Jump to content

Supercharger pulley


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am in the process of buying a tvs1900 system for my truck and wondered what would be the smallest sized pulley i could run?? For the most power? Thanks!

Posted

You sure haven't given people much information to work with here. What engine do you have? What are the current mods? Then there are other things that come into play, such as what other changes are you planning at the same time? You will need more fuel delivery for more boost, which may mean a larger pump, along with higher flow injectors.

 

I would recommend talking to Justin at Blackbear Performance to see what he recommends (he can also set you up with the supercharger and a tune to make sure everything plays nice together).

Posted

Whoever you buy it through should be able to get a pulley for you based on your tune. Like the above mentioned, you need to give more info on your set up. We sell Magnachargers, more than happy to help you with more info.

Posted

Okay yes. Its a 6.0 vortec max, 4l65, cai,headers, cats deleted, true dual exhaust. The kit includes upgraded fuel pump, injectors. I'm getting all the work done at davenport motor sports and want to get the most power for the amount of money it is costing. Thanks

Posted

How much is it costing you? I have been thinking of going through the engine on my truck and want a supercharger.

Posted

The absolute smallest size TVS1900 drive pulley that will fit without any machine work on the front housing is a 2.75" Dia pulley. I'm not saying you should be using that small a pulley but it will fit. It's only available in a 10 rib but it will work with a 6 or 8 rib set up but the belts won't last too long unless you use at least a 8 rib belt. Unless your engine and tune are set up right it won't last as long as the belt.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,859
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    needafix
    Newest Member
    needafix
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 486 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...