2003 1500HD

[als1984z28]

I am looking at turning in my leased 00 2 door Blazer in on the 1500HD CC.  What is the dealers price on, I am wondering how low below invoice price they will go.

[TxDoc]

Here is some info from a post I made when I was ordering:

(sites with pricing info)

http://www.kbb.com

 

http://www.carquotes.com

 

http://www.agstar.com/leases/chromecarbook.shtml

 

http://www.wheels.com/reference/referenceFrame.htm

 

I just ordered a 2003 with Quadrasteer thru my dealer for $500 over invoice. The benefit is he has a "sold" unit, with no cost to his profit after time passes. The benefit to me is I get exactly what I won't without comprimise.

 

 

Some other info to consider:

 

(Thanks to Clifford Martin)

 

* What is the process to order a new Yukon, Tahoe, or Suburban?

* The order process goes like this:

* You contact a dealer and tell them that you want to order a new Suburban, Yukon, Tahoe.

* Ask if they have an "allocation" for a truck that they can apply to your order this week. The dealer gets allocations on Tuesdays. The dealer can order on-line up until 9pm eastern time on Fridays. After 9pm the allocation is gone.

* They can enter your order in a matter of minutes while you are there or on the phone.

* Once all of the options are selected, they submit the order and get an instant response if the order is accepted.

* If it is not accepted, the GM system returns a reason why. The reason is generally a "constrained" option such as a sunroof. They can delete the constrained option and resubmit the order if it is something you can live without.

* Once the order is accepted a 6 digit number is displayed and that is your order number.

* Obtain from your dealer a copy of the "Order Detail Summary". This report provides a written confirmation of exactly what options, etc. were ordered.

* Usually within 7 days, your dealer can go back to the GM System and enter the order number and get a TPW date (tentative production week) for your truck.

* The TPW is generally 4 to 7 weeks past the order date. The TPW can move in or out several weeks during this period.

* Once the truck is built, your dealer can log back into the system and get the actual VIN number and production date.

* Once the vehicle is produced, you should get a copy of the invoice from the dealer. It will verify the price, for those who bought the vehicle at X dollars over invoice and it will verify that everything ordered on the vehicle is included on the vehicle as built.

* From this point until you get the truck is generally 17 days +/- a few.

* Other events are visible on the GM system such as the date the truck arrives at the rail distribution center for you region or the method of shipment of your truck.

* Your dealer also gets a printout of the invoice in the week before the truck arrives.

* You can call the GM customer service number and give them your order number and you will get information. This information is often incorrect and incomplete. Your best bet is to inform your sales person that you will call from time to time to check on the progress.

* I call about once a week and it takes my guy about 3 minutes to check status so it is no big deal.

* To those who have tried to order a Suburb or Yukon or Tahoe and not been given a order number: Go to another dealer! Dealers get allocations based on previous years sales of these models. Not on cars!

* These models are made by a GM division called GM Truck, not by Chevrolet or GMC. So if you are still waiting on your order to be accepted, you are being held captive by your dealer.

* High volume truck dealers get more allocations and fewer constraints, so you are more likely to get your truck ordered quicker and with the options you want at a higher volume dealer.

* Moral - If you live in up-state where ever, don't expect get an allocation in front of the market hot spots. This is a very typical way of distributing a high-demand product.

 

* What is an Allocation, Constraint, TPW, etc.?

* Here is a Glossary of Terms:

* Allocation(s) - These are the things that dealers seem to never have enough of. GM is restricting how many vehicles of each model a dealer can order. Each Tuesday, the dealer will find out how many allocations they have and for what models. The quantity of allocations is thought to be based upon previous year sales of that model. The GM ordering computer then suggests model order configurations. The dealer can accept these suggestions or change them. If the computer suggests a configuration that includes a contrained item, the dealer can use that order suggestion to get a vehicle with a certain constrained item.

* Constraints - These are the things that drive customers nuts. If an option is constrained, it means that either the dealer can not order that option at all or is limited in the numbers of that option that can be ordered. Constraints occur because GM does not have enough of the items from vendors or because there are problems with that item and GM does not want to send out vehicles with known problems.

* TPW - TPW stands for Target Production Week. It is the best estimate of what week a particular ordered vehicle will be built. Even though the TPW gives a specific date, such as 5/15, the truck might be built on any day of that week. TPWs are a best guess and the actual build date of the truck depends upon many factors, such as availability of parts, etc.

