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How-To: DL8 to DL3 Mirror Mod GMT900.

djklatt

By djklatt
in DIY Guides & Reference Library

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djklatt Enthusiast

djklatt

Posted
Posted

This is my tutorial on the DL8 to DL3 mod. The mirrors I installed were DL8's with DL3 glass. In the tutorial I have the information on how to wire in the auto dim so that feature works with the auto dim rear view mirror.

Here is the link to the tutorial:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2-2GFXxDXpmbDYweUk1bmJHU2M/edit?usp=sharing

 

The quality of pictures does get diminished some through the Google sharing, but if you do want higher quality pictures, feel free to contact me. Also if you have any questions, feel free to ask. I do enjoy having the turn signals and the auto dimming drivers mirror. I also outline different places to look to see if the wiring for the turn signals is there from previous research.

  • 2 weeks later...
1baddad Enthusiast

1baddad

Posted
Posted

It's a good right up but to identify if you are able to do this mod with DL8 to DL3 just look at the RPO codes in the glove box. DL8 will allow DL3 mirror mod. I don't know if the other DL codes 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7 for the LS and WT model trucks but most wont be able to use the DL3's.

 

I wish you could find a way to make the power fold work with the Key FOB lock/unlock feature. I viewed a video on YouTube but he does not explain it.

 

 

djklatt Enthusiast

djklatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's a good right up but to identify if you are able to do this mod with DL8 to DL3 just look at the RPO codes in the glove box. DL8 will allow DL3 mirror mod. I don't know if the other DL codes 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7 for the LS and WT model trucks but most wont be able to use the DL3's.

 

I wish you could find a way to make the power fold work with the Key FOB lock/unlock feature. I viewed a video on YouTube but he does not explain it.

 

Thanks, and I'm not sure on the other DL codes. Another note is the biggest thing on getting fully functioning DL3's is the wiring that comes in the truck. My truck is a hardwired style switch whereas the one that is plug and play on power folding is a databus style plug. That's why I only did the DL3 glass in DL8 housings because I didn't want the added cost of getting it to work like factory and the main features I wanted was auto dimming drivers and turn signals.

 

As for the folding and unfolding with the key fob, that I have no idea on how that works since I don't have power folding mirrors.

 

For more information and one of the threads that helped me decide the DL3 glass in DL8 housings, here is a link to that thread:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/107062-adding-power-folding-mirrors/

 

Also a quote from that thread:

 

I was interested in this and found some very good info here:

 

http://performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=441341

 

Basically

to paraphrase that thread, for the easy swap your current window

switches have to be the style with the included databus module

(typically the uplevel trims, ie Sierra SLT or Silverado LTZ) instead of

the standard hardwired switch panels. If you have those databus style

the swap is apparently as easy as adding the DL3 mirrors, swapping in a

driver-side and passenger-side switch panel from a truck that had DL3's,

plugging in the connectors, and everything is likely to be plug-n-play

and there's no need to get anything reflashed. If you buy new switches

that didn't come from a truck with the DL3's, or only buy a used

driver-side switch and not the passenger-side too, then they apparently

have to re-flash your BCM but the rest of the install is still just as

easy.

 

However if you have the hardwired style, while it's still

theoretically possible to upgrade to the DL3's (read post #9 in the link

above), it involves all new wiring harnesses, switches, upgrading the

BCM, rewiring the rear window switches, ordering a new XM receiver (no

joke), some knowledgeable flashing and programming, and so forth. In

other words, it looks to be very complicated and probably expensive, so I

don't know if it's worth it. Unfortunately I'm in this boat as my

switches are the the hardwired style.

 

For identification purposes, this is the hardwired style of switch:

attachicon.gifhardwired1.jpgattachicon.gifhardwired2.jpg

 

 

And this is the style with the databus module (note the different types of connections):attachicon.gifdatabus3.jpgattachicon.gifdatabus4.jpg

 

From

what I've read, you can identify the databus style without seeing the

connections by that larger circle mirror adjustment pad and the

half-circle notched mirror selector button under it, versus the smaller

mirror adjustment pad and rocker-style selector switch on the hardwired

style. But if you want to double-check (which I did just in case I was

lucky enough that mine were somehow the databus style even though they

look like the hardwired ones), it only takes a minute to disassemble the

door enough to remove the switch and see what type of connectors you

have.

1baddad Enthusiast

1baddad

Posted
Posted

Yeah we both have hardwired switches and I'm not about to spend that type of money just for factory. I saw where someone had figured out how to run some timer relays liked they use in aftermarket remote start kits to set the mirrors to fold in and out using the Key FOB like I showed above.

I just need to find someone who knows what parts are needed and a wiring diagram to do it all.

djklatt Enthusiast

djklatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah we both have hardwired switches and I'm not about to spend that type of money just for factory. I saw where someone had figured out how to run some timer relays liked they use in aftermarket remote start kits to set the mirrors to fold in and out using the Key FOB like I showed above.

I just need to find someone who knows what parts are needed and a wiring diagram to do it all.

I can understand that, I'll look through and see if I can find the bookmarked write ups with some of the diagrams for getting the power fold to work by hard wiring. I'll PM you it when I find them. Someone on here might know of the parts as well.

1baddad Enthusiast

1baddad

Posted
Posted

I know if you go stock the cost can be from 500-800 bucks.

Here is a photo of the switches he used from another site but the guy didn't post a how to. He set it to open and close with the FOB.

IMG_20130828_180337_157.jpg

djklatt Enthusiast

djklatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know if you go stock the cost can be from 500-800 bucks.

Here is a photo of the switches he used from another site but the guy didn't post a how to. He set it to open and close with the FOB.

IMG_20130828_180337_157.jpg

Hopefully someone can chime in on the aspect of making it fold and unfold via the fob. That is a pretty sweet addition.

sideways Enthusiast

sideways

Posted
Posted

Gentlemen, I am in the same boat as you with my 2013 Silverado as I have purchased a set of used DL3 mirrors that included the databus switches thinking the plug and play swap with my current DL8 mirrors would be a piece of cake. NOT!

I did find this on another site but have not tried it, as me and wiring or electricity of any type do not get along. http://www.silveradosierra.com/how-to-articles/dl8-to-fully-function-dl3-t125969.html

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