Jump to content

New truck time for lift and tires


BabyJesus

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello my fellow Silverado/Sierra owners, I have been reading through your forums and I am glad to say I have finally joined given my recent purchase of my new 2011 Silverado. It's got the 4.8, 3.42 gears. Okay so here is my question. I am going to be towing an 18'ft boat and I have already ordered the RC level kit, thanks to you guys on here. My question is do i go with 275/70/17 to be safe given the motor and gears or bump and do the 285/70/17? Anyone have the 285's same motor and gears? Is it a total dog, expereinces? How bad with the tire change affect shifting in the tranny?

 

I am planning on the Black Bear tuner to help compensate.

 

Thanks for any advice,

Andrew

Posted

It weighs about 3000lbs fully loaded.

 

I tired to put a pic on here of my truck but it was too big of a file. It is a 4x4 LS Crew Cab. Stock tires 265/70/17

Posted

ah.. you shouldn't hardly know its back there. :thumbs:

 

Now when you bump up in tire size you may want to look at a gear swap since you don't have the 6-speed. 3.42's a little weak, 4.10's would be a better choice for that size tire :thumbs:

Posted

the leveling kit will make it look great but you might want a little more,

SOme companys offer a 285 75 17 its like 34" tall X 11 wide

I have a 5 speed allison with 4:10 rear and its not to much..with a 6 speed tranny i think 4:10,s for you would be great. Maybe a comp cam then the black bear tune..

Im going with long tubes headers and a raylar cam..not sure if raylar makes anything for the smaller engines, my girlfreinds 5.3 tahoe has edelbrock headers and they work great

Posted

The truck will pull it fine stock, the tires may make it a bit more difficult but it'll still pull just fine. I would go with a 275 for less strain. If you are pulling 3000lb twice a week then I'd consider changing the gears but in the end there shouldn't be an issue.

Posted

Thanks for the replies, i was thinking the same thing with going 275 and too not totally kill the torque in the motor. Also, do you guys normally pull with o/d or 3rd?

Posted

You having the 4-speed, you'll just have to judge it for yourself. If the trucks constantly hunting for gears, then yes... If it's not... then no. Use the tow/haul button... it works :thumbs:

Posted

The 275's will suck less power than the 285's. My old '06 had the 5.3, 3:42's, and 4-speed. I ran heavy 285's....and it was a dog. A tune will help....as well as towing in 3rd so it's not hunting for gears all the time.

Posted

The 4L60 should do you good. Service it as required, depending on how you use the truck and it should do good. Any issues with anything, just exercise your warranty.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,215 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...