Jump to content

Rough Country 1.25" Body Lift Review


Recommended Posts

Posted

yesterday myself and two friends installed the RC 1.25" BL on my 09 sierra crew cab. we made sure we had all of the proper tools before we got started.

 

i would definately reccommend using a very good jack, i have a small 15" floor jack, and i would reccommend using a larger one that that, as you have to jack up the cab which is alot higher than the frame. we ended up using 6 concrete landscaping blocks, 2 railroad ties, and 3 pieces of 2x4...

 

the front bumper was difficult to figure out and was very time consuming. it doesnt say in the instructions that you have to remove the metal bumper or the body colored upper bumper. when putting the bumper on after everything was done we had to grind off the bumper brackets that connect to the new attached bumper brackets on the frame as the lower piece of metal wouldnt lineup with the top part to put the bumper bolt through the bracket and frame.

 

we didnt have to disconnect any of the steering, but we did pull the battery and both airbag fuses for safety.

 

the cab pucks were very easy to install and find.

 

the bed cabs were harder to get at and locate. there is one in front of the tire (with bolt), and two to the rear of the tire (with bolts). almost right ontop of the rear axel is a spot where there is a cross frame that the puck goes between that and the fram (no bolt). this was hard to find as there was 8 pucks and only 6 bolts, so we knew it had to go soemwhere we just couldnt find it at first.

 

also this kit wasnt designed for a rear bumper with sensors. the new bumper frame piece that goes inside of teh chrome bumper blocks the two inner sensor holes. we had to take a saw with a metal blade and make two V cuts in the metal so we could fit the sensors into it.

 

overall it was a very time consuming build (9 hours) with 3 guys taking a lunch break. i dont know if i would do it again from scratch not knowing what to do as it is alot of work for only 1.25". having said that it was 1/2 the price of the zone 1.5" and 1/4 the price of the zone 3" kit in CANADA.

 

i am very happy with the look of the kit with the 2" levelling kit and 3" rear blocks. now time for bigger tires.

 

any questions feel free to ask.

Posted

looks good. Yeah it is kinda frustrating doing the front end, rc doesnt include instructions for the sierra front bumper so i just downloaded the instructions from Zone. I also didnt disconnect the steering or any grounds, there was plenty of slack in everything. I didnt even need to use the ground extension in the engine bay. Only thing i wish the RC kit had is the spacers for the middle of the bed were the frame touches, right above the bump stop. There is a 1.25" gap there now on mine, zone has metal ones but they are 1.5 inch. O well, i dont carry anything super heavy anyway so no big deal i guess.

Posted

yeah i noticed that about the bed. the instructions for the bed were terrible, they didnt say where they go. the front pucks were easy to find.

 

i didnt disconnect the steering column either. i did disconnect the grounds just to prevent and airbag deployment (i also too out two fuses)

 

i didnt end up using the ground extension either.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...