Only one speaker works

Dixon700 · April 25, 2016

As in the title only one speaker works. My right door speaker. I believe it's all factory. Could the other 3 speakers be completely blown or head unit bad? What's the best way to test speakers and narrow down if I need speakers or a head unit or maybe both?

newdude · April 25, 2016

The two front ones are universal side to side. Take both panels off, swap the good speaker to the bad driver door one, then take your balance and fade and set them full to that front speaker. If it works, then you know you have a dead one. Speakers are pretty common on GMT-800, especially the driver's door.

Dixon700 · April 26, 2016

With 214,xxx I figured I'm probably going to find lots of little things worn out. I was more curious if speaker wires could be tested for voltage???

If I swap speakers and the others still don't work how would I narrow down if it's in the wiring or the head unit? Without tracing down all of the wiring that is.

cjb321 · April 27, 2016

could be broken wires in the loom that goes between the door itself and the cab. My left rear did that to me. You could do a continuity test if you have a meter. Just unplug the head unit and the speakers and the leads to the meter should be able to reach both ends.

HagiborChayil · May 4, 2016

continuity test is good. but do you have a factory amplified audio system? either bose or when you pull your radio is there a smaller 7ish pin harness with a pink wire in it? if it has either of those a continuity test wont do much good unless the car is running with volume low (say 1).

But a really common is rot in speakers and for the surround to disintegrate leaving the cone separated from the basket which leads to distortion and eventual mechanical failure... look at the speakers and see if they have separated that way..

if you have a meter test for ohms... each should read around 4 ohms... maybe 8... slight chance of 2 ohms.... if it isnt between 2 and 8 and is say 4000 ohms or just reads 'OL' then the voice coil is fried... but the speakers go bad easily and often. upgrading is easy and always worth it.

Dixon700 · May 8, 2016

continuity test is good. but do you have a factory amplified audio system? either bose or when you pull your radio is there a smaller 7ish pin harness with a pink wire in it? if it has either of those a continuity test wont do much good unless the car is running with volume low (say 1).

But a really common is rot in speakers and for the surround to disintegrate leaving the cone separated from the basket which leads to distortion and eventual mechanical failure... look at the speakers and see if they have separated that way..

if you have a meter test for ohms... each should read around 4 ohms... maybe 8... slight chance of 2 ohms.... if it isnt between 2 and 8 and is say 4000 ohms or just reads 'OL' then the voice coil is fried... but the speakers go bad easily and often. upgrading is easy and always worth it.

Are you saying remove plug from the speaker and check to resistance to the head unit with it on? I'm pretty sure that wouldn't get any good results. I was more seeing if there is any working voltage to the speakers so I wouldn't have to remove the head unit and unpleg the speaker and check each side individually. Across the speaker should be around 4 ohms. When I get a chance I'll remove the door panels and check the speakers. Also I have no idea on what system. Truck is an sle and appears to be 4 door speakers and a standard? Head unit.

HagiborChayil · May 9, 2016

not resistance to the head unit. resistance of the voice coil in the speaker. so plug one side of the meter to + and the other side to - and see what it reads with the system off. or unplug if you want.

checking continuity to the head unit is the way to test to see if the wires are split. or you can meter AC at the speaker to see if signal is being received by the speaker. continuity is more time consuming as it requires both radio and speaker to be unplugged. where as AC is tested right at the speaker leads in the door.