* Build Date - This is the actual date that the truck has finished assembly. It will appear on the paperwork (birth certificate) that GM sends to the dealer, which is given to your state government in order for a title to be generated.

* Ship Date - This is the date that the truck is scheduled to leave the factory, either by rail or truck carrier. One flaw in the great GM system is that a truck in transit can not be tracked to find out where it is. Shipping times are the great black hole.

* In Service Date - This is the date that your dealer's paperwork says you picked up the truck. It is from this date that the clock on your warrenty, etc., starts ticking. It is also the date that those nasty car payments or lease payments start from.

* Ooow & Aahhh Date - This is the first day that you drive your new truck to work or anyplace where your friends can see your new ride. The Ooow & Aahhh refers to the sounds other people make when they see your SUV for the first time.

* What THE #*&%! Date - This is the day of your first fill up of a full tank of gas. "What THE #*&%!" is what you say when you see how much it costs to fill that sucker up. "What THE #*&%!" can also occur when you find out what the insurance and license tag / ad valorem taxes will be on your new truck.

* Oh Shoot! Date - This is the first day when you see that your new truck has gotten a parking lot scratch, dent or ding. For most owners this date comes shortly after they get tired of parking the truck in the far corner of parking lots and decide to park in the closest space available.

* TSB - TSB stands for Technical Service Bulletin. TSB are released by GM to their dealers to inform them of special service related information.

 

* What is the proper break-in procedure for my new Yukon, Suburban or Tahoe?

* The manufacturer's suggested break-in procedures are so simple on new vehicles these days, that there is basically no excuse for not following them. For the first 500 miles:

1. Keep the speeds under 55 or 60.

2. Vary the speeds. If you are on the highway, I suggest varying between 40 to 60 (or even above 60 for a few minutes), and do not use the cruise control.

3. Don't tow a trailer.

* Keep in mind that when you stop you will hear a popping sound from the vicinity of the exhaust system and even a slightly burning smell from the engine compartment the first time or two that you pull into your garage with your new vehicle. These are normal and should disappear (particularly the smell) after a couple of drives).

* I make a point during the break-in period to systematically test each item on the vehicle, to the extent you did not do so when you picked it up from the dealer.

* Finally, don't pay too much attention to the gas mileage on your new vehicle, if you check at all, for the first 500 miles or so. Mileage will improve after the break-in period.

 

* Should I buy an extended warranty with my new Yukon, Suburban or Tahoe?

* The answer to this question is ultimately dependant upon your personality and what you think about buying insurance. Some people really like the peace of mind of having the insurance against a major repair bill after the expiration of the standard warranty. To other people, buying insurance is just like betting against the house in Vegas - the odds are that you are not going to win - that is the nature of insurance and the way it is priced. If you are inclined to consider the purchase of an extended warranty, however, here are some considerations that you might want to keep in mind:

 

1. Find out from your dealer BEFORE YOU GO TO PICK UP YOUR VEHICLE how much the extended warranty costs and the basic terms. If you live near your dealership, go by and pick up a brochure on the extended warranty being offered. It is much easier to make up your mind whether you want the extended warranty ahead of time than it is sitting in the dealer's financial office when you are handling other matters and all you really want is to get in your new Yukon, Suburban or Tahoe.

2. Remember that the cost of the extended warranty is a negotiable item, so if you are interested in buying one with your vehicle, try to negotiate a better price than the one first offered. There is a web site that sells the GM Major Guard warranty for discounted prices (see links section) and there are several web sites that sell third party warranties.

3. More times than not, the extended warranty being offered is NOT backed by GM and has nothing to do with GM. It is underwritten by an insurance company you probably never have heard of. There is one reason, and one reason only, that the dealership is trying to sell the non-GM warranty - the commission to the dealership is better than GM's commission. I am personally very skeptical of extended warranties from third party carriers. There are just too many questions to take into account: Will the carrier be around in four or five years? Will you be the one to have to initially pay the cost of the repair and then apply for reimbursement from the carrier? Will a dealership other than the one you are buying the vehicle from be willing to deal with the third party carrier? Etc. I believe the dealership is obligated to offer the GM warranty as well, so ask to see it and make a comparison.

4. Most aftermarket extended carriers will let you add the extended warranty anytime before the expiration of the factory warranty. Consider waiting for a while. Remember that the extended warranty does not come into play util the factory warranty runs out, so if you buy the warranty at the time you buy the vehicle, you are paying now for something you don't get for three years or 36000 miles from now. The exception to this is if you buy the GM Major Guard extended warranty. The price for the GM product is less when it is bought at the same time the vehicle is put into service.

