Left cylinder head removal

[TireSmoker]

2006 5.3 vin T, I'm about to remove my heads to replace lifters - I'm on step 1. I have the factory manual, which says to remove the generator bracket. This contains a reference to generator removal, which I did however I only had a few minutes to work. I did look at the bracket and it looks like this bracket also holds the power steering pump.

 

There is no reference in the instruction to removing the pump from the bracket.

 

I just haven't gotten back to work on it yet, I will tonight, but I'm curious, will I be removing the bracket from the head, and just setting it aside with the pump in place, is the pump actually separate and I just don't see that yet, or will I have to remove the pump also?

[Carder09]

So you have a factory manual you are working with? I suggest you pick up a Haynes or Chilton before you get too far, they can save you some headaches down the road.

[jmpidgeo]

you should be able to remove the bracket with the pump attached and move it aside. If you do wish to remove the pump from the bracket, you'll need to get a pulley puller to remove the power steering pulley before you can gain access to the pump mounting bolts. At least, that is what I can remember from performing the pump change on my '04 6.0L when I had it. I'm pretty sure that is what is is needed to remove the pump. Just going off of memory here.

[txab]

you should be able to remove the bracket with the pump attached and move it aside. If you do wish to remove the pump from the bracket, you'll need to get a pulley puller to remove the power steering pulley before you can gain access to the pump mounting bolts. At least, that is what I can remember from performing the pump change on my '04 6.0L when I had it. I'm pretty sure that is what is is needed to remove the pump. Just going off of memory here.

 

 

+1

 

Remove the bracket and it will move forward enough to remove the head.

[TireSmoker]

Cool, thanks. I'll be leaving the pump in place, no need to do work I don't need to do.

 

Why would a Haynes or a Chiltons save me headaches over a full factory manual?

 

Thanks again,

Dave

[TireSmoker]

Another question please -

 

is it possible to remove the lower head bolts without completely removing the exhaust manifolds? It sure doesn't look like it - I have them unbolted from the heads. I'll be at the point tomorrow night where I can remove the heads.

 

Thanks,

Dave

[gmtech4]

this is from factory manual, IDK what you have ....

 

Cylinder Head Replacement - Left Side

Tools Required

•
J
42385-200 Thread Repair Kit

•
J 45059
Angle Meter

Removal Procedure

1.
Remove the generator bracket. Refer to Generator
Replacement .

2.
Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Intake
Manifold Replacement .

3.
Remove the coolant air bleed pipe. Refer to Engine Coolant
Air Bleed Pipe Replacement .

4.
Remove the left exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust
Manifold Replacement - Left Side .

5.
Remove the pushrods. Refer to Valve Rocker
Arm and Push Rod Replacement .

Important: The cylinder head
bolts are NOT reusable.

6.
Remove the cylinder head
bolts.

Notice: After removal, place the cylinder head on 2 wood blocks in order to
prevent damage to the sealing surfaces.

1.
Remove the cylinder
head.

1.
Remove and discard the cylinder head
gasket.

2.
If required, clean and inspect the cylinder
head. Refer to Cylinder Head
Cleaning and Inspection .

Installation Procedure

 

Caution: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

Notice:
Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the
engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material
may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to
components. Important:

•
Do not reuse the cylinder head bolts. Install
NEW cylinder head bolts during assembly.

•
Do not use any type of sealant on the
cylinder head gasket (unless specified).

•
The cylinder head gaskets must be installed
in the proper direction and
position.

1.
Clean the engine block cylinder head bolt holes
(if required).

Thread repair tool J 42385-107, found in J
42385-200 may be used to clean the threads of old threadlocking
material.

2.
Use spray cleaner to clean out the hole. Refer
to Adhesives,
Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers for the correct part
number.

3.
Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with
compressed air.

4.
Check the cylinder head locating pins for
proper installation, location (a) 8.3 mm
(0.327 in).

1.
When properly installed, with FRONT on the left
side, the tab on the cylinder head gasket should be located left of center or
closer to the front of the
engine.

1.
Install the NEW cylinder head
gasket.

1.
Install the cylinder
head.

1.
Install NEW cylinder head
bolts.

Notice: Refer to
Fastener
Notice .

1.
Tighten the cylinder head
bolts.

Tighten

1.1.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1–10) a
first pass in sequence to 30 N·m
(22 lb ft).

1.2.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1–10) a
second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using J
45059 .

1.3.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1–10) a
final pass to 70 degrees using J 45059
.

1.4.
Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11–15) to
30 N·m (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side,
work outward tightening all of the bolts.

 

2.
Install the pushrods. Refer to Valve Rocker
Arm and Push Rod Replacement .

3.
Install the left exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust
Manifold Replacement - Left Side .

4.
Install the coolant air bleed pipe. Refer to Engine Coolant
Air Bleed Pipe Replacement .

5.
Install the intake manifold. Refer to Intake
Manifold Replacement .

6.
Install the generator bracket. Refer to Generator
Replacement .

[gmtech4]

note the "not reusable head bolts" part

[TireSmoker]

Thanks - I do have the factory manual, and I do have new head bolts.

 

What I'm asking is, when removing the heads, do the exhaust manifolds have to be removed completely from the truck, which is what the manual instructs, or can they just be unbolted from the heads? If I remove one, will I then have enough clearance with the other so that I can leave it on the pipe? Again, I'm just wondering, I'll be figuring it out when I get home from work.

 

Thanks,

Dave

[jmpidgeo]

Thanks - I do have the factory manual, and I do have new head bolts.

 

What I'm asking is, when removing the heads, do the exhaust manifolds have to be removed completely from the truck, which is what the manual instructs, or can they just be unbolted from the heads? If I remove one, will I then have enough clearance with the other so that I can leave it on the pipe? Again, I'm just wondering, I'll be figuring it out when I get home from work.

 

Thanks,

Dave

i really don't understand your question. Why not just remove the extra 3 nuts and pull it off? Would probably make lifting the head out of the way easier too.

[TireSmoker]

I can't get those %$#@#$ things to move. I torched 'em, I sprayed 'em and let 'em sit overnight and sprayed 'em again, I can't move a single one of the manifold pipe collar nuts on either side. I also could not move the O2 sensors, for the life of me, all that stuff on that end of the manifolds is welded together.

 

In the end, I was able to get the heads off without removing the manifolds. This was difficult on the passenger side for only one bolt. And, I was pretty happy to find one beat up lifter, and also to see that the corresponding cam lobe looks good. So, I'm really hoping here that I can stick 16 new lifters in, bolt this sh*t back up and go. I'm getting a little sore.

[gmtech4]

i get what u mean ...glad you got it ,,,however those studs /nuts are a PITA ,i hope you tried air after using heat ,if they broke ,who cares the manifold is comin off any ways and can remove studs on the bench ,not fun i know