Jump to content

transmissin pan bolt

rtbrick

Recommended Posts

rtbrick Enthusiast

rtbrick

Posted
Posted
Did some maintenance today on my truck. Was going to change the transmission fluid, but decided to hold off when I could not get the drain plug out. To start with, a 15mm 12-point socket fit fine, but a 6 point seemed too big. 9/16 too small and 5/8 too big. The 12 point 15mm never got a good bite on the bolt and it tried to round off no matter what I did. Any thoughts or ideas on this problem? What kind of lock-tite does GM use anyways! I am going to go to the dealer next week and pick up a new bolt. Then I'll try an impact wrench to jam it off (which will probably ruin the bolt). I was absolutely PO'd this morning. I could have just dumped the pan off, but that's not the point. :)
Pewter Pro-Tec Enthusiast

Pewter Pro-Tec

Posted
Posted

rtbrick,

 

First of all, I don't want to offend anyone, but this is where you will notice a difference in the kind of tools you have access to. If I were you I would try and get a hold of a 15mm and a 14 mm Snap-On socket in 6 point configuration. If the head is already too damaged, you may have to tap the 14 mm socket on with a hammer.

 

If you have enough clearance, try and get the ratchet directly onto the socket, try not to use any long extensions, because you greatly increase the chances of the socket twisting off the bolt head.

 

If you cannot get access to Snap-On tools, try and find something that uses flank drive like Snap-on does. I know other tool makers use it already but I don't know which ones. When I say flank drive I mean that the walls of the socket are contacting the fastener head on the flat spot and not on the points. It's kind of hard to explain without a pic, sorry :)

 

As a last resort I would try and tap on any 14 mm 6-point socket, preferably short, and go from there.

cyclejerk Enthusiast

cyclejerk

Posted
Posted

Heat!,

Put some heat on it. Not flame but LECTRIC (electric). Take out your jumper cables and connect the pos to the pos of the battery and the other to the bolt head, just hold it there for a few moments, it will get the bolt hot and expand it, when it cools it should come rite out. Don't clamp the cable on the bolt, just hold it on there, (put on some gloves). It will not kill the battery unless you do this day in and day out. It is nothing more than a BIG load, (short).

My 2 cents :werd:

rtbrick Enthusiast

rtbrick

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I understand the flank drive-type sockets (though I did not know it was called flank). Snap-On is what I was using. I acutally tried to tap on the 9/16, but no luck. Didn't try the 14mm. I have access to a full garage on the military installation I am assigned to. Most all military posts/bases have large (well, sometimes small) auto craftshops for military members to use. Other than medical it is the benefit I value the most. You can do just about anything at these shops, some include a paint booth! Anyway, I am going to get a new bolt this week, change the fuid by dumping off the pan and then (with the pan off) use a torch to apply some heat. Thanks for the help.
Dihappy Enthusiast

Dihappy

Posted
Posted

Yo,

I had the same problem.

 

Had to grab one of those bolt/nut removers from Sears.

 

Not sure what theyre called, but they have sharp twisting edges that really bite.

 

Got mine off with one of those :)

 

Peace!

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Thanks a lot guys... :)

 

...Not to hijack the topic, but this is the first vehicle I have ever owned that had a drain plug on the tranny pan. They should have started that about 60 friggin years ago.

 

I wouldn't have known if it weren't for being here. (I went and looked this morning.)

 

Learn something new everyday.

:nono:

  • 3 weeks later...
Mark T Enthusiast

Mark T

Posted
Posted

That is some drain plug on the transmission.

Just got mine off by using the Sears strip tool mentioned above. (Thanks for that tip) :D

I have a good selection of quality tools and this drain plug is not a #15, #14, 9/16 or what ever you have. I was carefull from the get go and did everything not to strip it. Before I knew I would I used the sears tool.

To put it simple this plug is not one of GM best parts and it's a piece....

The plug head is tapered outward, narrow near the end and widder near the base. This makes several size tools feel like a fit but sloppy at best.

I'm thinking dealers have a specific tool for this or GM has just got a bad batch of poorly tooled drain plugs.

That plug has created a lot of grief to say the least.

  • 1 year later...
asepgrad98 Senior Enthusiast

asepgrad98

Posted
Posted

well i rounded off my trans drain plug today. The POS is smaller than a 15mm but a 14mm wont go on. Yes i used quality 6 point sockets. I was able to put enough torque on the bolt with a 15mm that it should have come loose if it wasnt way over tight. :thumbs::banghead:

silveradoreb Enthusiast

silveradoreb

Posted
Posted

I did the same thing, I need to use the Craftsman bolt out. They really need to make nicer bolts! :thumbs: I was pissed as hell when I stripped mine and was using snap-on mac and craftsman. Good luck to everone else

dr9672723 Enthusiast

dr9672723

Posted
Posted
I did the same thing, I need to use the Craftsman bolt out.  They really need to make nicer bolts! :thumbs:  I was pissed as hell when I stripped mine and was using snap-on mac and craftsman.  Good luck to everone else

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, someone is laughing at GM. Why did they bother if they weren't going to do it right anyway? :banghead:

budhayes3 Senior Enthusiast

budhayes3

Posted
Posted

At least you guys have a normal six point bolt head to deal with, mine is a torx! Talk about the worst design ever. The concave part of the fastener is never deep enough for the socket to get a good bite, so it strips or the socket twists. Put that together with 1 zillion foot pounds of torque and road salt/water/etc.

I did everything in my power to try and keep this from stripping...used a floor jack and a piece of wood as a third hand to keep the socket straight and as deep into the fastener as possible.

Long story short, I change my trans fluid the old fashioned way...remove all of the bolts except one side (can't remember if I used front or back), loosen the remaining bolts partially, and tilt pan to slowly drain and try to make as little mess as possible.

Not sure, but next trans fluid change, there may be a B&M deep aluminum pan in my future.

tmf6902 Senior Enthusiast

tmf6902

Posted
Posted
<font color='#000000'>Heat!,

Put some heat on it. Not flame but LECTRIC (electric). Take out your jumper cables and connect the pos to the pos of the battery and the other to the bolt head, just hold it there for a few moments, it will get the bolt hot and expand it, when it cools it should come rite out. Don't clamp the cable on the bolt, just hold it on there, (put on some gloves). It will not kill the battery unless you do this day in and day out. It is nothing more than a BIG load, (short).

My 2 cents :werd:</font>

 

 

 

 

 

holy sh*t, I would soooooooo hurt myself if I tried that..LMAO....I have tendancy to make easy=snafu

Greek Enthusiast

Greek

Posted
Posted
i couldnt get mine off so i used an impact wrench. came off fine but i got trans fluid everywhere.

 

 

 

I was never able to get mine off either. Stripped it when i tried to do a transmission filter change. worse than that I could not get the pan off either because of the transmission cable bracket next to the pan on my 2000 Z71. I had the dealer do a filter change. Yesterday I had a service center do a BG transmission flush and asked them to use their impact wrench to get it off and replace it. I like to do a flush and a filter change every 25-30K miles. Need to figure how to get those torx bolts off on the bracket so I :tear: can do the filter change myself.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...