When to say goodbye

Burrito · February 6, 2012

Guys I could sure use some input. I'm struggling with the inevitable dilemna of when to sell the truck and start over with a new/newer one. The short of it - I bought my 2001 2500HD 4X4 CCSB in 2004 with 77K miles on it. It now has 160K miles on it. It's been a decent truck.

Repairs made:

The transfer case had to be replaced at around 80K (the dreaded leak made it lose all it's fluid) $2100
Knock sensors were replaced shortly after due to a spark knock with 87 octane fuel. However it did not fix the problem. $275
Did a top end clean by a shop, but that still didn't get rid of the spark knock. Started running 93 octane only and it doesn't knock. $150
Had a wheel hub replaced at around 140K I think. $400
Other than that just small stuff plus general maintenance.

Current issues:

Sending unit on fuel pump is out
I have the cold start knock
A little piston slap (I think) at idle
Still have the spark knock with 87 octane fuel (none with 93 octane)
Badly cracked windshield
I recently developed an exhaust manifold leak

I'm taking the truck to the shop next week to get the exhaust leak fixed. I'm going to have them give their opinion of the spark knock and the piston slap. Also, I'm due for new tires in less than 5K miles.

Here are the 2 routes I'm considering:

Get the exhaust manifold leak fixed, fix the cracked windshield, replace the fuel pump (myself), and then sell it. +/-$900 in repairs.
Or, get the items in #1 fixed, plus do what it takes to eliminate the spark knock (???), see if the piston slap may be something more severe (rocker arms), and get new tires. +$900 + $1300 = $2200. And expect that the original tranny may go out within +/-30K miles, so add $2000 to the $2200 to get $4200.

I would greatly appreciate you putting yourself in my shoes to help me make the decision to fix and hold, or fix the bare essentials and sell. I am in the position to afford a newer vehicle. I'm leaning toward a 2009 2500HD 6.0 4X4 CCSB, or a new 2012 Dodge 2500 4X4 diesel.

redjewel2ss · February 6, 2012

having to use higher octane fuel in older engines is normal. not sure why, i think it has to do with compression changing over time. check this out:

http://www.epinions....2346164356?sb=1

IMO, i would get the immediate repairs done now, throw a set of cheap new tires on, get it looking all purdy with a good detail, keep using premium fuel so its knot knocking on potential buyers' test drives, and sell it.

Doug_Scott · February 6, 2012

I have found that once I started trying to justify it, it was inevitable. You are in a slightly different spot though. I am not a fan of buying primary transportation used.

Stick an ad in the local buy and sell (or whatever they them now), with a price that is on the high side, should be high enough to make you happy to sell at that price, but not so high no one looks at it. Once you find out what you would really get for your truck, then start looking for something that you fancy.

r1byker · February 6, 2012

It seems to me to depend on whether you love the truck or not. If you do, fix it and keep it; the cheapest truck is the one you own. If you don't love it, fix it so it's appealing to a buyer and sell it, and then get yourself a newer truck.

gmtech4 · February 6, 2012

skid the old girl

lol

99 2500 · February 7, 2012

Try cleaning the mass air flow sensor, this usually takes care of the spark knock problem.

Burrito · February 7, 2012

Try cleaning the mass air flow sensor, this usually takes care of the spark knock problem.

Done that quite a few times, with no result. In fact, that's one thing I forgot to mention in the "current issues" category. When I'm towing, sometimes the check engine light comes on. I went to AutoZone once or twice and they've read the code, and it says it's the MAF sensor. I've cleaned it numerous times with electronics cleaner, but it continues to do this. The check engine light will go off a couple days after it comes on, if I'm don't continue to tow with it. So yet another thing to repair......

This is why I think I'm ready to cut ties with this truck. I don't want it to nickel and dime me, when I could apply that to a newer vehicle. The discouraging side of replacing the truck is the cost to purchase new or newer trucks. I don't like to have car notes, but I will have to borrow some to replace mine with what I want - something equivalent in features, or more.

markw8 · February 7, 2012

Maybe time to do a decarbon.

Mark

nashss · February 7, 2012

well consider what your truck payments would be and how much your borrowing to get a newer truck. Would keeping your current truck be cheaper then getting a newer one? Newer does not mean no repairs. Every vehicle is going to have repairs at one point or another but seeing the money you put into yours for 100k miles I don't see as bad personally and I would not run 87 in a HD period at least try 89 I dont run anything under 89 in any of my vehicles its just for 4 bangers IMO not people with 6 or 8's especially trucks. Every vehicle needs tires at one point or another so you cant use that as an excuse to get a newer truck.

99 2500 · February 7, 2012

Since the computer is throwing a code for MAF sensor, a new one should definitely fix the spark knock.

jro909 · February 7, 2012

it'd be cheaper to take it to a dealer have them remedy all the problems then buy new...these trucks last a long time they aren't throw aways

Burrito · February 17, 2012

Just picked up my truck from the shop. They replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets. $365 job. They had to extract/drill 4 bolts that had broken/missing heads.

I'm still tossing back and forth the idea of selling this one and getting something new or newer. I'm trying to decide whether to replace the fuel pump before listing it. It's about a $300 job for me to do myself. For the average buyer of a truck like mine in it's current state (2001 2500HD with 160K miles), would it make or break a sale if the fuel gauge didn't work? I don't want to spend the $300 and a Saturday replacing the fuel pump if it's likely not going to change the mind of the buyer. But I'll never know until I go one way or another. There's no problem with fuel delivery. It's just the sending unit in the fuel pump is bad, making the gas gauge bounce all over the place and not read accurately. What do yall think?

Edit: Just called the local chevy house and they quoted $470 for the AC Delco fuel pump. Rockauto.com shows an AC Delco for $237. And Oreilly has an Airtex for $270 and a Delphi for $320. That's quite a difference in prices. If I'm going to fix it then sell it, I'll probably just go with the cheapest, don't you think?