2009 Silverado Crew Cab System Install

[cjt28]

I've wanted to do this thread for awhile. I figure it would be beneficial to those who are interested in doing the same. Just to run down the key items installed:

 

Head Unit - Kenwood DNX9990HD

Front Speakers - JL Audio C3-650, Convertible Component/Coaxial Speakers

Rear Speakers - JL Audio C5-650, Coaxial Speakers

Amplifier - JL Audio HD900/5

Tsunami Capacitor HCAP 5-5 Farad

Sound Deadening materials from Second Skin Automotive Insulation

 

I'll be sure to include the other items I purchased to aid in installing the items listed above. FYI - I originally started an installation some months ago, but wasn’t pleased and wanted to go all out. Thus, I sort of restarted the installation. So if you see some items already installed, bear with me as I will attempt to cover every part of the installation. My main reference was the user SKANK!’s thread: 2010 Silverado Crew Cab System Install!, http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=129047&st=0 Shout out to him. I looked at his thread daily and even asked him question directly. That thread helped a lot.

[cjt28]

I’ll start with the installation of the sound deadening. I purchased the bulk of my materials from Second Skin Automotive Insulation and one product from Sound Deadener Showdown. The items and quantities I purchased are below:

 

Second Skin Automotive Insulation:

• Vibration Damper - 1 Shop Pack Damplifier Pro - 80 sq feet
  
• Luxury Liner Pro - 10 sheets Luxury Liner Pro [Consists CCF (foam) and MLV pressed together]
  
• Second Skin Contact Spray Adhesive – 3 cans
  
• Wooden hand roller
  
• 150 ft roll foil insulation tape
  
• 4 Speaker Tweakers
  
• Heat Wave Pro hood kit
  

 

Sound Deadener Showdown:

• Fleece tape – 1 roll
  

 

[cjt28]

First Step – Sound Deadening for Floor

 

• Seats came out along with carpet, insulation and plastic form
  
• Here’s pictures of the floor bare
  

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• CLD tiles installed over entire floor
  

 

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• Luxury Liner Pro (LLP) being prepped. I traced the carpet’s cutouts on the LLP. When installing I had to make additional cuts; trim to fit. I used Gorilla duct tape to seal the seams. When LLP floor layer was rolled up to take to the truck, the seams held.
  

 

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• I put back the factory insulation and installed the LLP on top. The LLP is HEAVY! I had to trim a good majority of the front and rear of the LLP for it to fit easily.
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• The carpet reinstalled. Placing the LLP made the floor a lot softer as a seat for the other work.
  

 

 

 

[cjt28]

Second Step - Sound Deadening the Back Wall

• Up next was installing CLD tiles on the back wall. I placed tiles over the entire bottom surface and small pieces at the top.
  

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• LLP installed (with Contact Spray adhesive) and sealed with the Gorilla duct tape. Sorry about the picture quality. Pictures were taken with my iPhone.
  

 

 

[cjt28]

Third Step - Mounting the Board for the Amplifier and Capacitor

• Like SKANK!, I decided to mount a board to the back wall for my amplifier and capacitor. I bought a 5 mm thick, 4’ x 8’ board from Home Depot for about $10. The employee cut it to about 1’ ¾” x 3’. I can’t remember the exact size but be sure to measure multiple times to ensure it fits properly. I bought black felt from ‘Anna’s Linens.’ You need only a yard of material. I used the contact spray adhesive to adhere the felt to the board. I used a utility knife to cut out for the seatbelt bracket.
  

 

• The felt wasn't as snug as I wanted to be, but when i screwed the amplifier and capacitor mounting screws into the board, the felt snugged up and all the wrinkles went away.
  

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• The board mounted. I believe I used 1 ¼” screws with about 3 washers to account for the spacing. Although 5 mm is thin, the board was pretty rigid once in place.
  

 

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• Amplifier and capacitor mounted with ¼” screws. I also put back the factory insulation. I trimmed the insulation to make room for the board. I screwed up cutting the insulation the first go round so I bought another piece from GMpartsdirect.com.
  

 

[cjt28]

Fourth Step – Sound Deadening the Roof

• SKANK!’s post tells you were to look for screws to drop the headliner. You’ll have to remove the pillars to make clearance for the headliner to drop. All of them: A, mid and rear need to come out.
  

 

• You’ll see caps to remove to get to most of the screws. Look for the caps around the visor as well. You’ll need a torx bit to remove those. The clear plastic cover on the roof console snaps out and you’ll see two screws holding it in place. It took awhile for me to get mine down, just remember to be patient and take your time.
  

 

• There’s a sub harness glued to the headliner. I initially thought about removing it so that I could the take the headliner out but changed my mind and decided to work with it inside.
  

 

 

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• CLD tiles installed.
  

 

 

[cjt28]

 

• LLP installed – held on by spray adhesive and ¾” screws with neoprene washers. Similar to mounting the board, there’s a gap between the exterior and interior metal that allows a screw to fit without protruding. I predrilled all the holes to ease installation of the LLP onto the roof. Be sure to lay a sheet over the headliner and other items for overspray. Gorilla duct tape used to seal the seams. Be ready to have tired arms, shoulders and traps.
  

 

• I screwed one end of the LLP first, glued and then secured the other end with screws.
  

 

 

 

 

• CLD strips placed near the rear just about wherever I could fit them.