Jump to content

Base S-10 4 banger advice

RyanbabZ71

Recommended Posts

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

Ok i am looking at getting a stripped down bare essentials (no air conditioning) S-10 for work since i dont want to beat up my Z71 in the mills.  

 

Any advice.  What did you pay?

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Yeah, buy a Toyota.

 

Hate to say it, but the resale is a lot better. No matter what the condition is.

 

I'm not bashing the S-10's, but for a bare bones ride...A Toyota just seems to be a better investment. :)

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
investment?  I have like $1000 in gm points plus i just graduated college plus all the incentives.  S-10 is much cheaper
Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

I was just looking at what you could get for it 5 years from now. After you have beat on it.

 

I like the S-10, and the incentives are great. But the 4 banger is weak, and resale sucks on them with the exception of the ZR2's.

 

If you save that much to begin with though, it would offset the lesser resale.

 

 

 

Just another thought...A guy that I work with just bought a kick-start GMC (bare bones 1/2 ton reg cab V6), and after rebates and incentives, he only paid around 13k. No GM points, and he got them to extend the warranty to 75k....That aint bad...even has carpet, auto, and AC.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wanna pay it off right off the bat.  Truck will only be driven highway and through a mill.  My dads truck is 12 yrs old and he has beaten it.  I dont care about resale because i would run it til it died or give it to my bro in a few yrs.  The S-10 is the best option

 

I know quite a few people with the 4 liter and its decent.  Would do its job

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Just giving my .02. :)

 

And go ahead! Fill up that driveway! I enjoy shuffling trucks to suit my daily driving choice. Just sucks when the weather starts getting nasty, you have to decide which one gets the garage....Yeah, my life is hard. :cheers:

 

I do like your thinking though. Having an extra vehicle (even a car) that is paid for, is good thing.

 

Just get ready for everyone you know to start asking to borrow it. "You aren't using it! Why not?"

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
they can use the S-10 if i get it but not the 00
RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Got a price from a local dealer.  MSRP is like 16K he is selling for 11,700 which includes the 3500 rebate.
RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i edited it.  I read the email wrong.  They only knocked off 890 the msrp and the selling price is 15,200 minus $3500 in rebates.
k1500chevy97 Senior Enthusiast

k1500chevy97

Posted
Posted

get that college rebate on there and you can get a base model half ton for about 13

 

 

The one ive got now cost the farm 14k and we only got a 500 dollar farm discount and 500 dollar customer loyalty

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what was the msrp?  

 

Id like another silverado however i would like to fit the new one in the garage if possible and a silverado wouldnt fit.  

 

I found one locally that is 20K arrival blue silverado.  They are listing them in the paper for like 14K.  Id also like to pay it off right away so id like something about 10K.  ALso i cant find anything without air conditioning  ???

chevy4x4trucks Senior Enthusiast

chevy4x4trucks

Posted
Posted

I had a Black 96 S-10 that I traded in on my silverado.  It was a 4 banger, 2wd, reg cab, short bed, only options were A/C and a cassette deck.  I think I paid 8 grand for it back in '99 and it had 30,000 miles on the clock.

 

I should find my pics and scan them.  I got the windows tinted and a flip-up sunroof installed and some vent-visors, bug-shield, and soft toneau cover.  It was nice... well, until I hit another growth spurt after High School and my knees were up against the dash :crackup:

 

Ryan, you may want to avoid the bucket seats.  I've driven a few w/ buckets and maybe it's just me, but they were obnoxiously high up, they were almost a pain to look around when backing up.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i am going with a bench (cheaper). Also id like one without air conditioning (its a 15 ride to and from work and i can roll the windows down)

 

Also I emailed a bunch of dealers and my uncle (who is a gmbuypower salesman at a local place) told me he can try and trade but there arent many out there and this is the last wk to order them however i need to take delivery before 6/2 which probably wont happen  :crackup:

 

We will see later this afternoon.  Since there will be no more S-10s i am sure they will wanna unload them  :wtf:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...