Hozer's 2014 Sierra Audio Upgrades

[krdeal]

Ken - No, I don't have the Bose factory components. The 'amplifier bypass' harness version is what I used. That harness kit (Metra 70-2057) did include a second, smaller, harness which I did not use and so the other option may work but I played it safe and used the part numbers which others had already purchased and tested in their installs.

Thanks Dave. I was a little confused, as I have never used a factory head unit in my last few installs. I always had to use some sort of box and harness for the OnStar, chimes, etc.

[Jeff5347]

Once amplified, the aftermarket speakers sound GREAT.

 

I'm using a five channel JL Audio amp, the XD700/5v2. With the front door and dash speakers in parallel and single speakers in the (REAR)? door and the sub having dual 4 ohm coils in parallel, the effective RMS output is 2 x 100 W at 2ohm, 2 x 75 W at 4 ohm, and 1 x 300 W at 2 ohm.

 

Originally was using speaker level inputs (via RCA plugs) on the amplifier and using the signal sense turn on mode. That actually worked very well once adjusted.

 

My amplifier selection came down to a few criteria:

1) Clean output; I wasn't going to use a cheap and noisy amp.

2) Space considerations; modern Class D amps take up little space and give off little heat so I could stash one behind the rear seat.

3) Multiple outputs from the same amplifier; this reduced cost and space requirements.

4) Quality. Only brands with consistently good quality were considered: JL, Alpine, etc. PPI used to be great, possibly still are but they don't offer a 5 channel amp to fit my needs.

 

With the Cleansweep installed, I'm now using low level inputs on the amplifier and have it turning on using the remote wire from the Cleansweep.

 

Had I opted for the cleansweep from the start, I would have just used speaker wire (speed wire 9 conductor most likely) on the T harness for the head unit output. Instead, I used two sets of RCA cables and cut the plugs off one end and soldiered those to the T harness. The cleansweep has only dual wire inputs, not RCA plugs and so I bought two pair of RCA to speaker wire adapters and soldiered those to the Cleansweep harness and plug the other ends into my RCA cables that come from the head unit.

 

The Cleansweep does have RCA outputs and so a pair of 18" RCA cables were used to feed the amp now.

Hozer, what sub's, box (ported or sealed) brand are you using. I'm on the caraudio.com forum and as you stated years ago PPI was great. Since then not as great but it seems at that forum I guess it is still a very good and capable (clean, powerful, featureful) amp. So I bit the bullet and bought a i1000.4. Way more power than I'll need which is good and 2 ohm capable. Your system sounds like it must be amazing. Below is a pic I drew up of how I'm gonna run everything. But before that today while driving I faded the radio to the rear to see just what my pioneer 1602r's may sound like. I literally had the volume maxed and although still not loud I could tell once amped these things will sound good. Crisp, clean, nice highs and mids...just not loud unamped.

 

Back to the original question. I will be running pioneer 1730c components to my door. The mid obviously will be in the door. I will be running my speed wire from the metra connector back to my ppi then back up to the other metra connector and just let that take signals wherever they go. On the front speaker wires I will splice in my passive crossover so the factory fl and fr speaker will take signal to the doors and dash. The only spears not running of the factory speaker wire per say is the tweets. Since the components on their own are 4 ohms combined...once the dash speaker comes into play it will run in parallel to the mid and tweet effectively lowering ohms...which is fine since the PPI can do 2 ohms stable unbridged. My question is do you know the ohms of the dash speaker so I can get an idea of totals ohms being introduced to the amp. I know Bose runs weird ohms like 3 or 1 but curious if you knew the ohms of non Bose speakers. Phewwwe. (Takes deep breathe...)

 

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[Hozer]

Unfortunately, I've disposed of the factory speakers and I don't have a picture of the back of the unit to confirm the ohm rating. I'm thinking they were actually 8 ohm but I'm not positive.

 

The subwoofer is a JL Audio 12TW3-d4. http://www.jlaudio.com/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92185

I went the quick route and used the JL box & sub combo. http://www.jlaudio.com/cs112tg-tw3-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93303

 

The JL box happens to fit under the rear seat and was well worth $50 for the box, grill, carpet, etc.

 

I'm sure my system doesn't sound incredible, anyone going with a good quality aftermarket head unit instead of the factory unit would likely come out ahead but for what I was trying to accomplish and was prepared to spend, I'm very happy. There was no excuse for stock speakers popping on a 2014 vehicle with 5,000 miles and in which I'd never really tried to crank up.

[Jeff5347]

Yea I here ya mine sounds good as well just waiting on those speakers amp to come in. OK question. I received my 70-2057. You pinout of colors that are + & - to each speaker seems off from what is on this connector. Is that due to these being Bose connectors.

 

[GRN69CHV]

On the 8" Non-Bose (no factory amplifier other than what is built into the head unit)

 

This should clear it up for you. Yellow and yellow/black are hot /ground, green and orange set are not used. On female plug, pink, blue, red, purple are speakers. On male plug, white, gray,aqua and purple are speakers. When you line them up against the factory male plug it will make sense.

[Jeff5347]

Awesome. Yea non bose. I figured it had something to do not being correct cause of Bose. So you just cut the other unused ones to get rid of clutter. Once I dig in it will make sense but I looked at them now and was like wth

 

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[Hozer]

I'm pretty sure my next project will be to add sound deadener to the back side of the plastic components in the headliner. A few songs have just the right low end frequencies to get everything up top resonating and rattling.

[Jeff5347]

Don't get me wrong I like the 10 but coming from 2 12s in a good cu. Ft. Sealed box in a trunk. That was a pounder. Love the Silverado hate to bad space for a sub. I've been watching videos on building boxes. Soon I'm gonna try my hand at it and see if I can get my 12s in it. If not a good set of 10s. I so need my low bass that rattles your insides. I think I kinda jumped the gun on the jl 10 as I found a company that sells a box for 180 shipped fitting 2 12s with 1 cu. Ft. Of volume sealed. My sub's would fit and be right in that volume area. Live and learn. Now just waiting on my amp and wiring so I can install the speakers. This is what came today