Lv1G6He3V2 Posted September 22, 2011 Posted September 22, 2011 I recently purchased my first truck. It's a lightly-used '99 Sierra 1500 2WD Ext. Cab w/ a 5.3L V8. :-) Steel wheels w/ chrome plating on front. Chrome is chipping off; back is rusting. 285/60R16 111S Tires - Goodyear Eagle GT II, <50% tread left Sadly, when doing an alignment, the tech said one of the rims is bent. I believe that this causes a shudder or wobble on the rear end, especially at certain speeds. So I'm looking to replace the rims, and possibly the tires. I was hoping to avoid tire replacement for a year or two due to the price, but the long term goal of getting the right size rims is more important. Also I don't want the bent rim to cause wear on other components. EDIT: Tire Rack rep cleared up the miscommunication. Looking at the pictures, what rims/tires would you advise? Feel free to make style suggestions. I'm partial to ATX Artillery or Slots if that helps. I'm open to getting a lift kit installed. However, I do not want the end result (e.g. wheel size increase / 2 + lift) to raise the truck's body more than 4" from where it is. No one wants to keep a stepladder for climbing into the truck bed! This weekend I'm headed to a body shop to get an estimate on some fixing some dents and lots of small paint chips/scratches/wear/bubbling. I will also inquire about fender flares. I'm open to having the body/fenders cut if that will allow bigger tires. If not I will probably have the flares installed anyway for protection from road debris. Highway or low-noise all-terrain tires only, and they must have adequate load rating. (Editing in options now...) Option 1 -- 16" rims, 33" tires, 2.5/1.0" leveling lift 16x8 American Racing Outlaw ($112 ea.), +25mm offset, 5.51" backspacing, machined+clearcoat 16x9 ATX Artillery ($205 ea.), -12mm offset, 4.52" backspacing, chrome plated 16x8 Helo HE791 ($123 ea.), 0mm offset, 4.48" backspacing, black+machined lip 16x8 Ultra Baja Champ ($112 ea.), +10mm offset, 4.88 backspacing, black+machined lip 16x8 Ultra Rogue ($112 ea.), +10mm, 4.84 backspacing, black+machined lip 305/70R16 Firestone Destination A/T ($203 ea.), 32.8" diam., 12.2" width, 3525 lbs. load, 65 psi 285/75R16 Michelin LTX MS/2 ($211 ea.), 32.8" diam., 11.3" width, 3750 lbs. load, 80 psi Truxx Lift and Level Kit 2.5" Front, 1.0" Rear ($201) I like the stats on the Michelin's, and they're designed for a 16x8 wheel. I like the outlaw rims though their style seems more suitable for a Jeep or SUV. What would match my truck? I'm thinking the Ultra Rogue black+machined would do nicely: positive offset, modern appearance, a big chrome center cap, and the design looks easy to clean. Option 2 -- 17" rims, 33" tires, and 2.5/1.0" leveling kit 17x7.5 American Racing AR95T ($138), +25mm offset, 5.23" backspacing, machined+clearcoat 17x9 ATX Artillery ($203), -12mm offset, 4.48" backspacing, chrome plated 17x8 ATX Assault ($139), +25mm offset, 5.47" backspacing, black+machined lip 17x8 ATX Ledge ($239), ? offset, ? backspacing, chrome plated 17x8 ATX Slot ($162), 0mm offset, 4.09" backspacing, black+machined lip 17x9 ATX Slot ($166), -24mm offset, 4.09" backspacing, black+machined lip 17x8 Granite Alloy GA9 ($141), +10mm offset, 4.84" backspacing, black+machined lip 17x8 Granite Alloy GA9 ($141), +25mm offset, 5.47" backspacing, black+machined lip 285/70R17 General Grabber HTS ($196), 33.7" diam., 11.5" width, 3195 lbs. load, 65 psi 285/70R17 Michelin LTX MS/2 ($275), 32.8" diam. 11.5" width, 3195 lbs. load, 65 psi 285/70R17 Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2 ($246), 32.8" diam., 11.5" width, 3195 lbs. load, 80 psi Truxx Lift and Level Kit 2.5" Front, 1.0" Rear ($201) Here I like the Granite Alloy wheels best, but the tires are much more expensive, with worse ratings. 17" rims would probably look better than 16", but with large tires and a lift who would notice? 17" rims appear to be more future-proof as more highway/all-terrain tires are available in this size. Option 3 -- 17/18" rims and >= 2400 lbs. load rating tires (to do)
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted September 28, 2011 Author Posted September 28, 2011 (The edit button seems to have disappeared.) $1500 in repairs recently has hit me hard, so I'm not looking to buy rims+tires. Fortunately the tires seemed to have settled down; now, the only shudder that hits the truck is when braking but I've heard that's normal. Anyone know where to get a replacement rim of same type? Or where to find the dimensions? I can't find a logo/brand anywhere on the front side.
