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2009 Silverado Crew Cab System Install


cjt28

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Posted

Fifth Step - Doors

 

Here's a good video on how to remove the panels:

Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgf0S6x0-lM

Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCbufraxXto

  • Once you remove the front panel the rear becomes easy. With the panel off the first thing I did were place CLD strips. The speaker and dynamat tile were already installed from my first attempt.
  • I then installed the LLP on the inside of the door. To me this method was easier than installing it on the outer skin. It was time consuming however as it took a while to measure and cut several pieces. Once in the LLP set up nicely and didn’t interfere with the window mechanism.
  • Also installed were the Speaker Tweakers behind each speaker. Used the spray adhesive to adhere.
  • Up next was the mounting of the crossover. I followed SKANK!’s placement. I then wired the crossover and speaker.
  • Be sure to zip tie the speaker wires to factory wires. I learned the hard way when the wires were pulled out as they didn’t clear the window. Or use whatever method preferred to ensure the wires don’t interfere. I had to take all the doors apart again to fix the issue.
  • Work in progress pictures below.

 

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Posted

 

  • Here's a picture from my first attempt. It shows how I ran the wire through the door grommets. I had some plastic wire organizers left over from another project. They were near the TV cable in Home Depot. 1) Insert plastic in grommet, 2) Insert wire through plastic. It will take a bit of force to get the plastic through the grommet but this method worked well.

 

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Posted

 

  • Pictures of the rear doors. I had to use a small bracket that came with the speakers to mount crossovers on the rear door.

 

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Posted

Sixth Step - Wiring the Amplifier and Capacitor.

  • I bought a set of zip ties with screw holes to mount the wiring to the board.

 

 

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  • Brought the sub in to test everything out.

 

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Posted

Finished the wiring and mounted the JL Audio Stealtbox.

 

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  • Head unit in the dash. If you look at the bottom of the dash, you'll see the bass knob and USB ports. I screwed this up somewhat and I'll redo it. Some pics of that small project are below.

 

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Posted

 

  • Well, I gotta go back to work. I'll try to make edits and add additional information as I think of it. When I’m back, I’ll tune the system.

 

 

  • Also, I still have to mount the rear view camera. I'll need some help with that. I have the Kenwood CMOS-310 camera. I thought about mounting the it in the tailgate gate handle similar to the factory rear view camera.

 

Posted

Bought the camera I needed. Should work perfectly. In case anyone is interested, I plan to sell my Kenwood CMOS-310 camera.

 

The new camera I bought came from Camera Source and includes a chrome handle. Here's the link: http://www.camera-so...p-camera-chrome

 

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The USB cables I'll replace with the ones currently installed. Search "Clarion CCAUSB USB 2.0 on Amazon:

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Posted

Were removing your door panels much harder than the video? i noticed the one in the video is the upper model one and not the one you have ( i have the same ones. its the SLE trim on the GMC I don't know what the chevy level is called)

Posted

It's pretty much the same. There are two panels that pop out, one behind handle and the other inside in the arm rest. Remove the bolts after removing the panels. You'll have to pry the unit with the buttons off. And then pry the panel away from the door. I bought a special pry tool from Advance Auto. I'm sure other auto stores have it as well.

 

Once the panel is off, you'll have to remove the cable from the panel. A trick that helped me was to turn the panel upside down to access the cable easier. Grab a set of needle nose pliers and squeeze the ends of the plastic clip (with the cable inside of it) and force it back through the hole. Its kind of hard to explain but you should be able figure it out. Once the cable is freed, the panel will be completely removed.

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