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Self-regulated odometer on/off switch

dirkbarra

By dirkbarra
in Ask A GM Technician

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dirkbarra New Member

dirkbarra

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Due to some electrical issue which I can't seem to determine the cause of I now have a self-regulated odometer in my Suburban, here's how it works:

If my headlamp control switch is set to 'Auto' (which it is by default at startup), my DIC and Instrument Cluster are completely off. This results in all the gauges being dead including the odometer. The result is that my odometer will not record mileage while my headlamps are set to 'auto.'

If I switch from 'auto' to 'parking lamps' or 'headlamps' then my DIC and Instrument Cluster are immediately revived and all gauges begin to work perfectly.

I've also noticed that if I am in the 'auto' setting and I drive into a dark parking garage and my headlamps come on due to the darkness then my DIC and Instrument Cluster begin working again as well. I'm guessing this means the relay or fuse tied into the Ambient Light Sensor is also a part of this problem.

It would appear that I have accidentally stumbled upon a way to self-regulate the odometer in the Gen III Suburban. The big negative to this is that whenever the DIC and Instrument Cluster are working properly, the HVAC blows hot air only. Conversely, when the DIC and Instrument Cluster are not working, the HVAC works correctly and will blow correct air temperature according to its setting.

Has anyone else had a problem like this? I'm more mechanical than electrical but it would seem to be the problem must be in either the fuses, the relays or in the headlight control switch itself. I am leaning towards the relays simply because of the strange correlation with the HVAC system.

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Ground failures will do strange things like that. I see it alot around here with the roadsalt, mostly with turn signals. With a bad ground, the signal will flash dimly, along with either the headlights or tail lights in an alternating fashion.

 

If there's a short to ground on the instrument circuit, the same will happen - if you have 12v on both the + & -, it's like having no volts at all. Something switches, eliminates the short, and everything works again.

 

Not saying this is your exact problem, but that's how these things can happen. Got to get in there and do some testing. You'll need a GOOD wiring diagram too. Check everything visually first - lots of times you can get lucky and see a pinched wire, or something along those lines.

dirkbarra New Member

dirkbarra

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Thanks for the info. Would anyone happen to know where the ground wire for the BCM connects? I have a decent wiring diagram but when I follow the ground I can't seem to figure out where it terminates.

muddkatt Senior Enthusiast

muddkatt

Posted
Posted

Check ALL of the fuses and light bulbs. Had a 99 Suburban that had a blown fuse. It caused the interior lights to come on whenever I pushed in the cigarette lighter. :freak:

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