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Help, pinion nut and yoke replacent

hiking_mike

By hiking_mike
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hiking_mike Enthusiast

hiking_mike

Posted
Posted

Help, removed pinion and yoke. My marks were erased. Now I am trying to torque the pinion nut correctly. Axle is in truck. Doni simply keep tightening the nut until I get a reading of 20 to 25 inch pounds to rotate.

Questions, can I get an accurate rotational reading with axles installed.

Also, about how much foot pounds of torque does it normally take to properly seat pinion nut before any damage to the crush bearing

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

There won't be any damages to the crush sleeve, if over tighten it will just crush more and to I will need to buy another and try again. From what I seen you just tighten down little by little and keep checking with that tool until you have your correct preload.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

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IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

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hiking_mike Enthusiast

hiking_mike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The axle and diff are already assembled and on the truck.

i can get an inch pounds and check rotational torque resistance later tonight

 

I have a spare axle here and can do some checking-testing. IS this right, that it takes well over 100 foot pounds to be in the ball park of setting the preload.

 

I know this is not the recommended method,

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

Yea man I think it takes like 420 ft lb to crush the sleeve N start checking preload. You will know you're getting close when you grab the yoke N try to play with it and is not loose. That's when you start checking with the in" lb wrench, tighten some more, then check again. Repeat until factory spec preload is acquire

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

https://m.youtube.com/user/jorgerangel159

hiking_mike Enthusiast

hiking_mike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

420 foot pounds just sounds like a lot. The axle is allready assembled and in the truck. We had to swap a yoke and the pre revomal marks were lost.

I have a sparedonor parts axle and was experimenting with it.

Read 10 inch pounds for a used bearing assembly from All Datas and 20 inch for a new bearing.

Righ now, I am about 60 foot pounds and a reading of slightly over 10 inch pounds.

 

Any additional suggetions

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

If the nut is too loose, you will know the minute you decelerate from speed - the rear will HOWL like hell. Put your foot back in it, and it'll be dead silent. Too tight will do the opposite - howl under load. I'm going from memory from long ago, so I could have that backwards ...

 

Sounds like your pretty close now - could take it for a short ride and see what you've got for sounds. Hopefully none.

Edited by Jsdirt
Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

Are you using a new pinion nut? Pinion nuts are not reusable due to them being a self locking type nut. Usually they have a deformed end on one side of the nut. If you reuse the nut it will come loose after a while. Torque value is usually there to ensure the fastener is "stretched" enough to prevent it from coming loose. Since you are not getting anywhere close to deforming the threads with torque, they have to use another way to ensure it stays tight.

hiking_mike Enthusiast

hiking_mike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well some sort of closure. * I am not an ASE mechanic, but I work part time at a parts store for the past 12 years and am ASE certified as a parts specialist. I have worked on cars for years. I love body work and painting, and have worked in HVAC for a few years as well.

 

1. I went to a self pull salvage yard.

2. I tested about 14 different GM trucks pinion rotation resistance. All measured between 3 and 5 Inch pounds.

3. This was a mix of some rear ends with and with out axle shafts. - 2 had the complete differential removed.

4. I removed several pinion nuts, after marking the position. Then removed yoke and proceed to tighten the pinion nut to the exact position it came from.

5. A Lot of force was required to remove all nuts.

6. When tightening back, I noticed the resistance in foot pounds was minimal up to less then 3/4 to half a turn to place the nut back in the original position.

7. The foot pounds reached between 50 and 85 foot pounds to get back to the original position.

8. Every removal and replaced pinion nut made almost no difference in inch pounds to rotate.

 

Again, I know this is not the official recommended procedure and any incorrect setting of preload can cause bearing failure.

* I was replacing the rear axle on my sons truck. We did a 6 inch BDS lift. Installed 18 inch by 10 Moto Metal rims and Mickey Thompson 32 inch 10 ply tires. Now these guys weigh a lot. The truck had 3.42 gear ratio and the truck was struggling at highway speeds on any grade.

We swapped to 3.73 gears and the truck gets almost 3 more MPH, went from not being able to tow a 4,000 pound boat and trailer and get out of 2ed gear. to able to go down the highway at 65 ish and be in 4th gear ( using the tow-haul)

The donor truck was a 2007 GMC with JF7 brakes. We swapped wheel cylinders and had to swap the yoke. Otherwise we would have to play the GM U-Joint game. (my parts store computers have almost 120 different u-joint listed- we usually refer to the books, for it makes it easier to get the right u-joints).

Thanks everyone for their help.

I also bugged about every mechanic that I know of that works at a GM dealer.

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

I just winged my Grand Marquis rear end way back in the day. Thing continued on for another 40k miles before I sold it without a problem.

 

I didn't have an inch-pound torque wrench either - I just went by the amount of play in the yoke to how much force I was putting on the nut, & how many threads were sticking out of the nut. First try, I got the howl on decal. Went a little tighter or looser - can't remember now - without replacing the nut like the manual stated, and it was fine after that.

  • 3 years later...
Mark Hines New Member

Mark Hines

Posted
Posted

I have 92 Chevy van g10 I replace the rear pion seal my Mark's got erase. I put on but I only turn it one turn to loose I get bad vibrating  from the rear. I need to know how to tighten the pion nut before torque it down. I was told I dont know if it right 5 to 15 inch pounds how many turns before I put torque to it thank you mark

  • 3 years later...
  • 7 months later...
daisyfaust81 New Member

daisyfaust81

Posted
Posted

I have a 2010 Silverado 1500 4×4 crew cab lifted. Someone stole my driveshaft and broke the pinion yoke to the differential. I didn't know I had to torque anything and just changed it. I have a leak in the rear coming from I believe the pinion yoke. Drove fine for about ten miles now it won't go rpms go high when first accelerating. I have spent 800 dollars of money I ain't got. Single woman that tries to make ends meet Dailey. I start a new job Monday and my truck is still broke down. Not only did they take my driveshaft but they also slashed all my tires and took my tool box full of tools out the back of my truck. Can anyone tell me what I need to do. Thank u

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