.

 

As far as the valve guide seals...  He is right!!!  Go ahead and do them while it's apart.  They will tend to leak if they haven't already started to and then you will have a puff of smoke on start-up to begin with and then it will go down hill from there on.  They are cheap enough that it's good insurance.

 

Also you should have the heads checked for warpage...

Posted

Was that price for him to do all the work? You can save a ton if you pull the heads yourself and install them yourself. It is a piece of cake.

 

There is that saying again, "once of prevention is worth a pound of cure" If you plan on keeping it I would have it done.

Posted

Definately get it done now.  Your mechanic is right, now is a time to do several "little" things while you have the head off.  Valve seals will cost you less than $20 now.  I would also run a can of GM top end cleaner before disassembly.  It will give you cleaner parts to work with.  

 

I would also change the oil and filter right after doing the work, and after a couple of hour driving, maybe a day or two.(again, cheap insurance)  I have heard of quite a few motors failing because of blocked oil passageways almost immediately after the heads have come off. (old gasket material) :thumb:

Posted

94K...welcome to the forum!

 

Your mechanic sounds right on the mark.  The valve guide seals are a definite replacement item while you have the heads off.  Never do one without the other.  Kinda like changing a clutch disk and pressure  plate and sticking the old throw out bearing back in......once you got it apart...might as well do it right.

 

 You can save SOME cash by pulling the heads yourself...BUT...If I were your mechanic, I would not give you a HUGE break for pulling them...in fact if I were doing the job I would prefer to do it myself anyway....never know what kind of headaches you may avoid by letting the pro do the pro thing ya know!

 

Incidentally his price is not out of line either....maybe even a little on the cheap side.  Head jobs are one of those jobs that are cheap on parts and long on labor.  You may ask the machine shop to plane em just a tad when you have em off too.

 

Good luck!

 

CapnDean

Posted
Thanks for all replys guys. I also decided to have the valves ground now too. Mechanic thats doing the work said that would be finishing touch. Add $100 to the already $600 for valve job. Bad timing right here at Christmas but can't complain, 115K and only routine fluid changes, plugs, shocks, brakes and a $50 sensor 8 months ago. :chevy:
Posted

Prices you have seem very reasonable

 

Just a thought to throw in....(prices from PartsZoneOnline.com)

 

L31 (Vortec) complete heads 12558060 $256.20 times 2

TBI Vortec Intake 12496821 $302.08

Self aligning roller rockers Stamped 12495490 $49.05

 

Still need:

Rebuild TBI with 7.4L injectors

Hydro/Roller Cam dual pattern approximate 210/222

bore block .030 over for 355CI

Flat top pistons

Program computer

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