Jump to content

mpg sudden drop


Recommended Posts

Posted

Over the last couple weeks I have been trying to figure out why my MPG has dropped on my 1996 chevy k1500 with 230,000 miles with 3.42 gears. At first I pawned it off as a bad tank of gas but 2 tanks later it didnt get better. I went from getting my usual 17-20 MPG to only getting 10-13mpg. It seemed to have happened more of suddenly. I have also noticed that my truck has had to turn over more than usual to start.

 

I have been watching my O2 sensors. the front ones seem to change pretty good from what I can tell, however I don't know how many miles are on them or if they have been replaced ever. the rear ones that measure the catalytic converter efficiency seem to be all over the place especially on bank 1. They will stay at a fairly constant high 65-70 for a little bit and then switch to a low number 9-18 and change back and forth between those numbers at a constant 2000 rpm.

I have also been watching my fuel trims. at idle it will reach -10 even after the truck has warmed up. as I start going down the road the trims get better but still stay around -5. the truck was idling at 800-1000 so i checked my coolant temperature and it was saying that my truck was only running at 179 degrees when it has a 195 thermostat. so I replaced the thermostat and it now runs at 193 degrees and idles around 650. but it still is running rich.

I did a compression check and got 140-145 on 4 cylinders I have not had the time quite yet to get to the other 4 but I will ASAP.
I havent noticed a real loss of power if I get on it, but I have noticed that where it used to go 65mph at 1700-1900 rpm it now takes 2100 rpm.

At Idle it does have a slight shake and as the rpms come back down from being reved its almost like it gets choked for a second.

I was questioning maybe my catalytic converters were the cause so I crawled under the truck and examined the o2 sensor wires. I also unbolted the exhaust and I could see one cat and it looked kind of a yellowish color and in a healthy honey come shape. I couldnt see the other cat but when I give it a good whack it sounds like something is loose inside almost like a powder nothing big or heavy sounding but there is something loose in there. I isolated the heat sheild the best that I could but I'm pretty positive its coming from inside the cat. I know that for more than 3/4 of the trucks life it was ran on 85 octane gas and didnt get a tune up untill it couldnt hardly run. After I did a tune up it was a beast.

I did get new tires recently however this issue did not start untill about 3 weeks after. I have also double checked the tire pressure.

the truck has:
new distributor shaft, cap, rotor, wires, platinum plugs.
clean k&n air filter.
new fuel filter
new fuel pump
new thermostat

I'm not really sure what direction to go from here. I want to replace the o2 sensors and cats but not if they arent bad.

Posted

A friend of mine mentioned that it sounded like I had a leaky injector. So I took all the black stuff off the throttle body and looked down in there with a flashlight. The lines that I could see looked wet and it smelt faintly of gas. There was also a couple wet spots on the bottom of the intake. I'm guessing that this is most of my problem.

 

The only thing that confuses me is that my truck doesn't miss or miss real bad and usually when I read about these spider injectors it usually talks about how the truck will miss and have other issues other than just running rich. Any thoughts? Iv never dealt wth the spider injectors but I know they have issues from what I understand. And that there is a new version that is much better.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 407 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...