Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I've got a 2016 CC LTZ short box and no matter what trailer I pull i have no drivers side turn signal or brake light. I even rewired my trailer (and my buddy hooked up his truck to it and it works fine) and have pulled my buddies boat( didn't work on mine). Still doesn't work. I am bringing it in to the dealership on Monday. But just was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue?
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you figure the problem I have the same issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
I have a 16 Silverado with the same problem there are 2 relays in the circuit board that controls each side for the brake and turn signal under the fuse box that if the fuse don't blow it will burn the relay up I just changed the whole fuse box out cost me $232 and about 10 minutes and I got mine working again. Chevrolet has a bulletin out about using cheap fuses causing a lot of trouble. If I can help with pictures message me. Also my camper had a short I used a cheap fuse and that's what took mine out.

Yes please help out with pictures I’m having the same issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

Easiest way to see if the relay is burnt out is to cut the switch on without starting your truck flip the turn signal to either left or right pop the hood and in the fuse block you should be able to hear the relay clicking if you don't that's more than likely your problem. If you look close above the 2 10 amp fuses the fuse for one of the turn signal is melted

IMG_20200101_193354352.jpg

Edited by Michael04
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

 Jimmyjam, did you ever figure the problem out?

I've got the same issue lately and I think it's the fuse too.

Pain in the butt though.

 

  • 9 months later...
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado and bought a boat and the trailer lights werent working.  I got the left blinker/brake working and found the issue was the ground, once I cleaned the mounting area the blinker and brake started working.  This is where I made my mistake, as the blinker was still blinking I was getting all my other wires fastened, I touched one of the wires to the trailer and it shorted  both the blinker and brake lights on the left side.

 

I bought all new lights and wiring as they were mismatched anyhow and rewired the trailer, when I tested still no blinker or brake on left side.  After checking everything, I found out about the trailer FUSE which when I checked it was blown.  I ordered fuses last night and replaced FUSE 14 which is for the trailer left turn and brake, tested again and no change, still no left turn or brake.  

 

All lights on Right side work and running lights on left side.  I also grounded to trailer with jumper cables just to make sure that was not the issue.  What can I do next to get my issue resolved?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Having the same issue on my 2017 Denali 2500HD. Tried turning the auto lights off and turning on manually but that didn't work. Currently only the right trailer turn signal does not work. Checked the fuse and it's good. Tested for voltage at the fuse and nothing. Turning on the left turn signal I can hear a click like a relay is being engaged and disengaged as the light blinks but do not hear that when the right signal is on. Thinking it's the 'engine compartment fuse block'. No signs of melting though. Thankfully I have an extended warranty and that is covered. Will post once I have it diagnosed and fixed. Will be a few weeks.

Posted
4 hours ago, Tech Junky said:

Having the same issue on my 2017 Denali 2500HD. Tried turning the auto lights off and turning on manually but that didn't work. Currently only the right trailer turn signal does not work. Checked the fuse and it's good. Tested for voltage at the fuse and nothing. Turning on the left turn signal I can hear a click like a relay is being engaged and disengaged as the light blinks but do not hear that when the right signal is on. Thinking it's the 'engine compartment fuse block'. No signs of melting though. Thankfully I have an extended warranty and that is covered. Will post once I have it diagnosed and fixed. Will be a few weeks.

Have you metered out the receptacle on the truck?  Or get a receptacle tester.  If the receptacle works as advertised, then it's the trailer.

 

Amazon.com: CURT 58270 7-Pin RV Blade Trailer Wiring Towing Vehicle Socket  Tester: Automotive

 

Four-Way Trailer Light Tester

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 5/10/2019 at 9:32 AM, Michael04 said:

I have a 16 Silverado with the same problem there are 2 relays in the circuit board that controls each side for the brake and turn signal under the fuse box that if the fuse don't blow it will burn the relay up I just changed the whole fuse box out cost me $232 and about 10 minutes and I got mine working again. Chevrolet has a bulletin out about using cheap fuses causing a lot of trouble. If I can help with pictures message me. Also my camper had a short I used a cheap fuse and that's what took mine out.

 

  • 3 years later...
Posted
On 4/26/2021 at 3:02 PM, Tech Junky said:

Having the same issue on my 2017 Denali 2500HD. Tried turning the auto lights off and turning on manually but that didn't work. Currently only the right trailer turn signal does not work. Checked the fuse and it's good. Tested for voltage at the fuse and nothing. Turning on the left turn signal I can hear a click like a relay is being engaged and disengaged as the light blinks but do not hear that when the right signal is on. Thinking it's the 'engine compartment fuse block'. No signs of melting though. Thankfully I have an extended warranty and that is covered. Will post once I have it diagnosed and fixed. Will be a few weeks.

💀*dies waiting for the warranty diagnosis and fix*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,982
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    nolankd
    Newest Member
    nolankd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 460 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account?  Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390  
    • Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...