Towing travel trailer w/ 2014 factory brake controller

fshouttah2o · February 24, 2014

Does anyone have experience towing a travel trailer with a factory brake controller and whether the anti-sway feature works well? I already have a WD hitch for the trailer I just ordered but dealer is recommending an anti-sway hitch. Necessary? Thanks for your input. TT dry wt. 7200lbs, 34'7" hitch to rear bumper. '14 Sierra 5.3L with 3.42 rear end.

6.2max · February 24, 2014

Why does the dealer want to sell you a WD hitch with sway control? Is it because he makes more money or because he doesn't know how to set up your current WD hitch so it works properly?

I pull a TT almost exactly the same size as yours. Varies from 8500 to 9000 punds loaded.

If your brake controller is set properly and your WD properly adjusted properly you will have very little problem with sway. This is assuming you have the trailer balanced properly with about 12 -15% of the weight on the WD hitch.

Where sway can become a problem is when you load up the trailer with your personal items and fill water tanks etc - changes the weight bias and sometimes you need to move things around inside etc. to adjust for that.

You have not indicated what rating your WD is but for that TT it should be around a 1200/12000.

wandern · February 24, 2014

Does anyone have experience towing a travel trailer with a factory brake controller and whether the anti-sway feature works well? I already have a WD hitch for the trailer I just ordered but dealer is recommending an anti-sway hitch. Necessary? Thanks for your input. TT dry wt. 7200lbs, 34'7" hitch to rear bumper. '14 Sierra 5.3L with 3.42 rear end.

What WD hitch do you have? Can't you add an anti-sway component to it? I haven't been able to get the truck "anti-sway" feature to kick in even when trying- a situation in which it does would probably be a bit uncomfortable.

WD aside, you'll likely want an anti-sway hitch if you're towing a high profile trailer like a TT. Makes towing in crosswinds or around other large vehicles a non-event.

fshouttah2o · February 24, 2014

I have a Husky - brand hitch rated 800-1200 lbs - the kind with saddles and chains for tension. I've read on a number of trailering forums about the Equalizer hitch, so I actually brought it up with my sales guy who I've been working with now for over a year so we have a pretty solid rapport - I trust him generally. He's not pushing the issue, but speaks VERY highly of Equalizer as the gold standard.

I'm sure there an A/S add to my existing setup, but not sure I'd go that route given the choice.

I should probably also mention that we're moving coast-to-coast this summer & crossing the Rockies en route to our new duty station in SC.

6.2max · February 24, 2014

The Equalizer hitch is what I am using. It's easier to setup because it has no chains and is supposed to provide some sway control.

If that is what you will make you more comfortable then go with that - but they pretty much all work on the same principle.

A bit of time and patience is involved to get a WD hitch set properly for your TT and tow vehicle - and that is the most important part.

bdbake01 · February 24, 2014

Sway control is really only necessary if you have a setup which you can't properly control by shifting load, etc. Think about it, "controlling sway" implies that you already have sway. And that's bad, right?

Once you have exhausted your options for loading and you still have sway, in comes sway control. True, the integrated controller does have sway control. BUT, it's a last resort, plan B if you will. I uses the trailer brakes and the vehicle anti-lock braking system to provide a form of sway control in extreme sway situations. It does not kick in under minor amounts of sway that don't pose an immediate threat to the safety of the rig. But that also means that you'll go a waggin down the road without some other control mechanism. This might sound bad, but you really don't want the truck to attempt controlling ALLLL of the sway. Think about it, that would mean that the truck would be constantly pulsing your truck and trailer's brakes, all the time. Beyond the brake wear and tear, that can't be good for gas mileage.

So, if you have a minor amount of sway that you can't get rid of, you should consider full time hitch based sway control. Let it suppress the wiggle. I'm a fan of Equalizers. They are beautifully designed, compact, and so darn effective. But if you already have a WD hitch, an add on is certainly cheaper and effective as well.

seamonster · February 25, 2014

Sorry I dont have any experience with the brake controller but I do have experience towing a 35 foot travel trailer.

You need sway control.

A weight distributing hitch is a good start but when those cross winds and other large vehicles go by you need sway

control----do not risk your life its not worth it.

I have the euilizer brand and recommend it---the whole setup is much better than the chain set up.

you will not like towing that across country with a half ton truck and a trailer that long.

fshouttah2o · February 25, 2014

Thanks for all the great insights everyone! This was exactly what I needed to hear to make sure I have the best possible setup.

wandern · February 25, 2014

Thanks for all the great insights everyone! This was exactly what I needed to hear to make sure I have the best possible setup.

Equalizer and the Reese Dual Cam (Reese DC) anti-sway setups are two of the most popular, reasonably priced options with proven effectiveness. I prefer the Reese DC and plenty of people have the same preference for the Equalizer.

quickvert1 · February 26, 2014

good info here

what u guys think about towing an 18foot open trailer?

Also what drop hitch for my truck would work best 2 or 4" drop?

mike94silverado · February 26, 2014

I have a Properly set up trailer and WD hitch and still use sway control. I am more comfortable with it.

chuckl1218 · February 26, 2014

good info here

what u guys think about towing an 18foot open trailer?

Also what drop hitch for my truck would work best 2 or 4" drop?

Interested in this too! I have not towed with my '14 Silverado yet, but used a 2" drop with my '11 Silverado to tow my 12' open utility trailer and 10' cargo trailer. Both are single axle and sat near level when empty with the 2" drop.

bdbake01 · February 26, 2014

good info here

what u guys think about towing an 18foot open trailer?

Also what drop hitch for my truck would work best 2 or 4" drop?

Wish I could give you a straight answer, but it is totally dependant on the truck and trailer. I pull an 18' open myself, but it was custom built looooow so I could get my car on it. So, 4" drop it is for me.

Ideally at the end of the day you'll have a truck that is near level, and a trailer whose front is eeeever so slightly lower than the back. If the front is higher, it wants to wiggle. If you want to take a stab at it, try whatever drop it takes to get the ball about 2-3" higher than the level trailer coupling while unhooked.

fshouttah2o · April 5, 2014

Perhaps a greenhorn question here but is there any wisdom out there regarding whether to use cruise control while towing? Never worried about it on our relatively short trips near home, but with a cross-country move coming up, I would appreciate other experieced voices.