Jump to content

Leveling Kits and tire size..


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have the money for my leveling kit (all I can do w/o voiding extended warranty) and tires - I just don't know which to go with. I want to run 33's, but don't want them to be tight in the wheel-well...I like the 3.5" kit, but that requires lowering the front differential.

 

What have some of y'all done and experienced?

Posted

i threw in a 2" leveling kit, and plan on running 33s. i'll trim a bit if they rub, but should be fine

Posted

i threw in a 2" leveling kit, and plan on running 33s. i'll trim a bit if they rub, but should be fine

 

I've heard people say they'll trim, but don't understand what they're talking about.

 

I found a 2.5" kit that guarantees being able to run 33" tires. I THINK I can install it, but I'll definitely check around to see what it would cost me to do.

Posted

I have a 2" level kit for sale 30 bucks i have 1.5 right now waiting for the other inch to come in and i fit 305/60/18 i barely had to trim the plastic but thats it

post-98409-0-48583900-1325906654_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-87281300-1325906663_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-48583900-1325906654_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-87281300-1325906663_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-48583900-1325906654_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-87281300-1325906663_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-48583900-1325906654_thumb.jpg

post-98409-0-87281300-1325906663_thumb.jpg

Posted

I've installed 285/75r18(34.5/11r18 installed) and put bushwacker cut-out flares, trimmed a bit on the front of the fender(under the splash shield, trimmed a but on the rad support where the windshield waser bottle is, which isnt part of the structural support for the front end, i installed the rancho level strut assembly and procomp metal mulisha rims @5" offset. fills the wheel well great. a;; was done at my shop on a saturday. I wanted to run closest to 35s without a lift. minor rubbing but 1.25" rc body lift should take care of this, its at full lock and on uneven terrain backing up.....

Phil

Posted

i put a 2.5" leveling kit on my silverado. after that and the 1.5" body lift i have 34s on it and theres not even an inkling of rubbing at all. when these tires wear out i may try to stuff a bit wider tires in (currently 285/75/17)

 

IMO, go smaller than 2.5, when you keep extending the shocks like i did, you get a crappier ride. at 2.5 i feel like the shocks are pretty much fully extended, if i didnt want to get the biggest tires in without a suspension lift, i would have went with a 2" (idealy) leveling kit

Posted

I had 305 60 18 cooper STT (32.5") on my 09 crew cab with a 2.5 ccm kit. Had them on XD Monsters with a +18 offset. No rubbing what so ever. Never had to trim anything

Posted

2.5" leveling kit doesnt change the Front suspesion length at all... if i had to do it all over again, i would do a 2.5" leveling kit, 2.25" rear block, and either 1.25BL, or 1.5BL to net close to 4" of lift.

Posted

Thanks for all the replies y'all! I'm gonna go ahead and go with 2.5" leveling kit - now I just need to decide which brand.

 

I have Black Rhino Rockwells (-12 offset) on my truck now. Will this affect what size tires I'll be able to run? Maybe a 1" body lift will be necessary too.

 

Is this the CCM kit: http://www.ccmoffroad.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=23

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...