Jump to content

Driveline clunk in 99 Tahoe


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone expereince this (1999 4 wheel drive Tahoe)

Accelerating gradually from a stop, the truck begins to move forward a few feet and then I hear a clunk like there was slack in the drivetrain. The truck keeps moving forward and doesn't make the clunk until I stop again.

 

Sometimes the clunck occurs as the truck comes to a stop also.

 

If I accelerate hard from a stop the clunck occurs immediately as the truck moves forward. The sound and feel is the same asaccelerating gradually.

 

I decribed this to a follow Chevy truck ower who said it sounded like a problem he had. He said the dealer adjusted or replaced the thrust washer, but it did not fix the problem.

 

Any ideas on what is causing this. The most unusual thing is that the truck will start to accelerate forward like everything is nice and tight and then "clunck" while its moving. I checked the drive shafts and universal joints and they appear to be tight.

Posted

It sounds like the slip yoke problem alot of people are having.  There is a TSB to replace it with a "nickle plated" slip yoke.  If you still have some warranty left then GM will foot the bill.

 

I've also heard of people removing the shaft and greasing the yoke and putting a "superball" in the hole before they reinstalled it.  I don't know if that is a good idea or not though...

 

Just greasing the splines should help for awhile...

Posted
I've also heard of folks remedying this problem by replacing their transfer case fluid with the newer Autotrack II fluid (blue stuff).  I've got the "clunk" problem too on my '99 tahoe as well.  Going to replace the TC fluid this weekend.  I'll let you know how it works out...
Posted
I just got mu truck back yesterday with the same probelm and the dealer greased the yoke and replaced the u-joints. the problem is gone now...
Posted
I've had the lube, the blue juice, and the nickel yoke put in mine and she's quiet now...thankfully.  The spline grease job would work for a while it seemed, then come back.
Posted

Hey folks, Jared here...

 

Anyone know the part number on that "nickle plated" slip yoke?  I'd rather not hassle with the parts guy at GM ... must easier if I had a number.  Thanks!

 

j

Posted

Yoke P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or 12477704 (2500 Series).

 

Hope this helps.  Let me know if this works out for you.  I got the Autotrak II TC fluid put in today for the same problem.  Hopefully this will fix it.

Posted
I had the fluid changed didnt help (it did for a bit)
Posted
FYI...Got my truck back from the dealership yesterday (had the Autotrak II fluid added) and drove it really hard for about an hour.  Seems to have solved the 'clunk' problem.  If this doesn't last, the mechanic suggested the new slip yoke.  Hopefully I won't have to resort to that, but at least I know what's required down the road...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 289 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...