wiring 2014 Suburban 1500 LT

[Zebrafive]

No luck with T&C.com Can I use any of Mouser's terminals below to do this the right way? Because I'm thinking of soddering the wires flat, filing to terminal size and pushing them into the connector.

 

 

 

 

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Mouser #: 829-15304722

 

Mfr. #: 15304722-L Manufacturer: Delphi Connection Systems Desc.: Automotive Connectors MALE 280 SERIES TIN CBL RNG 1.85-1.20MM RoHS: RoHS Compliant Info: View Additional Product Info

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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$0.22 $2.20

 

Mouser #: 829-12191138

 

Mfr. #: 12191138 Manufacturer: Delphi Connection Systems Desc.: Automotive Connectors MALE GT280 TIN PLT CBL RANGE 0.80MM RoHS: RoHS Compliant

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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$0.12 $1.20

 

Mouser #: 829-15304702-L

 

Mfr. #: 15304702-L Manufacturer: Delphi Connection Systems Desc.: Automotive Connectors TERM GT 150 MALE RoHS: RoHS Compliant Info: View Additional Product Info

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Of these:

 

First is GT 280 series for 22-20ga wire

Second is GT 280 series for 18ga wire

Third is for GT 150 series for 18ga wire

[teddyv2]

Found it in Delphi catalog … GT150/280?

 

Mouser Part #:

829-15336224

Manufacturer Part #:

15336224

Manufacturer: Delphi Connection Systems

Description:

Automotive Connectors 16P M BLK CONN ASSY GT 150/280 SERIES

[Zebrafive]

I did some research on Delphi connectors and think it's:

16 Way Black GT 150 280 Unsealed Male Connector Assembly Part #13513961

 

But no terminal connector for 18 and 20ga wire on this either. Do you think I can make terminal 15304702 work?

Have you determined your wire size?

Have you determined terminal series?

15304702 is GT 150 series for 18ga wire. If you are putting it on 20ga wire simply strip more insulation off and double (fold back) the wire this will make 20ga slightly bigger than 18ga and work.

[teddyv2]

My confusion was that the 18ga vs 20ga was too big for the connector … like if 15304702 didn't fit, 15304701 would. But it doesn't matter. Just want to be sure the 15304702 terminals will fit in the connector.

[Zebrafive]

My confusion was that the 18ga vs 20ga was too big for the connector … like if 15304702 didn't fit, 15304701 would. But it doesn't matter. Just want to be sure the 15304702 terminals will fit in the connector.

Both terminals fit connector 13516907, they are only different for different gauge wires. If you have 13513961 connector, that is a combination (uses both GT 150 series terminals AND GT 280 series terminals. You need the correct SERIES (GT 150 or GT 280) for the cavity you want to use.

 

You should be able to tell if your connector is all GT 150 terminals or combination GT 150 AND GT 280 series. I was guessing from your picture the connector.

[teddyv2]

The 150 and 280 seem almost interchangable. There weren't many terminals available for either except in quantities of a 6000 roll. I ordered 4 types of terminals so hopefully one of them fits. I wouldn't put this much thought into something as simple as the Homelink, but with every circuit feeding through the body control module, I'm going to greater lengths to connect properly. If none of the new terminals fits, I might run the wires to the left side 20amp fused cigarette/charge port circuit above the console where I think the BCM is less sensitive to voltage.

[Zebrafive]

You "might" be able to install a GT 280 series terminal into a connector cavity for a GT 150 series terminal, BUT it will not mate to the other connector in your wiring harness.

 

Good luck! post back what you find.

[teddyv2]

I got the terminals yesterday afternoon and installed the Homelink in my '14 Suburban. I contacted the dealership and checked with the service advisor to be sure if I disconnect the battery I won't upset any of the onboard computers. He said it would not be a problem and wouldn't hurt anything, so I went ahead and disconnected it. Pulled out the overhead console and disconnected the main harness. Checked the pin sizes and you were absolutely right on the terminals … needed the GT150 PN# 15304701 20ga terminals.

Crimped terminals on the Homelink wires with needlenose pliers and a dab of solder. Pulled the connector lock exposing the terminal bays, installed the terminals and pushed back the lock: Homelink orange to terminal #2 (switched ign.); Homelink green to #3 (accessory lighting); and spliced and soldered Homelink purple w/white tracer to #1 (negative grnd.). The ground is shared with overhead lights and passenger side airbag on/off.

The Homelink I used was sourced from a 1996-2005 Silverado/Sierra. This part fits into the overhead console as if it were made for it. The most difficult part of the whole project was Dremelling out the windows for the Homelink. I chopped up the Sierra facia to make a hard template for cutting my console for the Homelink buttons and one 3/32 hole for the Homelink communication light (the three buttons each have their own illumination (slightly different form '14 Suburban Homelink, but functions exactly the same.

Once installed, connected the battery, set the Homelink, garage door opens from a distance and everything checks out. The computers recognized the remote, remote start still works, all I had to do was reset the clock. Drove the truck round the block and no relearning issues. Started this at 1PM finished at 5PM. Took allot of time to carefully cut the holes, but installed the Homelink looks like factory.

Thanks to you Zebrafive … couldn't have gotten this done without all of your help. And just in case somebody else is nuts enough to want to go through all this work, I posted the pin/wiring diagram below. The whole deal with cost of the ebay Homelink (21.00), Mouser terminals (10.00) and Harbor Freight rotary tool (10.00) was $41.00 total.

[teddyv2]

Made mistake on last post. Colors aren't important but the terminal locations are … Homelink purple w/white tracer to #9 splice (negative grnd.), orange to terminal #10 (switched ign.); green to #11 (accessory lighting).

[teddyv2]

Both terminals fit connector 13516907, they are only different for different gauge wires. If you have 13513961 connector, that is a combination (uses both GT 150 series terminals AND GT 280 series terminals. You need the correct SERIES (GT 150 or GT 280) for the cavity you want to use.

 

You should be able to tell if your connector is all GT 150 terminals or combination GT 150 AND GT 280 series. I was guessing from your picture the connector.

 

 

My Homelink installation turned out fine. It's nice to be able to press the button on a console rather than the old remote that wasn't always efficient.

 

The next thing I wanted to do was add puddle lights. I thought I could simply order the parts and install them into the mirrors and plug them into the switch and I'd have them. But I'm finding that it's not that simple. The puddle lights seem to only be on mirrors that have power folding with indicators … the DL3 option. Are you aware of any other way that puddle light can be installed?

[Zebrafive]

My Homelink installation turned out fine. It's nice to be able to press the button on a console rather than the old remote that wasn't always efficient.

 

The next thing I wanted to do was add puddle lights. I thought I could simply order the parts and install them into the mirrors and plug them into the switch and I'd have them. But I'm finding that it's not that simple. The puddle lights seem to only be on mirrors that have power folding with indicators … the DL3 option. Are you aware of any other way that puddle light can be installed?

You should start a new topic regarding install of puddle light mirrors. I am guessing with out power fold mirror they will NOT work. Upgrade to power fold mirrors MAY require mirrors, switch(es) (driver, possibly passenger too), maybe wiring harnesses to switches. Then you still might need dealer programing? Sorry I do not have an answer.