Georgebaumann Posted September 28, 2011 Posted September 28, 2011 shuddering when brake is definantly not normal and if i were u id buy some nice cheap steel wheels from summit or something like 85 a peice. also id jcak it up like 3 or 4 inches and then tires because i bearely noticed when i did the two in i regretted it and put 5 up. next to my truck is 6 more in ontop of my body lift and add a leaf and torsion key lift w/ 37's or 38's good year military ozs
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted September 28, 2011 Author Posted September 28, 2011 Thanks for the advice. You think replacing the bent rim would fix the braking issue? I'm talking to someone about a nice set of used (straight) stock 17" rims I could get really cheap and paint/clearcoat them myself. I'm just double-checking with a tire rep about fitment and compatibility with their 2.5" lift. I've seen these rims with roughly 33" tires (285 width) and they look perfectly matched. Personally, I'm not looking for > 33" tires and noticeable lift. 3-5" net height increase would be ideal. Did your 5" lift affect suspension/handling on-road? If so, what would you do differently?
cparks555 Posted September 28, 2011 Posted September 28, 2011 I'd search the for sale section here and craigslist for a set of stock wheels and tires, you can find a set in great shape for $400-$500. Something like this http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137348
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted September 29, 2011 Author Posted September 29, 2011 I'd search the for sale section here and craigslist for a set of stock wheels and tires, you can find a set in great shape for $400-$500. Something like this http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137348 Thanks, I'll look in those places if I can't make a deal on the set I found. You can see a picture of the type I want here: http://www.hubcaphaven.com/mm5/merchant.mv...tegory_Code=396 Suggestions for a paint style would be much appreciated. I'm thinking either a clearcoat or a two-color job (e.g. bright color for front-facing surfaces, dark color for angled surfaces). I can get gloss, metallic, chrome, flat, etc. paint. The tricky part would be spray-painting the red GMC logo on the center caps. I suppose I'd have to use a template, maybe cut one out of construction paper or really thin cardboard and spray ultra-light coats. But fine-cutting eludes me. I don't mind if painting takes a few weeks. It'll keep me from drooling over tires.
spankrz Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 like said before, i would find a set of stock wheels and tires. those z71 wheels he gave you a link for would look sharp on that truck. even a set of wheels like are on my truck would look decent on it. check out a wheel called "cragar soft 8's". they are dirt cheap, and i would buy a set and put your tires on them. i think they would look sharp on that truck, and would be cheaper than buying used oem.
