Jump to content

Exhaust Headers


Recommended Posts

Posted

Kooks are the ones I want but I wonder when they'll get produced?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Kooks are the ones I want but I wonder when they'll get produced?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

Had Kooks on my 2010 Camaro, IMO their an excellent product!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Kooks are great. but I ran JBA on 10+ 2010 and newer Oklahoma Camaro cars. Zero fitment issues and catted/offroad versions etc. The price for JBA is great as well. I have emailed them to see if they're going to do anything. I've also sent an email to AFE to see if they're going to do the high flow catted y-pipe which would be where I would start. :-)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thought you guys would be interested to know that I sent Kooks an Email last Thursday after I picked up my new 2014 Crew Cab LTZ. Got this response back:

 

Thank you for contacting Kooks Headers and Exhaust. We are finishing up these Headers and Y-Pipes, these should be shipping out by end of this month. I will be happy to take a pre-order from you for these parts. I have listed below the part numbers and retail pricing on these.

 

ID

Application Guide

DESCRIPTION

MSRP

286220

2014 GM Truck 5.3L / 6.2L

1 3/4" x 3" Stainless Steel Long Tube Header.

1,174.59

286240

2014 GM Truck 5.3L / 6.2L

1 7/8" x 3" Stainless Steel Long Tube Header.

1,189.06

286310

2014 GM Truck 5.3L

3" Off Road (No Cats) Y Pipe OEM Outlet. Stainless Steel.

474.35

286330

2014 GM Truck 5.3L

3" Ultra High Performance GREEN Catted Y Pipe OEM Outlet. Stainless Steel.

1,047.12

 

Please let me know if I can get a set of these pre-ordered for you or if you have any other questions.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,002 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...