Help: Stereo Upgrade, Signal issues, 2014 Screw non-Navi, non-Bose

[Zasker1]

Truck: 2014 Screw, Z71 non-Navi, non-Bose

I decided I wanted to upgrade the factory system, to what we might call Stage 2, this means:

1. Use of Factory Head unit.
   
2. Upgrade Front / Rear speakers
   
3. Add a 4 channel amp
   
4. Add a mono amp
   
5. Add a small sub
   

I have studied most of the forum postings and though I could do this myself but the wiring from the HU to the amp, seemed a bit overwhelming so I decided to take it to Professional. They had their two lead installers spend most of yesterday on the install but we are at an impasse when it comes to locating a clean signal to route to the amp.

It looks like my build date was pretty recent, perhaps there are some late changes that have occurred?

Take a look at the picture below. You can see the green plug that is often referenced. After a lot of trial and error, we appear to be unable to tap into the pre-amp signal between the head unit and amplifier because it's data and not a usable signal.

The forum links below have a few different suggestions as to where to tap the signal, most of which point to the rear, however would this not remove our ability to use the "FADE" control on the factory head unit?

As it stands now, I get the deafening chime from the driver's door speaker when the car is started, and the entire system cuts out once the car is put into gear, or the brake pedal is depressed.

I followed a link on one of the gm forums which led me to a site called yellow bullet or something like that that gives the chime condition and causes and how and why the particular chime is generated.

It does not say whether or not it can be attenuated or eliminated altogether. Nowhere have i seen any solutions only threads asking for one.

1. http://www.silveradosierra.com/mobile-electronics/2014-silverado-cew-cab-amp-install-with-stock-radio-t149698.html
   

1. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154520-2014-aftermarket-audio-amps-speakers-subs-installed/
   

1. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154520-2014-aftermarket-audio-amps-speakers-subs-installed/?p=1372609
   

Any help or advice you can give would be greatly appreciated, will post pictures once its all installed and working.

2014 Silverado without Bose:

ITEM WIRE COLOR LOCATION

Left Front Speaker (+/-) // blue - brown/blue // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 1 - 9

Right Front Speaker (+/-) // yellow - yellow/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 2 - 10

Left Rear Speaker (+/-) // green - green/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 3 - 11

Right Rear Speaker (+/-) // white - blue/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12

[b_faulk75]

I did a complete upgrade on my 2013 using the factory head unit, i used a pac audio plug and play interface and i DID have the annoying loud chime and turn signal. When i traded the 13 in on the 14 i decided not to do the full stereo on the new truck because of this. I think you could use a jl audio clean sweep or an audio control lc6i to get your amp signals cleaned up but i doubt you will over come the loud chime if you want to retain your balance and fade functions.

 

I spent alot of time looking at the new truck schematics and different audio interfaces and it seems that with out elimination of the left from speaker input to your amp signal path, you will have to deal with it. I ordered the gm/kicker upgrade today. i hope it sounds good because i sure miss my stereo, lol...

[ryandemo84]

I just completed a sub install a few weeks ago. You have to tap into the rear speakers in the pillar to avoid chime through the speakers. I used the pac loc and tapped the rear speaker wires in the drivers side pillar. I only tapped one speaker bc i installed a mono amp and sub. You will have to tap left and right speakers for the 4 channel. I also still have the ability to fade if needed.

[ryandemo84]

 

I don't think you can tap into just one speaker actually I know you can't as it's a Stereo system and the head unit sends different base signals to each side. Thats why you always tap into both left and right channels to add a sub.

It sounds like I am getting a good signal. Good bass. Clean sound. What would be different if I tapped both speakers if its just bass?

[ryandemo84]

 

Your only getting half the signal.

Makes sense I guess. I will switch it to both speakers when I have a chance. Im new to this kind of stuff. Guess my research was off a bit.

[ericpdadof3]

I completed a full system upgrade using the factory head unit. Take a look at the install. You really need a signal processor to get the signals matched and the amps gain matched. Hope this helps.

[LaVaDog]

JL Audio has an intergraded sound processor that you keep the factory head unit. I thought about looking into it for my truck.JL Audio is solid stuff!