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Take a look at my spec sheet and tell me what you think


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Posted

This spec sheet was from when I installed my newest lift a year and a half ago. The tech wrote "no more adjustment" I'm guessing to clarify for all 3 of the items that have to be checked

 

92b10d48d5e846a82ead582f33aca460.jpg

 

Reason I want someone to check it out is I'm doing a complete front end rebuild and upper ball joints are on the list. I bought two types. Regular moog joints and also adjustable moog joints. Just trying to determine which I should install.

 

Do I need any more camber or caster adjustment? I can go as much as 3 degrees on either or. Here is the adjustable ball joint in the UCA

 

a40aa387b82fd26ac85456829070ea33.jpg

 

Here are how the settings were previous to me removing it from the truck.

 

Forward passenger:

 

6766ef4fbd494fdec4281cd6eb558b08.jpg

 

Rear passenger:

 

fff1c611f5eff066146e596537aadc30.jpg

 

Forward driver:

 

02aa66d643ac4d97ce448c63b349f174.jpg

 

Rear driver:

 

8e1e032a8a9578fbf94637603a055fe3.jpg

 

I'm sure someone out there knows a lot more than I do so looking for opinions on which ball joint to officially go with. Thanks [emoji106]

Posted

Your camber looks good, caster should be higher though. Most likely can't adjust the caster any higher without throwing the camber out of spec.

Posted

Your camber looks good, caster should be higher though. Most likely can't adjust the caster any higher without throwing the camber out of spec.

I can split the difference and do 1.5 degrees each way like this (which is how I have it set currently for both UCA's)

 

aee7f062138cd855584035d8316d30d3.jpg

 

That groove is the direction the offset joint is facing. Thing that'd be okay? I can adjust it even on the truck I'm sure. Just not sure how many shops have actually ran into adjustable ball joints lol

Posted

You'll want to find a shop that is use to dealing with aftermarket parts and lifts.

 

1.5" each way should be perfect. Having low caster your wheels will be further back in the wheel well and possibly rub more on the wheel well liner/frame. Increasing it should fix that by rotating the spindle forward which help reduce bump steer.

Posted

If you find a good shop, you should be able to just take it to them and they will adjust the control arms to where they need to be at.

Posted

I'll give my mechanic a call over at a heavy fleet/ off road shop. He's pretty good and will know if they can do it.

 

Wouldn't rotating my spindle forward a little bit shorten the length of the tie rod toe?

Posted

Awesome. Thanks for the help! I'll keep this post updated once I finish the front end rebuild and get my other tranny in the truck and get it back on the road [emoji106]

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