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Stainless Steel brake lines - A few ?'s


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Posted

I'm thinking of getting some stainless steel brakes lines for my '08 Silverado to go along with the PowerSlot and Hawk pads that I just put on. They stop better than the factory brakes but the pedal still feels a little mushy so I'm thinking some SS brake lines might help but I have a few questions.

 

1. Are they worth getting? Will they create a stiffer/more firm pedal feel (which is what I'm after)?

 

2. Where can I get some for an '08. Everywhere that I've checked only has them for an '07 and it doesn't specify if it is for the classic or 900.

 

3. If I replace them myself, can I use the Motive Brake Bleeder and bleed the brakes myself or do I need to have them bled by a shop? I've read that you also have to bleed the ABS actuator which calls for the scan tool.

 

4. Firestone or Goodyear will not put the lines on because they are not house parts. If I were to replace them myself, could I drive my truck the short 2 miles or so and have them bleed the brakes? I know there will be air in the lines and I essentially won't have power brakes, but will it hurt or damage anything?

Posted

If you only replace the front with SS lines then you will still have rear brakes, or should. I've had to drive around 80 miles on rear only because I couldn't get the air out of the front lines and it was not fun. Ever since I got them back working decently I still feel I have a mushy pedal. I am interested in the SS lines.

Posted

I replaced all lines from from to back when I did my SS. Also replaced the rotors and pads with the slotted / drilled and put the hawk pads on. To be honest, the pedal was still a bit mushy. It did help a little, but after all said and done, it wasn't worth the headache. I even took it to the dealer to re-bleed my lines to make sure i didn't f it up. Upgraded fluid and all. I think its the vaccum brake booster that is the problem, not the slight flex in the lines. You can upgrade to the Hydro Boost set up out of a 2500 / 3500. I really dont know too much about the install but from what I read, its like night and day.

Posted

I read a little on the Hydroboost upgrade and it seems that you can't do it on a GMT-900s due to the steering now being rack and pinion or something of that nature. I think it also has something to do with the vacuum sensor on the master cylinder. The older trucks did not have this but the newer ones do.

 

 

I might have read that wrong though.

Posted

I had the "Russell" SS braided hoses installed in Sara (2001 Z28) before upgrading the rotors and pads, and immediately felt a firmer brake pedal. the hoses are rated @ 300 PSI, and never swell.

 

I went to a local "mom and pop" mechanic shop, and they had no problems in switiching everything out, and the price was way more reasonable than the larger major named shops (i.e. "Firestone, Goodyear").

Posted

I looked up Russell brake lines and I think part number 695590 will for for my truck. They are the only company that I have found that has a SS brake line for my truck.

 

According to Russell's website that part number is for an 07-08 Silverado work truck. Are the brakes the same between the work truck and my 08 LTZ Crew?

Posted

SS lines will provide a slightly firmer pedal feel. The internal line (under the braided covering) is a teflon material.

 

I can see where chain stores like Firestone and Goodyear won't do an install like that as they are more concerned with their own liability issues than customer service.

 

The install is fairly straightforward but if you aren't sure about doing the work yourself, take the truck to a reputable independent auto repair shop. A Motive bleeder will work to bleed the brake lines after install and if there isn't a lot of fluid loss, you should not have to deal with the ABS unit. If you do the work yourself, I would install one line at at time and bleed that line before going to the next line. That will keep the fluid loss to a minimum.

 

Aftermarket lines usually don't include the copper crush washers so you should get them before starting the install.

 

It would be a good idea to bleed the entire system when done in order to get the old (dirty) fluid out of the system. Get a cheap turkey baster and suck out the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, leaving just enough to cover the hole in the bottom. Refill with a good DOT3 fluid like Castrol LMA or even the Ford :eek: Motorsports HD fluid then bleed each line in the correct order until clean fluid comes out of the bleed screw. You will need about a quart.

Posted

SS lines will provide a slightly firmer pedal feel. The internal line (under the braided covering) is a teflon material.

 

I can see where chain stores like Firestone and Goodyear won't do an install like that as they are more concerned with their own liability issues than customer service.

 

The install is fairly straightforward but if you aren't sure about doing the work yourself, take the truck to a reputable independent auto repair shop. A Motive bleeder will work to bleed the brake lines after install and if there isn't a lot of fluid loss, you should not have to deal with the ABS unit. If you do the work yourself, I would install one line at at time and bleed that line before going to the next line. That will keep the fluid loss to a minimum.

 

Aftermarket lines usually don't include the copper crush washers so you should get them before starting the install.

 

It would be a good idea to bleed the entire system when done in order to get the old (dirty) fluid out of the system. Get a cheap turkey baster and suck out the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, leaving just enough to cover the hole in the bottom. Refill with a good DOT3 fluid like Castrol LMA or even the Ford :eek: Motorsports HD fluid then bleed each line in the correct order until clean fluid comes out of the bleed screw. You will need about a quart.

 

 

The Russell kit comes with all washers and ss fitings.

Posted

I had a set of Russel lines on a '92 Corvette and I found that they were so short that with the rear wheels off the ground, the line was stretched tight. While they "worked", I didn't care for them and other people that had used Russell lines mentioned the same thing about the length of the line. Washers were included in the ste I had bought but they were aluminum, not copper.

 

I now have a set of Earls' lines on another Corvette and these linse have enough extra length that there is no problem with a hose being stretched tight. It's hard to say if Earl's offers lines for pickups. Another SS line to consider is Goodridge.

 

Copper crush washers are cheap so even if certain brake line manufacturers don't include them, a quick trip to a parts store covers that. And it's always a good idea to have extra washers on hand as copper washers are only used once.

Posted

I bought the supplies for this the last time I had brake trouble but I took the truck to a local shop and they bled the lines for me so I never ended up piecing this stuff together.

Posted

I read a little on the Hydroboost upgrade and it seems that you can't do it on a GMT-900s due to the steering now being rack and pinion or something of that nature. I think it also has something to do with the vacuum sensor on the master cylinder. The older trucks did not have this but the newer ones do.

 

 

I might have read that wrong though.

Yea, I'm not really sure. I think they should have switched to the hydroboost in all 900's, not just the 2500 / 3500. Better stopping power on a 6000+ lb truck is always a plus.

 

If you do end up going with stainless lines, give they guys at Summit racing(.com) a call they will make sure you get lines that will fit. That's what i did when I ordered mine. Their price was right in line with other places I shopped.

Posted

Yea, I'm not really sure. I think they should have switched to the hydroboost in all 900's, not just the 2500 / 3500. Better stopping power on a 6000+ lb truck is always a plus.

 

If you do end up going with stainless lines, give they guys at Summit racing(.com) a call they will make sure you get lines that will fit. That's what i did when I ordered mine. Their price was right in line with other places I shopped.

Do you remember the part number for the ones that you got? I would assume that they would be the same part number for a '12 and '08.

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