Jump to content

Couple of questions in one thread...


Recommended Posts

Posted

Questions about my 1500 gasser...

 

1. I bought a leveling kit off eBay, bash away haha.

It is a 2.5" top spacer and rear blocks.

I'm okay with the front spacer being just an upper strut and not a lower strut, but my question is:

the rear blocks they included are 1", therefore i have to stack them with my current factory blocks - is this a problem in the future????

 

 

2. Gearing: I screwed up and ordered this truck with 3.08 gears. I am either putting 33/12.50R20 or 305/55R20 with +18 offset. With that being said, I need lower gears. I do no offroading, only HWY. Will I be okay with 3.42's or should i get 3.37? 4.10's are not an option. OR...will I be okay with what I have now? Also, custom tuning will come shortly after the re-gear.

 

Thanks in advance guys!

Posted

Well scratch the first question, the seller i purchased them from is over-nighting me 2" rear blocks because his picture in the posting was wrong! sweet!

Posted

As far as gearing goes....you could always try running the 3:08's for a while....heck, they're already paid for, haha. If your truck is having trouble holding or maintaining 6th gear on the highway (which it probably will after the lift and tires)...you can try running it in M5 and see how it does. Heck, I do that with mine when I'm driving in hilly terrain....and I've got 3:42's with the 6.0. It may just cruise right along around 1800-2000 rpms in 5th gear...and seldom down shift. As far as acceleration, a custom tune will help if you're still unhappy. You'll need one anyway if you change gears later. IMO, a gear change on a new truck would be my last choice.

Posted

stacking can be a problem. You may want to have them welded so they don't slip or twist.

 

IMO you should do it the right way & get yourself a 3" tapered blocks for the rear. Better and safer this way.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone4S

using Tapatalk

Posted

Won't be stacking. Using a 2" tapered block for the rear.

 

As for the gearing, I guess I'll try it out and see how it works out.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
    • Looks nice. I still have my 2000, 1500. Bought a 2025, 1500 for retirement. Feels solid. These trucks have a bad rap on the internet. My brother has a `24 1500, 5.3 with 52,000 miles. No problems at all. Mine hasn`t either but mine`s only at 12,700 miles. Have seen some of these things with 100,000 miles with no problems.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...