5. Most importantly, go back to point one above. Think about the possibility of an extended warranty ahead of time and do not be swayed by a sales pitch when you pick up the vehicle. It is an expensive purchase (the one I was offered on my 2000 Yukon was $1,680) and should be given more careful thought than you can give it in a few moments at the dealership.

[drincbud]

I just took delivery on a 2003 1500 hd cc i had ordered it took about 45 days.. i got 2800.00 off sticker (35,848.00) the truck alone. And with 3000.00 in rebates.  so take that for what its worth. I love the truck although make sure you get the steering wheel controls so you can use the drivers information center. i didnt and wish i did. Another point i hope you dont mind about gas mileage because you will notice a large drop in mileage. although mine is at only at 1000 miles iam averaging 10 mpg or so...But on the other hand it has plenty of power. Hope this helps you if any other questions just let me know

[pilot00]

I bought a 2003HD Crew Cab LS 4X4 a month ago. I paid 500 over invoice (32,000), got 3,000 in rebates, and also got 1000 off from my GM card. Traded a Dodge Ram in for this and I am glad I did. You can not even compare the two trucks to each other. You will not be disapointed.

[Threejaws]

I have an '03 2500HD with the  6.0 and love it, the dual climate controls and steering wheel controls are great. A great improvement over the '99 I had. Lifted 2003, 2500HD

[clk7711]

Tx Doc, that was a very good explanation of an order process.

. One flaw in the great GM system is that a truck in transit can not be tracked to find out where it is. Shipping times are the great black hole.

 

I pick up courtesy deliveries for the company I work for and sometimes and we get a shipping date and then two weeks later the truck arrives at the dealer.

 

I think those drivers are spending too much time screwing off at truck stops.

[als1984z28]

Thanks for the all of the advice, I am going to the dealership tomorrow, maybe I'll drive home in a 1500HD.

[RyanbabZ71]

I just got quoted $31K for a 2500HD 4wd CC with the 6 Liter.  That was after all incentives (reg $37K)

[99silveradoz71]

I just got quoted $31K for a 2500HD 4wd CC with the 6 Liter.  That was after all incentives (reg $37K)

Hmm...if I had gotten a quote just a little lower when I was looking for my 99...might have upgraded.

[Charlie in TX]

Dec 5th I ordered a 1500hd. The base is pretty loaded. I added towing pacage, locking rear, sterio upgrade and aluminum wheels. Stickered for $32,267, agreed to price was $28,790.60 minus $3000 rebate for a pre-tax price of $25,790.60. Around newyears day I got ants in my pants and went to the dealer. Left with a 2500HD CC with the same options listed plus steering wheel controls and power seats. Stickered for just under $34k, got it for $27k.

[als1984z28]

Well, I went to the local dealer and they are trying to find me a 1500HD, they are having problems trying to dealer trade for one.  I have been waiting for a call back all day!  All they have in a Crew Cab is two 2500HD's, a Duramax($43,500) and an 8.1 ($39,500).  I am looking for a HD CC, 6.0, High back bucket seats, Bose speakers, 3.73's and locking differential.  Black or Dark Gray metallic with cloth seats.

Charlie in Tx, was that $27k after the rebates?  I might have to look around for a 2500HD CC under $36,000.

[als1984z28]

Well now I am going to a different dealer, I was fed up with the other dealer trying to locate a truck for me.  They promised $500 over invoice but could not provide a truck, even when they told me to come over they had one, I was there for 5 hours yesterday and they could not get any dealers to trade them one.  So Vehix.com came to the rescue and I am currently dealing on a Black 1500HD at the new dealer.

[Shaners]

Good luck with the new dealer.  I hope you get your new truck soon!!!

 

When I bought my truck, I was looking for a 1500HD, but the truck I wanted was too far away and they wouldn't do a trade with my local dealer.

 

Believe it or not, the difference between a 1500HD and 2500HD identically equipped "LT" trucks is only about $1000 at dealer cost (2001 prices).  My dealer split the difference with me so for $500 over the price of the 1500HD I'm driving a little more truck!!!   :thumb:

[Charlie in TX]

Charlie in Tx, was that $27k after the rebates?  I might have to look around for a 2500HD CC under $36,000.

Yes, $27k after rebates. I used 1800 GM bucks. My out the door price was $25.5k