Jump to content

Bluetooth microphone grill/cover

tcase10
 Share

Recommended Posts

tcase10 Enthusiast

tcase10

Posted
Posted

2014 Silverado. I accidentally pulled off the cover. Now the microphone is loose and I can't put pressure on the back of the unit to snap the cover back in place. Any suggestions?

post-158839-0-07436900-1464709658_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-47414400-1464709659_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-07436900-1464709658_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-47414400-1464709659_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-07436900-1464709658_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-47414400-1464709659_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-07436900-1464709658_thumb.jpg

post-158839-0-47414400-1464709659_thumb.jpg

tcase10 Enthusiast

tcase10

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I pulled out my trusty tool - the fingernail. I got tired of people saying "What did you say", so I was probing and pulling to see if I could see the microphone and it just popped off. The good news is people hear me much better when I am stopped, but it rattles when moving.

mikemaat Enthusiast

mikemaat

Posted
Posted

Start pulling trim off so you can get your hand behind it. Its not very difficult to drop a headliner, especially if you just need to drop it enough to get a hand back there.

 

 

...be careful not to crease it.

  • Like 1
b1gted Enthusiast

b1gted

Posted
Posted

Start pulling trim off so you can get your hand behind it. Its not very difficult to drop a headliner, especially if you just need to drop it enough to get a hand back there.

 

 

...be careful not to crease it.

x2 on this. Gotta pull enough trim off that you can get a hand above the headliner.

tcase10 Enthusiast

tcase10

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As in the trim around the door? I'm not very handy when it comes to vehicles.

mikemaat Enthusiast

mikemaat

Posted
Posted (edited)

As in the trim around the door? I'm not very handy when it comes to vehicles.

 

I havent looked at the 2014-2016's but if its anything like the last few body styles you'll need to unbolt the holy $#!^ handle if you have one on the roof (there should be two bolts, probably 8 or 10mm under some small plastic covers) and probably a good idea to pull your A-Pillar trim (the plastic trim beside the windshield). If you have a holy $#!^ handle on the a-pillar trim, it will be bolted through the handle. If no trim, its probably just held in with plastic clips and can be pulled to remove.

Edited by mikemaat
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

This happened except one day when I was driving the grille popped off by itslef. I tried putting it back up there, but I couldn't and I ended up breaking the mic. Had to have my dealer replace it. They had to pull down the headliner.

cNate Enthusiast

cNate

Posted
Posted

Drop it off at the dealer and ask them to pop it back in. If you're within the 3yr/36k, then they should do it free of charge.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leander139 Enthusiast

Leander139

Posted
Posted

I did the same thing to my 2014, I just pulled off the overhead console and used one hand to push the pieces back together with a little super glue. I had pulled mine out because it looked loose and ended up having to solder the two wires back to the mic.

tcase10 Enthusiast

tcase10

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I brought it into the dealer today. I was about 1000 miles out of my warranty. They told me the charge would be .3-.5 hours labor, so I said go ahead. After about an hour the service tech came out and sad he was putting it together when he accidentally pulled the entire microphone out. They had to order a new microphone and will install tomorrow free of charge. Even though it was their fault (accident) they have treated me good. Thanks for all the input.

  • 4 years later...
  • 1 year later...
CarolineLoLeiva New Member

CarolineLoLeiva

Posted
Posted
On 5/31/2016 at 8:49 PM, Leander139 said:

I did the same thing to my 2014, I just pulled off the overhead console and used one hand to push the pieces back together with a little super glue. I had pulled mine out because it looked loose and ended up having to solder the two wires back to the mic.

How did you get it done. It happened to my truck as well and I have no idea how to fix it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Another JR · Posted

      I went to order some PF63 oil filters from an on line GM parts source, and the blue PF63 oil filters seem to be getting phased out. They show the new part number as 19363567, which is a black colored AC Delco Silver product apparently marked PF63A. Some sites show a part number 12693541, which is a black colored AC Delco Ultragard Gold filter marked UPF63R.    I assume the UPF63R is the better one, but I’d be happy if I could just get blue PF63 filters I’ve been using.    Can anyone explain what is going on with the filter part number changes and any actual design changes?  Any other advice on buying OEM filters right now?  Thanks 
    • davester
      HELP! DUMPING COOLANT

      By davester · Posted

      thanks for coming back and posting what the fix turned out to be.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Post your UOA, (used oil analysis) here

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Only TAN I have for the product was at 5K in service miles and it was 2.71
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      HELP! DUMPING COOLANT

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      If anyone lands here looking for an update - the problem wasnt with the hose, the clamp, etc... I purchased a metal Thermostat housing that just must not of been made to spec. It just wouldn't plug up the hose.. Went back to a plastic cheap housing - leak fixed. Some plumbers tape carefully placed in tandem with a clamp likely would've gotten the job done.   Best,
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      AUX switch install

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      For anyone following, this is what I have deduced from this forum - and my very specific niche case. Please do let me know if you see me going in the wrong direction here. For context, I have a 16 sierra 1500 w/t. Has TC and Cargo light switches. Removed the switch to find the X1 and X2 of the S48A connection populated with wires (x1 10-14, and x2 1-5).   Took photos of the X61A-X5 to find the wires from S48A-X1 land here at their respective pins (10, 11, 17, 23 on the X5). Was hopeful that this means my X51A fuse box has the appropriate pins... No cigar. So now I will be routing wires from the rear of the X61A-X1 to the engine bay and to their respective negative relay triggers. Please see to the diagram. If any has insight as to where the S48A-X2 pins 4 and 5 land that would be awesome.   Will be attempting this sometime shortly and will likely make a youtube video out of it.   Note: please disregard fuse sizes. Main fuse will likely be 25A, all mini bus fuses will likely be 10-15A.   Here is my parts list: GM 84347199 - TC, Cargo Light, Exhaust Brake (useless to me unless I find a means to reconfigure), Aux 1 - 4. 12V 6 Way Pre-Wired Fuse Relay Box Kit with 4 x 40A 4-Pin Relays (link below - some mods required to make negative trigger)            https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0F4KCS43B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Various wire sizes (12 AWG - red and black, 14 AWG, 16 AWG multi-colored bundle) Wire termination leads for X61A-X1 (unknown at this time) Crimp connectors/Soldering Gun Heat Shrink Split Wire Loom To be continued...    Cheers

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...