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted September 29, 2011 Author Posted September 29, 2011 like said before, i would find a set of stock wheels and tires. those z71 wheels he gave you a link for would look sharp on that truck. even a set of wheels like are on my truck would look decent on it. check out a wheel called "cragar soft 8's". they are dirt cheap, and i would buy a set and put your tires on them. i think they would look sharp on that truck, and would be cheaper than buying used oem. Ah, I've already committed to a price on used OEM's - waiting to close the deal. I had no idea the Cragar wheels were so inexpensive, with chrome or powdercoat. Plus they have cheap spacer/lug nut kits that can push the wheels further out if desired. Jegs.com seems to have good prices/selection. R16 tires are much cheaper than R17 for same diameter, too. But I like the taller, straighter look of the OEM 17x7.5 rims w/ 33" tires... I'll have to think about it for a while.
Stevens03 Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 My picks 16x9 ATX Artillery ($205 ea.), -12mm offset, 4.52" backspacing, chrome plated 16x8 Helo HE791 ($123 ea.), 0mm offset, 4.48" backspacing, black+machined lip Black wheels look awesome with a red truck but I do like the Artillery Chrome too.
Georgebaumann Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Thanks for the advice. You think replacing the bent rim would fix the braking issue? I'm talking to someone about a nice set of used (straight) stock 17" rims I could get really cheap and paint/clearcoat them myself. I'm just double-checking with a tire rep about fitment and compatibility with their 2.5" lift. I've seen these rims with roughly 33" tires (285 width) and they look perfectly matched. Personally, I'm not looking for > 33" tires and noticeable lift. 3-5" net height increase would be ideal. Did your 5" lift affect suspension/handling on-road? If so, what would you do differently? for the braking issue , it sounds like ur rotors are warped and need to be replaced and for my lift it didnt affect anything really besides a little stiffer ride with the cranked keys and add a leaf but the only thing id change is go and buy a full suspnsion lift in the first place and then later do the body lift.
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted September 30, 2011 Author Posted September 30, 2011 My price was accepted so the stock machined 17x7.5 +31mm wheels will arrive next week. $245 for the set. The savings vs. aftermarket wheels I wanted are enough to cover the fuel pump replacement bill, so I'm happy again. Tires will have to wait until I get the dealer to exorcise my possessed electronics. Painting ideas, anyone? Two-tone, metallic, chrome, black chrome, matte, gloss etc. EDIT: The wheels haven't arrived yet, but I have created a preliminary list of things to do: Spray one side with oven cleaner, leave sit overnight, and rinse thoroughly next morning. Repeat for other side. (This is said to strip clearcoat, paint, grease, and other dirt from surfaces.) Wear gloves while spraying and wear clean gloves while handling (including using masking tape) to avoid transferring fingerprints to bare metal surfaces. Mask off spokes, rim, center/hub area, and angled surfaces intended for chrome. Spray one coat of etching primer. Spray several coats of black paint to exposed areas; finish with clearcoat. Remove masking tape while wet. Let dry overnight. Repeat procedure to mask off black areas and apply chrome paint to exposed areas. I photo-edited some areas darker to see which angled surfaces I should paint black. I like option B because it would make the wheel appear larger yet preserve the angled edges of the spokes.
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Posted October 2, 2011 for the braking issue , it sounds like ur rotors are warped and need to be replaced and for my lift it didnt affect anything really besides a little stiffer ride with the cranked keys and add a leaf but the only thing id change is go and buy a full suspnsion lift in the first place and then later do the body lift. Thanks, I'm taking it to a dealer on Monday for some other issues, so I could have them check the rotors/drums. I'd have thought the mechanic who checked the brakes and replaced the pads/bearings as needed (and did alignment/balancing) would have checked the rotors and drums. The braking issue could be caused by that bent right rear wheel, eh? I want to avoid unnecessary repair bills -- looks like I'll be calling to see if the rotors and drums were already checked. I don't know if this means anything, but the shuddering disappears under heavy braking.
Lv1G6He3V2 Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 The wheels are here! The center caps have a top-half which appears to be made of aluminum. If that's true I may want to sand and polish the aluminum face on the wheels and caps for a mirror finish, then re-apply clearcoat. I'm not sure how/if the rubber is to be removed from the tire-mounting area.
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