Jump to content

GM Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts


Duelin

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just got done reading a technical article about GM Started in 2007 using TTY bolts to hold their caliper brackets on. And the article went on to say that if the bolts have to be removed during brake repair service that they had to be replaced. Does anyone know which units use these TTY bolts. How many of you replace the bolts. How many of you use a angle gauge to torque these bolts to the correct specs. when you do a brake job. Since I retired I don't have the access to the info that I did when I was working.

Posted

Sounds like something GM would do. Anything to make sure owners don't dare place a wrench anywhere on "their" vehicles ....

 

I haven't heard that personally, but that wouldn't surprise me in the least.

Posted

I have been trying to search the back of my mind. To see if I could remember doing a brake job that might have had the TTY bolts. I don't think so but I hope not.

Posted

I think that would be an excellent way for GM to get itself sued right out of business. Thousands of small shops and DIY'ers would re-use the bolts, with potentially catastrophic results - right on par with Toyota's sticky gas pedal.

Posted

Does not apply to trucks if I recall. Only thing they call for is threadlocker on the bracket to knuckle bolts. If its a 1/2 ton torque for the brakcet to knuckle bolts is 129ft-lbs. Caliper pin bolts 74 ft-lbs. TTY brake bolts seems to be a car thing...Cruze, Malibu, Sonic, etc. If it calls for new bolts do it though.

Posted

Maybe if MS3DALE has time he can pop in here and enlighten us as to what models might use the TTY bolts. I was wondering about the cross overs and the small cross overs.

Posted

From my own experience, mechanics tend to religiously follow torque specs (along with honouring the replacement of TTY fasteners) inside the engine/transmission, and the further away from that, the less they follow specs.

Torque to yield fasteners are really no different to any other fastener, with the exception that they take those fasteners to their maximum torque value.

 

First time I saw a TTY spec was when aluminum cylinder heads came out. Seemed to be common on engines with aluminum heads and cast iron blocks.

 

Would not surprise me to hear that manufacturers have gone to smaller dimensional fasteners to reduce weight, and by doing so, they had to find a dependable way to get the maximum "tightness" of these smaller fasteners, without them breaking.

 

There used to be a common saying regarding torque, tighten till it breaks, then back off quarter of a turn. TTY has already found that point of breakage, and tells you how to get to the quarter turn before it breaks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,738
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Mistycool
    Newest Member
    Mistycool
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,705 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am having similar issues.. 08, 4.8L granted I did had a fender bender and minor damage up front passenger side but I don’t think it had anything to do with it.. I had the high and low pressure checked and my fan for my radiator keeps coming on.. replaced the pressure switch and don’t want to keep throwing parts at it. I did have some minor problems here and there like on long road trips sometimes the ac would get a little warm and then on the highway as soon as I give it a little gas or get a little heavier on the petal it started running cooler. Never had an issue with the ac besides the here and there.. but I also started having issues when I fuel up now it takes a bit to start ( super embarrassing) it runs fine and once started ( only happens after fueling up) starts fine any other time. Could they be related?
    • Spent a small fortune on fuel this weekend.   $6.69 diesel, 18 gallons of that. $6.99 92-octane ethanol free, 10 gallons of that for yard machines $5.59 87-octane for one of the cars, 11 gallons.   $250+ and I didn't even get a tug.   Hormuz ain't Hormuzin again, did not see that coming...LOL
    • Appreciate the advice. I've watched multiple videos. Most showing the most complex for those that have a center console, to one that showed maybe 2 pieces of trim being removed, like 6 screws, pulling back the screen and switch assembly, and installing the inline module. And this was a new/newer Silverado. That didn't look too bad. All the others show alot of trim pieces that need to be removed. I've broken those kind of tabs/clips on my C8 Corvette trying to get to the battery, and that was a lot less clips than what I think is involved here after watching multiple videos and looking at my dash today. I have one on the way. Called a reputable stereo place about installing it and got a "minimum" price of $175. Ouch! Looking forward to seeing what the instructions have to say.
    • Hard to say what the issue might be. Anything from the ability to cool the AC condenser up front, to blend door issues in the HVAC unit, to refrigerant charge, to compressor issues or issues in the lines.   Report back what the techs find on the 29th.   GM has service publications which list acceptable vent temperatures and AC pressures at given ambient temps and humidity. They probably won't touch the system if it's operating within those ranges.   I'm also surprised to hear your 2024 with the L8T is still using R134a? I was pretty sure the HD's had switched to the new refrigerant around 2020.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...